28k service recommendations - where do I get the parts?

[JP58]

I'm getting parts for my 28k service on my 2018 F3L. So far I did the HCM filter with my end of season oil change. Got spark plugs coming from Bajaron. The last 3 items are coolant, fuel filter and canister pre-filter. Do I get these from the dealer, or aftermarket. Also how important is the canister pre-filter.

[PMK]

Looks like you are doing a coolant flush and refill. Consider the same for brakes if at 2 years or more.

I would add to the list, remove front pulley, clean and inspect splines. If worn, replace pulley, if not worn reapply fresh lubricant and reinstall.

[JP58]

I've already done all brakes and brake fluid, air filter and Molly paste the front pully.

[BertRemington]

Spark plugs -- carefully follow instructions for thermal paste.

Coolant -- buy from Amazon. If you don't use Oetiker clamps then use constant-torque clamps. Use careful force removing the radiator hose.

Fuel filter -- buy from local Autozone, et al. The hoses and therefore clamps are different sizes. WIX 33095 or equivalent.

Pre-filter -- unless you've been riding in dusty conditions no service needed. But if you have it's easy to take apart and clean.

[JP58]

Question on the coolant drain. The brp brand comes premixed. System holds about 1 gallon. If I pull the lower radiator hoses. How much coolant comes out. How do you guys that have changed coolant get it all out. What is your procedure.

[PMK]

I've already done all brakes and brake fluid, air filter and Molly paste the front pully.

Expect that the pulley clean and lube to be a service item accomplished at certain intervals. How many miles since the pulley was inspected and lubricated. Since I do oil changes each 5000 miles, I have decided on pulley each 15,000 miles.

[PMK]

Spark plugs -- carefully follow instructions for thermal paste.

Coolant -- buy from Amazon. If you don't use Oetiker clamps then use constant-torque clamps. Use careful force removing the radiator hose.

Fuel filter -- buy from local Autozone, et al. The hoses and therefore clamps are different sizes. WIX 33095 or equivalent.

Pre-filter -- unless you've been riding in dusty conditions no service needed. But if you have it's easy to take apart and clean.

FWIW, years ago I researched the thermal paste. The internet had all sorts of comparisons against copper and nickel Anti Seize compounds. The thermal difference was pretty much negligible so I used anti seize on the plugs installed in our Spyder. Was a bit surprised that the thermal paste had what seemed no lubricating properties.

[PMK]

Question on the coolant drain. The brp brand comes premixed. System holds about 1 gallon. If I pull the lower radiator hoses. How much coolant comes out. How do you guys that have changed coolant get it all out. What is your procedure.

The correct method is drain and refill with DI water, run up to temp, then drain again. Not sure what the mix ratio is on what you bought. Most times the residual blends and still offers a lot of corrosion protection.

[JP58]

The correct method is drain and refill with DI water, run up to temp, then drain again. Not sure what the mix ratio is on what you bought. Most times the residual blends and still offers a lot of corrosion protection.

I haven't bought coolant yet. If I drain and refill with distilled water and drain again. I would think using a 50/50 mix would be to weak since you can't get all the water out of the engine block. I think you need at least 2 quarts of straight coolant since it's a 1 gallon system. Than top off with distilled water. Brp doesn't sell straight coolant. Is there a good aftermarket brand people are using.

[BertRemington]

The previous owner had changed the coolant at some time, probably by a dealer. They removed a hose from the right-side ABS manifold, not the aluminum radiator so I did the same. The hose really likes to stick to the pipe and of course you don't want to tear the hose or break the pipe so it takes (at least for me) quite a bit of fussing and more force than I liked.

I didn't measure the amount but I believe at least 80% of the old coolant drained out because the hose is at the low point of the chassis. I wasn't too worried because the old coolant looked rather fresh. I also think this engine is easy on coolant with minimal plumbing and cooling requirements (it's also partially air/oil-cooled).

My procedure was to back the Spyder up two ramps (part of my driveway slopes downwards so overall the Spyder was level) and then access the hose from below. I had to remove a bottom panel or two. To refill I made a funnel with a long skinny hose. Refilling was slow and a bit messy. Ran the engine for a few minutes until the coolant in the tank started to warm, put the cap back on and I was done. Easiest coolant change ever.

[BertRemington]

The engine coolant I used https://www.amazon.com/BRP-Ski-Doo-C.../dp/B075XSFL72

The hose clamps I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N9AEH0M

The fuel filter I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9TAWI

I agree with BRP on thermal paste (thank you BajaRon for your spark plug kit) and disagree with BRP on distilled water flush.

[PMK]

I recommended DI water, not distilled, but will use distilled if that is all there is. Did not know Can Am states using distilled water.

When mixing coolant yourself from concentrate, and I am unsure what percentage you desire, just go slightly coolant rich in the mix. Fill the Spyder coolant tank 1/2 way and run it a bit. Then check with an inexpensive coolant checker. Where I live, freezing is not an issue. Running hot and corrosion are the concern. Since antifreeze runs hotter than water, I typically add Water Wetter to a 50/50 mix.

[BertRemington]

My 2014 Service Manual says nothing about an intermediate flush -- just drain and replace.

[PMK]

My 2014 Service Manual says nothing about an intermediate flush -- just drain and replace.

Agree, however you purchased the Can Am / BRP premixed coolant which will safely mix with residual coolant in the system.

The OP was asking about what other brands to use. With that, it is advisable to accomplish a flush with DeIonized water then service with DeIonized water / Antifreeze mix.

Myself, to answer his question, I typically use Peak brand coolant. Would need to check later while in the garage which exact one.

Ironic, just thinking about it, none of the service items on our Spyder use BRP products, oil, brake fluid, coolant, tires, air filter, spark plugs and more. None are from BRP.

[JP58]

Has anyone changed the pre-filter for the fuel evap canister, and where on the F3L is it located? Is it really necessary?

[BertRemington]

For my RT-S https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...=1#post1560274