Stuck front pulley - how can I get it off the shaft?

[1989hawk]

I have the red dust on front pulley. 2015 RT. I have done the same job before on my F3S with no problems using a small puller. I have been unable to get this one off using penetrating oil and puller. It keeps breaking a piece off of sprocket. Any suggestions?

[Isopedella]

I just did mine.
First I sprayed it with 3 in 1 with a tube attached to the nozzle.
I sprayed down the channels about a doz times over a few days.
Borrowed a puller from a mate.
Fitted another bolt which was a bit longer and wound it all the way in on the threads.
I put some tension on.

Didn't wind the hell out of it. Just loaded it up.

Then tapped around the clock on the sprocket.
I used a small brass faced hammer.

After 3 wind ups and tapping it came right off.

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[Mikey]

If the above didn't work, I would load the puller up like he said, and I would heat the pulley lightly with a torch that will make it pop!! But I would think some good penetrating oil and a couple days to soak would work also! But I have been using torches since I was in high school, and that's been a long time, so I would have that off by now!!!

[1989hawk]

Finally gave it up and broke loose. Thanks guys.

[RICZ]

I saw a video of a comparison of several penetrating oils and Liquid Wrench came out on top of all the other aerosols. One beat Liquid Wrench by a long shot....a homemade consisting of half transmission fluid and half acetone.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I saw a video of a comparison of several penetrating oils and Liquid Wrench came out on top of all the other aerosols. One beat Liquid Wrench by a long shot....a homemade consisting of half transmission fluid and half acetone.

I have been using " Liquid Wrench " for about 60 years. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay before " spray cans " it came in a metal " Squeeze container ". This has to be one of the thinnest liquids ever created. ..... It works similar to what Solder does after applying a " sweating paste " to the surface of the pipe. ... When heated it will draw in the solder ..... good luck ... Mike

[Knizar]

I have been using " Liquid Wrench " for or 60 years. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay before " spray cans " it came in a metal " Squeeze container ". This has to be one of the thinnest liquids ever created. ..... It works similar to what Solder does after applying a " sweating paste " to the surface of the pipe. ... When heated it will draw in the solder ..... good luck ... Mike

60 years ago, Mike, you have a hell of a memory. That reminds me of a traveling salesman peddling a penetrating oil back in the early 1960's, he told my old man that his product would go right through the pours of steel! My old man said, " HOW DO YOU KEEP IT IN THE CAN !!! That sent him packing...........Bill

[EdMat]

I have been using " Liquid Wrench " for or 60 years. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay before " spray cans " it came in a metal " Squeeze container ". This has to be one of the thinnest liquids ever created. ..... It works similar to what Solder does after applying a " sweating paste " to the surface of the pipe. ... When heated it will draw in the solder ..... good luck ... Mike

Still remember the smell from the first time 60+ years ago. I liked it.

[FrogmanDave]

PB Blaster for me.

[RICZ]

PB Blaster for me.

I said the same thing until I saw the comparison video. Liquid Wrench IS better.

[FrogmanDave]

I said the same thing until I saw the comparison video. Liquid Wrench IS better.

I can post several videos that say PB Blaster is better. It really doesn't matter. They both work fine. If you noticed I didn't say anything about 'your choice', I just posted mine. The tranny fluid works best but something in a can is more convenient.

Edit: OK I went to my go to source as far as comparison videos go. Project Farm. He discovered that Liquid Wrench actually did a far better job and even beat the tranny fluid. I take back what I said. I have both lubricants in my can stand. I'll use the Liquid Wrench in the future. My original recommendation came from two mechanic friends, one diesel and one car, and they both swear by PB Blaster and that is what I usually use. I'm never too old to learn new tricks!

[RICZ]

FrogmanDave....I had a food machinery repair biz for over 40 years and had to deal with corrosion caused by beach, electrolysis, cold rooms and a combination of the three. I was mobile and worked on site, so no overnight penetrating oil soaks. When PB Blaster came out, I gave it a go and it worked better than what I was previously using. Then YouTube came along and I saw a test with a strip of metal with a row of similar bolts and nuts in it and rusted to the gills. He applied a different penetrant to each fastener, gave them equal soak time, then applied a torque wrench to each in turn. The top ones, that took the least torque, were PB, LW and tranny/actone, with the best one last.
The LW worked better for what I was dealing with. Maybe differing applications benefit from various penetrants. So you and I are both right - it's what works best for your job.
At ease, carry on, smoke 'em if you got 'em.

[OldAge]

You're right about the can, Mike. In fact I still have one on a shelf somewhere. Spray just works better in hard to reach spots.

[Isopedella]

For that job I grabbed my can off the shelf as it was the only one with that applicator nozzle.
I wasn't that concerned as long as it was a penetrating oil. Gave it repeated squirts over time down each valley in the shaft.
I do have the old school oil can with a pump but it was not the best choice for the job I was doing, that being the front pulley removal.
I didn't even attempt to pull it until the next day. Popped off with minimal pressure and a little tapping with the brass faced hammer.