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  1. #26
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtlister View Post
    I am considering that. But do you not have an issue with the psi dropping (during a ride... not just over a period of weeks)? Thanks for your reply
    It’s not an issue. When you go all manual, like Mikey and I are referring to, you disable the system electrically, and just run the tubing directly from the airbag to the Schrader valve under the seat. So, unless the airbag itself has a leak, something that would need addressed regardless, then you barely lose any air at all. Most times, the leakage is from other fittings or the compressor check valve. You bypass all of that. Right now, mine has been sitting since November and still has plenty of air. I usually just top it off once a month during the season.


    Doug

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  2. #27
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder View Post
    It’s not an issue. When you go all manual, like Mikey and I are referring to, you disable the system electrically, and just run the tubing directly from the airbag to the Schrader valve under the seat. So, unless the airbag itself has a leak, something that would need addressed regardless, then you barely lose any air at all. Most times, the leakage is from other fittings or the compressor check valve. You bypass all of that. Right now, mine has been sitting since November and still has plenty of air. I usually just top it off once a month during the season.
    Did the same thing. Manual fill and pressure stays for weeks at a time. Just air it up a few pounds when my wife and gear and in the saddle bags. Dump valve and swivel connector are the leaks and both are replaced by a single line ( No leaks )

    Lew L
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
    2014 RTS , Circuit Yellow

  3. #28
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    I also have a 2014 RT with a bad compressor. I bypassed the systems and installed the Elka rear shock. I would recommend this fix. The ride is great with one or two riders and no worries about the air ride system.
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  4. #29
    Active Member teninospyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    I would just gut the compressor and go manual fill, has worked for me with no problems!! That system is fine when it's working the way it should, but when it decides to poop out on you will be dead to the frame for the most part, because the shock they have in there is pretty much useless also! If you hook the bag direct to your Schrader and start at around 50lbs of air and adjust from there up or down, you will have a good ride, and it will not cost you more than a couple hours of wrench time if that!! I can only think of one time I EVER adjusted my system while it worked, so when my compressor pooped out in the middle of a 300-mile day and I got home pounding on the frame, it was a no brainer which direction I would go!!! Good luck if you need some subport PM me!!
    I converted to using the shrader valve fill process on our 2014 RTL after my 2nd system failure in 2 years, a long time ago, and have never looked back. As I recall, just unplugging the powr to the compressor was all that was required to take the pump out of the system.
    We always ride 2 up and I check for 70 PSI in the system whenever my other half " thinks" she feels a bottoming out on a ride or I can push the rear cargo box down by hand and notice it moving. Actually not that often, maybe once or twice a season, depending on roads mainly.
    Just my (our) experience.
    Ray & Marci
    Tenino, WA
    2014RTL Cognac
    ALWAYS ride 2 up.

  5. #30
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Wasn't there a thread on here about one member who took his compressor apart and found the problem and fixed it? It seemed like it was something simple. I may be having an Huluciation as I can't find it,does anybody else remember such a discussion? Seems like the rod had become disconnected from the piston.

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    Paul

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  6. #31
    Active Member redrazor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtlister View Post
    I have a 2014 RT. The original air compressor was replaced under warranty 3 yrs ago... now the new one (from 3 yrs ago) is making lots of noise and runs often. I know how to replace it...I tried an after market one from Viair... but that didn't work out at all. The lowest price I have found on an air compressor from CanAm is $390 + tax and shipping. Does anyone know where I can get the right compressor for less than that? (The Viair was under $100 bucks). Thanks
    This one has saved me a lot of trouble a few times. One of the Best out there for the money!$! Check it out.

    https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/e...ght/p/12700020
    2014 RTL bought in 3/20 with only 6,000 mi.
    Came with Garmin 660
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  7. #32
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    The compressor design changed around 2013. Another note is that alot of these compressors fail is the one way valve gets dirty and does not seal correctly, causing the compressor to just wear out. That was my issue. Also if you just remove power from the compressor, you still will lose air from the bleed off actuator. Bruce
    New to Sue and I
    2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
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    RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles


  8. #33
    Active Member teninospyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by safecracker View Post
    The compressor design changed around 2013. Another note is that alot of these compressors fail is the one way valve gets dirty and does not seal correctly, causing the compressor to just wear out. That was my issue. Also if you just remove power from the compressor, you still will lose air from the bleed off actuator. Bruce
    Hmmmm....not sure why mine works fine after just removing the power to the compressor and then filling thru shrader valve as needed.
    Ray & Marci
    Tenino, WA
    2014RTL Cognac
    ALWAYS ride 2 up.

  9. #34
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teninospyder View Post
    Hmmmm....not sure why mine works fine after just removing the power to the compressor and then filling thru shrader valve as needed.
    It's probably cos it was only your compressor itself that was doing the wrong thing.

    The ACS is a fairly involved system - there's a bunch of press fit air line fittings, the compressor, the air bag itself, the fill/release valve, the schraeder valve, & an elbow fitting involved in the ACS; and besides a blown air hose, it could be any one or more of those that's leaking!

    So whether your system will need the air line run direct or not depends a whole lot upon which bit is actually doing the leaking.... some are lucky & can get away with leaving the whole system standard, just remove power to the compressor, & still find it holds air; others (or possibly most?) aren't so lucky & find they need to bypass the fill/release valve &/or the compressor or it'll still leak down; and a few find their leak is either in the air line fitting on the top of bag, or it's a pinhole leak in the bottom of the bag! What it actually is can be just the luck of the draw!

    The ACS is a Great concept, just not so great in the execution!
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

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