Had all the oil drained and safely off to the side. Not too much of a mess. Put on the new gaskets and o-rings. Installed the new oil filter and then went to re-install the 6 mm drain plug. Over-torqued it and snapped the head off. Ouch. And this was not my first DIY oil change.
Attempting to drill out and replace the plug is not a DIY option for me. The only question I have for all of you, BEFORE I put any fresh oil back into the Spyder is this..... do I just get it towed to the dealer with no oil in it, or put in the oil and see if I have a major leak at the magnetic drain plug. And if things look good, drive it to the dealer. Thanks for your ideas.
UPDATE: What little oil didn't drain out is, unsurprisingly, leaking by the headless bolt. So it's definitely a tow to CanAm. I don't have enough clearance under the bike to attempt a punch and bolt extractor operation.
Last edited by scorpion56; 03-20-2022 at 12:16 PM.
2019 Can Am F3 Limited
Spyder Upgrades/mods:
F4 Windscreen,
Ultimate seat and Driver's backrest,
Lamonster Fog lights,
Lamonster Brake Rod kit,
CanAm Short Reach Handlebar
Other Current Bike: 2009 Honda Shadow 750 Aero
Past Bikes:
2018 BMW C650CT
2013 BMW C650GT
2011 Honda SH150i
My personal paranoia would have have it trailered to the dealer. But it only costs you the oil to check. So from there your paranoia will take over. Sorry about the mishap . Good luck with your repairs.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
Don't torque oil drain plugs. Never torque them in an aluminum case. Torque values are for clean, dry threads. Oil drain plugs are never clean and dry. Lubrication on the threads cause you to over-torque them. Just snug them up with a shorty ratchet. If they drip a little bit, it is much easier to put another quarter turn on them than to try to get a broken plug out. I don't know why they even publish the drain plug torque values.
Happened to me on my 998 2013 RT-S. I was able use a punch to tap remaining part loose enough to screw it out. Now use: Show Chrome (998 MOTOR) M14 X 1.5 / M12 X 1.5 MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUGS
Busting in here, this reminded me that even my shop manual did not provide me the torque for the front shock bolts. Can anyone here tell me? 2017 F3L.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
I beg your pardon. Do a search on broken OEM clutch cover drain plug (see picture) and see what you get for the eight plus years the plug has been in use. The plug isn't cheap and the problem isn't on the plug end.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
I beg your pardon. Do a search on broken OEM clutch cover drain plug (see picture) and see what you get for the eight plus years the plug has been in use. The plug isn't cheap and the problem isn't on the plug end.
Thank you , I didn't have the guts to say it .... Mike
Busting in here, this reminded me that even my shop manual did not provide me the torque for the front shock bolts. Can anyone here tell me? 2017 F3L.
Ric, on my ‘21 RT the shock bolts torque is listed as -
48 +/- 6n*m
35 +/- 4 lbf*ft
(With “NEW” nuts)
I’m not sure if the same holds true on your ‘17 F3 though…..but that info was on the first page of Front Suspension in my workshop manual, in the diagram.
Sorry to hijack your thread Scorpion, but it should be a short hijack
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
The plug isn't cheap and the problem isn't on the plug end.
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Thank you , I didn't have the guts to say it .... Mike
Jaybros, you're so right......the problem wasn't on the plug end! At least not in my case.
Unfortunately, I had this happen to me when I did my 1st oil change. Couldn't believe I had actually screwed this up using a small torque wrench. All my years changing oils on my vehicles and never a problem, and here my 1st Oil change on my Spyder, and I break off the Transmission Head plug. UGH!
Thankfully, I have a set of Easy Outs, and that took care of the problem. Just had to order a new plug. NEVER EVER again will I ever torque those 2 drain plugs.
It only took one time to be taught a valuable lesson. I say, I got pretty lucky. Now after completing 3 oil changes, I am GOOD!
Am glad you got your problem solved. A suggestion, if you're not going to use a torque wrench be certain to change the copper washer on the clutch cover plug and the aluminum one on the crankcase plug each time you do an oil change. That will ensure you get a leakproof seal every time.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
And on top of that, clean the treads, after the oil drained
the funniest thing about this particular signature is that by the time you realise it doesn't say anything it's to late to stop reading it........
Spyder F3s 2019 All Black ( Named it: Brutus)
Carbon Items added, just for looks
Upgraded Shocks Trac-Tive, Rear hi/lo and rebound adjustable, with Hydraulic Pre-Load adjuster
fronts hi/lo and rebound adjustable, custom made by the Trac-Tive Guru's
Swaybar (Ron's)
Tyres Front Michelin Cross Climate+ 175/60-15
Rear, for 2022 still a Kenda, next Yokohama Advan Fleva 205/55R15
Exhaust Bone stock, with a RLS Cat- Delete
Custom ECU-Mapping, rewritten/adapted to my Ridingstyle
Pedalbox, Awesome Upgrade...
I beg your pardon. Do a search on broken OEM clutch cover drain plug (see picture) and see what you get for the eight plus years the plug has been in use. The plug isn't cheap and the problem isn't on the plug end.
I'm not sure I understand what the clutch drain plug has to do with the oil drain plug. Can you please explain?
2022 Petrol Metallic RT Limited / 'PYDER'
Peter Pan has struck again!
I'm not sure I understand what the clutch drain plug has to do with the oil drain plug. Can you please explain?
The 1330 engine has TWO oil drain plugs .. One for the engine, and the other for the transmission .. He may be referring to the plug closest to the Clutch cover ..... JMHO .... Mike
Yes, if you look at the parts diagrams the plug that many folks refer to as the transmission drain plug is actually in the clutch cover fiche. That fiche is also where one finds the hydraulic control module filter, aka transmission filter.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
Snapped the magnetic oil drain plug!
F3 Limited
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Originally Posted by K80Shooter
. Good luck with your repairs.
