Well i didn't expect that

[Rider Steve]

The RTL sure does ride like crap in the twisty's. Lot of bragging going on with the Bajaron sway bar and he makes adjustable spacers for the front shocks as well. New expensive shocks are out of the question for me (wowsa on the price of those things). Best I just ride for now and figure out what needs fixed through warranty first then get into the upgrades. Very smooth ride on bumpy roads, don't wanna lose that. I'm just rambling and doing my homework...

[RICZ]

Give yourself time Steve. There is a learning curve. When I was starting out, an experienced Spyder rider told me that I wouldn't feel comfortable until I racked up 1K miles. Then I wouldn't feel I had good control for an additional 1K miles. He was spot on.
Bajaron gave me great advice too; After that 2+K miles, do one upgrade at a time, so I will know what each one does for the bike. He also was right.
The thing that's working the most against you are the OEM tires. Car tires make light years of improvement in the handling department.

[shardt]

Yeah, get some miles under your belt before you do anything. When I first started it felt very squirrely but as I rode more the more I learned the sensitivity of the steering and learned how to handle the corners.

[Knizar]

Like RICZ said, and give it some time. "Where is the Fire?" you will get on to it with time, I never try to make work out of riding my spyder, if I wanted to work I'd stay home and work on the yard! But I'm 70 yrs and not many listen to me., Bill

[RICZ]

I never try to make work out of riding my spyder, if I wanted to work I'd stay home and work on the yard! But I'm 70 yrs and not many listen to me., Bill

I'm 85 and enjoy the "work" of riding our Spyder, especially in the twisties. I know it's great exercise, because at the end of the day, my leg and arm muscles hurt so good.

[Pooch]

I lowered the air pressure in the front tires to 18 cold to start on my 2021 RTLtd. …improved the handling tremendously here in the twisty Texas Hill Country.
I have just over 5000 miles on the odo now with no complaints. But when the OEM Kenda tires wear out I will put on a set of tires that so many out here recommend.
I have also found that it helps to keep looking ahead as far as possible in the twisties rather than at the immediate curve…seems like the beast naturally follows the curve this way rather than me wrestling it to obey..

[Rider Steve]

All great posts but when I do an upgrade the first one will probably be the riser kit, I know I'm pushing on the bars and the best way to steer this ride is with as little pressure as possible (very light steering)... but ya I need to kick back relax and feel the trike out before I do anything more than warranty work.

[UtahPete]

The RTL sure does ride like crap in the twisty's.

What are you comparing it to? I have a stock RTL and it does just fine in the twisties. I outrun heavy 2-wheelers whenever I get the urge.

[CloverHillCrawler]

One of the reasons I went with an F3 instead of a RT. The seating position definitely makes the difference in the ride on the twisties.

When I test drove the RT it always felt like it was trying to throw me off of it in the turns due to sitting higher over the tank and I enjoy a more "spirited" ride.

[bikerbillone]

I rode a 2005 GW RoadSmith Conversion for years on annual vacation in the TN twistiest; man, riding two up, I had to fight that front wheel in every turn. My 20 RTL handles like a dream compared to previous said trike. Now I know there are other GW trike riders that will say the opposite, just my experience.

[Little Blue]

Lots of good Tips. The real problem is learning how to transition from two wheels to the Spyder (3 wheels).
Yes, it is really different.
Need to practice on a large open place. Practice, practice, practice and practice.

Next good Tip: Take the Spyder Training Course. I did and it helped me out a lot. Check with your local Spyder Dealer for information.

After 1000 + miles I was able to enjoy my Ryde Time.
Good Luck with Your Mission. .....

[blacklightning]

The best thing that anyone can do for any type of spyder is practice. I have heard so many stories about what tires, shocks, sway bar, etc. is the best. Then I get to the mountains with these same guys and all they can do is ask what I did in order to be fast. Then I tell them the bike is stock and I just learned how to ride. Yes, some of the earlier mentioned upgrades might make someone a little faster or the bike easier to handle. But 95% of the people cannot ride the bike to it's full potential in showroom condition. So I still say practice is the key. BTW, I have owned a 2014 RT, 2012 RSS, and currently a 2016 F3T. All of them can be fast if you practice. I do about 10k miles a year.

[K80Shooter]

I lowered the air pressure in the front tires to 18 cold to start on my 2021 RTLtd. …improved the handling tremendously here in the twisty Texas Hill Country.
I have just over 5000 miles on the odo now with no complaints. But when the OEM Kenda tires wear out I will put on a set of tires that so many out here recommend.
I have also found that it helps to keep looking ahead as far as possible in the twisties rather than at the immediate curve…seems like the beast naturally follows the curve this way rather than me wrestling it to obey..

Look at the bold print real good and try this. Worked great for me.
I managed to pick up a used Baja Ron sway bar for a song and a dance and it helped also. I honestly wasn't going to do the sway bar until I ran across this deal.

[Navydad]

For about two thousand miles I thought "what in the world have I spent my money on" as I came from the sport touring world. It will get better, much better. The biggest improvment came when I installed regular car tires at 18psi all around. I have the shock stiffeners and the anti-sway bar as well. All do a part to improve corner carving, but the tires were the best, at least for me.

[RayBJ]

We all have a different definition of 'spirited' and we have different riding styles. If you're a laid-back rider, you won't notice the shortcomings of a stock RT. If you are truly a spirited rider, you'll know early on that the suspension components are marginal at best.

Becoming one with the RT can be quick or longer than 1k miles YMMV.

IMHO:
If 'crappy' to you means sliding - tires
If too much lean - sway bar
If wandering - alignment (or death grip)
If too harsh or soft - shocks

You'll figure it out as you add miles.

[Wmoater]

Couple more things. If you are braking in the middle or towards the end of the curve, you’re going to fast. Give it a chance, slow in and power out not brake out. Lower the tire pressure for sure. Next, keep the RPM’s high. Manually downshift entering. The spyder is not going to let you rev out/over rev, so drop it two gears if you have to, so you have instant power coming out. The automatic downshifting doesn’t catch up like you manually downshifting. Last learn to push the inside knee into to side panel and lean into the curve. If you are straight coming out, then the momentum will push “you”, “not the bike “ over and it feels jerky. You’re not going to fall off or tip that bike over! Its like skiing, Keep your body parallel to the slope in and out and the transition is smooth. The sway bar does help no questions asked but take your time and play. Learn at slower rates- entering speeds and power out at the end. Learn the lean and you will be “mean.” I raced snowmobiles for 20 years and can tell you the lean and throw is the ticket. I can turn a sled almost 90 degrees and not be thrown off. Its the same with the spyder. One last thing, use your head as the lean factor. The more you rock your head the more you should lean. Make your head dance on and even flow and your body will follow. Your head is a level, make your body follow it. In sledding, when I hit the power jumps my wrist is my level.

[BertRemington]

RS -- many members have provided excellent suspension-related information but I found posts by PMK, Rednaxs60 and Circ provided the clearest explanations of suspension operation and how they tailored their Spyders to their riding preferences. And of course BajaRon provides easy-to-understand practical advice as well as excellent products.

[redrazor]

The RTL sure does ride like crap in the twisty's. Lot of bragging going on with the Bajaron sway bar and he makes adjustable spacers for the front shocks as well. New expensive shocks are out of the question for me (wowsa on the price of those things). Best I just ride for now and figure out what needs fixed through warranty first then get into the upgrades. Very smooth ride on bumpy roads, don't wanna lose that. I'm just rambling and doing my homework...

Lower front tire pressures on better tires and Elka Stage 2 front shocks made HUGE difference on My 2014 RTL.

[Rider Steve]

I rode a 2005 GW RoadSmith Conversion for years on annual vacation in the TN twistiest; man, riding two up, I had to fight that front wheel in every turn. My 20 RTL handles like a dream compared to previous said trike. Now I know there are other GW trike riders that will say the opposite, just my experience.

I installed a Roadsmith conversion on my Goldwing, 2 wheels or three they ride like a dump truck with a 185 pound rider on it.

[Woodaddict]

I rode a 2005 GW RoadSmith Conversion for years on annual vacation in the TN twistiest; man, riding two up, I had to fight that front wheel in every turn. My 20 RTL handles like a dream compared to previous said trike. Now I know there are other GW trike riders that will say the opposite, just my experience.

Same experience with me on a Harley trike. In curves front wheel would skip over and NOT track where you wanted it. Thats just the 2 wheels in rear normal experience.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The RTL sure does ride like crap in the twisty's. Lot of bragging going on with the Bajaron sway bar and he makes adjustable spacers for the front shocks as well. New expensive shocks are out of the question for me (wowsa on the price of those things). Best I just ride for now and figure out what needs fixed through warranty first then get into the upgrades. Very smooth ride on bumpy roads, don't wanna lose that. I'm just rambling and doing my homework...

Checking the list of posts you've made here I see you made no posts for 10 years. If that also indicates you were not reading the forum posts in that time you have missed many, many, discussions with new riders who have had exactly the same concern you have. Three things you need to do. First, review this thread if you haven't already: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-Spyder-owners. Second, realize you need to leave much of your two wheel and conventional trike experience and riding practices behind. The Spyder is just plain different and requires a different approach to riding. Third, as others have said, give yourself time and hundreds of miles to become one with your Spyder. After miles of experience and having an open mind to the differences of a Spyder, almost no new rider continues to be bothered by the cornering characteristic of the Spyder. In fact they discover a new thrill in cornering. There is no reason to expect your future experience to be any different from nearly all other new riders!

Pay heed to the recommendations about laser alignments, tire pressures, handlebar gripping, and body shifting. Before long you will thoroughly LOVE the Spyder experience!

[bikerbillone]

Well said Idaho, and good advice.

[Rider Steve]

Checking the list of posts you've made here I see you made no posts for 10 years. If that also indicates you were not reading the forum posts in that time you have missed many, many, discussions with new riders who have had exactly the same concern you have. Three things you need to do. First, review this thread if you haven't already: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-Spyder-owners. Second, realize you need to leave much of your two wheel and conventional trike experience and riding practices behind. The Spyder is just plain different and requires a different approach to riding. Third, as others have said, give yourself time and hundreds of miles to become one with your Spyder. After miles of experience and having an open mind to the differences of a Spyder, almost no new rider continues to be bothered by the cornering characteristic of the Spyder. In fact they discover a new thrill in cornering. There is no reason to expect your future experience to be any different from nearly all other new riders!

Pay heed to the recommendations about laser alignments, tire pressures, handlebar gripping, and body shifting. Before long you will thoroughly LOVE the Spyder experience!

Way back then they were having to many problems with the electronic steering and no fixes from the factory so I bought a 29 ford and played with that and a 27 ford. Now it's time to trike again and play with this one. I've already checked many things out with the spyder and believe it will become a great riding machine once I get things sorted out. I like selling one toy to buy another. Just the way I am.

[mecsw500]

I learned a lot on how to ride my RT LTD from the Can Am rider training. Gave me much more confidence in the bike in corners. Practice made it all come together for me.

Ridden as a touring machine, I think if set up correctly, the suspension, tires and so forth are generally fit for purpose. Could they be better, of course, but for OEM items on a new vehicle these days I personally don't think they are as bad as some claim.

One thing I think helps initially is following the suggestions of "Dave Moss from 2-Clicks Out". Brake, turn, power out is his motto for new track riders and I think it applies quite well for new Spyder riders too, certainly for the RT Limited anyway.

If I get my braking all done before the turn, run through the apex of the turn on a constant throttle and then power out once past the apex it seems quite stable and you get less of that tippy "i'm going to high side" feeling. The steering is heavier and initially less intuitive than the counter steering on a regular motorcycle, but if you follow the "brake, turn, power out sequence" you end up doing the steering while not worrying about braking or powering out while you maneuver through the turn.

One thing I noticed is that the throttle has a very long throw. It is easy to be braking for the corner and still have the throttle not completely closed or as closed as you want it to be. You end up running the engine against the brakes and it doesn't brake fast enough or settle so well into the corner. Without using the full range of the throttle under braking I tend to overshoot the corner and end up braking into the corner.

[Rider Steve]

I guess I didn't explain myself very well, mostly I was referring to was how much it leaned during the turns. Sway bar should fix a good share of that (ain't no way in hell I'm spending 2000.00 on shocks). I'll get it sorted out as time goes by. Right now I'm waiting for it to warm up so I can go out and wash that pig. Delivery driver ran through some rain on the way down, I wanna wash it so I can see what color it is.