Stripped oil drain hole! Any thoughts?

[n8dogg]

I can't believe it, I've never striped a plug hole before In preparation of the oil change, I looked up the torque values for the plug and am well aware of the soft nature of aluminum it was being threaded into. I did buy the Ryker slightly used so I'm blaming the previous owner! Anyways, looking for any tips and tricks. It's the secondary drain. Doesn't look like there's a lot of room there to mess around. The current plug is 8m and its a bit of a jump to drill and tap for a 10m plug, but that's what I'm leaning towards. Any thoughts?

[Gwolf]

Helicoil?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Helicoil?

Well about 10 years ago a ( former ) member took the advice and used a " helicoil " ....it blew out while He was riding By the time He discovered it He had lunched His V-twin engine ..... This is all I remember, could He have NOT put the COIL in correctly .... anything is possible ..... good luck .... Mike

[larryd]

I'm not sure what the drain plug looks like on your Ryker...But if its just a "simple" plug, You can probably take it to a auto supply store and they should have self tapping oversize plugs...larryd

[Valkrocket]

I'm not sure what the drain plug looks like on your Ryker...But if its just a "simple" plug, You can probably take it to a auto supply store and they should have self tapping oversize plugs...larryd

Or try here. https://www.americanfastener.com/self-tapping-screws/

[Piratezz]

Is there still thread? If so, maybe some teflon tape will do the trick, that stuff is oil resistant and used in a wide variety of places to stop leaks.

[Little Blue]

Or try here. www.americanfastener.com/self-tapping-screws/

This Link will not work. Not Sure Why? ....

Link is good to go now. ..... : )

[Piratezz]

Thanks for the edit, Peter.... English is not my native language

[spyder01]

As a former shop owner I think a properly installed helicoil would be the answer. The problem is that installing a helicoil correctly is a little tricky imho and should be done by someone who has done hundreds. There are other types of quick fix type plugs available and I have tried most of them and would not recommend any of them.

[gkamer]

This Link will not work. Not Sure Why? ....

Worked for me. I use the Chrome browser, but sometimes links don't for with it so I swap over the Windows browser.

[Peter Aawen]

Worked for me. I use the Chrome browser, but sometimes links don't for with it so I swap over the Windows browser.

As noted in the 'last edit by...' note at the bottom of those posts with the link in them, I fixed the link a few hours before your post gkamer.

Thanks for the edit, Peter.... English is not my native language

No worries Piratezz, what you had would've been fine if spoken out loud, only just a little confusing cos it was written - and I was in here fixing that link anyway, so it seemed like the right thing to do... your suggestion's a good one too, if there's any thread left!

[fatboy]

Jb weld on the plug and dont worrie about that little bit of oil

[n8dogg]

Wow, thanks for all the replies! There is still some threads...it held and only leaked once the oil warmed up and thinned out a little. Maybe Teflon tape would be all it takes to stop leaking? I will look into that helicoil too, I've heard that suggested a lot. Got to see how big the hole needs to be to install the helicoil...if it's as big as the hole needed to tap for a bigger drain plug, I'll likely just consider the bigger drain plug over the helicoil.

***edit** I just remembered something that will rule out the helicoil. While inspecting the secondary plug location, I noticed the hole doesn't open up into an oil sump. Instead it has an oil passage that goes through it. (seamed wierd to me) Installing a helicoil would block that passage and would not allow the oil in that passage to drain out in future oil changes.

[Gwolf]

It is not going to help with the threads already stripped, but I would suggest never torquing a drain plug ...... an especially not one in an aluminum pan. Torque values are for clean dry threads. Oil drain holes are almost impossible to get clean and dry. The residual oil on the threads lubricates them and allows the plug to be over-tightened. I never torque any drain plugs. I just put them in snug with a shorty ratchet handle. I don't use the solid metal sealing washers either. I use a metal and fiber sandwich washer to seal the and stop leaks. You can find them of the proper size for most any vehicle.

https://www.amazon.com/AUTOHAUX-Bron...ps%2C76&sr=8-3

If the teflon tape will not stop the leaks, these washers might even stop the leaks on a stripped plug.

If you are concerned that it is not factory parts, remember that a stripped plug is also not factory approved.

[n8dogg]

If you are concerned that it is not factory parts, remember that a stripped plug is also not factory approved.

Thanks, way to put things in perspective!

[Excelsior]

Once you have it repaired, switch to this method...

Mityvac 7201 Manual Fluid Evacuator - find it on Amazon

[Peter Aawen]

Once you have it repaired, switch to this method...

Mityvac 7201 Manual Fluid Evacuator - find it on Amazon

Sucking the oil out thru the dipstick tube is probably not such a useful concept if you really want to properly change the oil on a dry sumped motor like those our Spyders have.... possibly it's even questionable on a full-sump motor too, unless you know that the pick-up gets down into the deepest part of the sump & sucks all the dirty dregs out as well as the easy to remove cleaner stuff... But as always, it is your machine, so it's your choice!?!

[spyder01]

Just for fun I used my boat oil changer to suck the oil out the dipstick and found that it left about 1 to 2 qts in the sumps.

[safecracker]

I stripped out my oil drain plug on my Outlander (atv). I went to a SAE size, slightly larger. Got the correct drill and tap. Works like a champ. Bolt I am using does not have a magnet.

[Joel The Biker]