Need a New battery - what type: Lead Acid, AGM, Gel?

[RayBJ]

I had a Li-Ion battery in my 1200 Trophy SE and it was fine above 40 degrees. But at 28 degrees it needed warm-up time and cranked slower than normal.
I put one with more CCA than oem in my RT (1300) and it struggled to start even at 50 degrees. It was fully charged, voltage was normal but it couldn't handle the load. Sent it back and now live with the oem anchor.

[BajaRon]

Do not use a standard Lead Acid. I put a Lithium in mine! Love it! Much easier to deal with, just for starters. Weighed about 3 lbs. But most use an AGM. They work well.

[UtahPete]

Lithium batteries are designed to provide a long, slow discharge and quick recharge. They're great for RV house batteries, trolling motors and such. They tend to overheat and even catch fire when called on to provide a high discharge amperage. A lithium battery safely rated at the discharge rate needed for a starter motor would be much larger than the space available in the Spyder battery compartment.

That is my understanding based on my research. I don't claim to be an expert on the topic.

After some googling around, it appears lithium powersports batteries are readily available. So, I was wrong and stand corrected.

Update; 6/6/22; I just ordered a Shorai. The drawbacks to LiFePO4 batteries (useless in cold weather and shorter amp-hours) for powersports are not an issue for me as I don't willingly ride in cold weather. The lighter weight, faster charging time and smaller profile are all major pros.

[EdMat]

When its cold you may need to turn it on and let the lights burn for a bit to warm up a lithium based battery before it has enuff ump to start.

[BertRemington]

Shortly after I purchased my used 2014 RT-S (77K miles, third owner) I installed a Shorai LFX36L3-BS12 https://shoraipower.com/battery?type...33&year=380733 weighing 4.5lbs (vice 17.5) with 540CCA (vice 350). I also installed a voltmeter to ensure the battery and alternator were performing properly. Boring -- 14.4 running, 13.2 resting, 12 something starting. I'm replacing the voltmeter with a clock. The only installation issue is bending the holdown tangs flat to avoid shorts.
Shorai LFX36L3-BS12.jpg
The battery comes with adapters for side/front or top lug connections (top pictured). See those dinky machine screws -- they are used to lock the alignment of the adapter to your preferred orientation (if you look closely at the above picture you can see the holes in the brass post). You also get enough adhesive spacing pads to build a cat bed with the leftovers.
Shorai Fittings.jpg
When I had a single battery I used the top adapters but switched to side adapters when I added the second battery. I never had the slightest hesitation or slow crank down into the 40s with the single battery but the low price for a second battery tempted me into adding it.
Battery in Chassis.jpgBattery in Frunk.jpgBattery Closeup.jpg
You'll notice the negative terminal has two cables (so does the positive terminal but it's not so obvious). While the batteries are connected in parallel the connection to the Spyder is separated between batteries to help balance them (ie, negative from frunk, positive from chassis).

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

When I had a single battery I used the top adapters but switched to side adapters when I added the second battery. I never had the slightest hesitation or slow crank down into the 40s with the single battery but the low price for a second battery tempted me into adding it.

What particular reason, other than price, prompted you to add a second battery? Are they identical or not? If not, they really need to be. You could have problems if they're not the same, particularly if one battery starts to die sooner than the other, or they don't absorb a charge reasonably equally, or they tend to discharge at different rates.

[BertRemington]

Well besides low price there is diminished good sense, more is better, etc etc and then for a reason you will see again in the near future -- Because I Can!

The batteries are the same model from relatively close production runs and I did put the negative and positive Spyder connections on different batteries to help (but not guarantee) balancing. And while I removed the analog voltmeter I'm installing a digital voltmeter which hopefully help me spot any deterioration.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

And while I removed the analog voltmeter I'm installing a digital voltmeter which hopefully help me spot any deterioration.

I'm skeptical. Even a near dead battery from an ampacity standpoint will show full voltage. But there is one way to keep a watch that is a load test without using a load tester. With a new, or near new, fully charged battery, open and hold the throttle wide open and then push the start button. Holding the throttle wide open keeps the engine from starting. Crank the engine for maybe 15 seconds and note what the voltage is on your digital voltmeter. You don't want to crank the starter too long or it'll get hot and maybe even burn out. After several months or a year repeat the process (same cranking time each test) and compare the voltage readings. How much the voltage drops from one test to another will give you an idea of how well the battery is holding up.

[Mikey]

I had already mentioned them in s different thread ..... Mike

Your slipping Mike!!!!

[JeffandLori]

As far as the 3 lbs weight savings, here in America, it would be more cost effective if thee operator of the vehicle lost the 3 lbs.

[K80Shooter]

What particular reason, other than price, prompted you to add a second battery? Are they identical or not? If not, they really need to be. You could have problems if they're not the same, particularly if one battery starts to die sooner than the other, or they don't absorb a charge reasonably equally, or they tend to discharge at different rates.

When running more than one battery your best battery is no better than your worst battery. In the repair field if I had to replace one battery, I always replaced them all. Thats the way the battery manufacturers tell you to do. And yes, they should always be the same with the same specs.

And while I'm at it, a lot of folks like to mention using lock washers but they "never" mention what size you need. It's a 6mm.

[BertRemington]

Idaho -- thanks for the load test guidance. It's getting down in the 40s again so I'll do a load test baseline.

Jeff -- you are so so right! I'll get the same advice from my PCP later this month. And she's going to tell me to take better care of my pipes too. Season's Greetings.

[Joel The Biker]

Joel, can you provide the brand and model of that battery? It's good to know there is a lithium option for those who want one.

https://www.amazon.com/New-BikeMaste..._bap_d_rp_74_i

Bikemaster Lithium

[HarrisburgPa-Rider$$$]

1C4F5B1A-240D-437E-8FD0-E3F7EF9AA901.jpgHave anyone ever used this kind of battery 🔋 Antigravity Batteries ATX20-HD Heavy Duty Lithium Ion Battery with Dual Polarity and Battery Management System (BMS) - 900 CCA 5.18 Pounds 30Ah - AG-ATX20-HD -> inside your Can Am Spyder? I have a 2016 RT LIMITED,63DB2E44-E772-4F20-8C01-C163D0A1DB6C.jpg

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

1C4F5B1A-240D-437E-8FD0-E3F7EF9AA901.jpgHave anyone ever used this kind of battery �� Antigravity Batteries ATX20-HD Heavy Duty Lithium Ion Battery with Dual Polarity and Battery Management System (BMS) - 900 CCA 5.18 Pounds 30Ah - AG-ATX20-HD -> inside your Can Am Spyder? I have a 2016 RT LIMITED,63DB2E44-E772-4F20-8C01-C163D0A1DB6C.jpg

900 CCA is impressive, but even 1/2 that would be more than OEM .... can you use it - sure, but make sure it will fit ..... PS at three X's the cost of a Yuasa, I won't be buying it ..... and does it need a special charger .???? .... thanks ... Mike

[BertRemington]

$$$ -- I looked at the Antigravity batteries for a Moto Guzzi Norge and was impressed with their apparent quality. But the moment passed and I gave the Norge to a nephew. The ATX20-HD will fit in the battery space although you might want some padding on the bottom to raise the height where the holddown plate will fit better. You will need to bend the tangs on the plate flat. After receiving the battery charge it at least overnight (24 hours is better) to prepare it for the first time start. And a small bright flashlight really helps with the installation!

And don't forget the star washers.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Have anyone ever used this kind of battery 🔋 Antigravity Batteries ATX20-HD Heavy Duty Lithium Ion Battery with Dual Polarity and Battery Management System (BMS) - 900 CCA 5.18 Pounds 30Ah - AG-ATX20-HD -> inside your Can Am Spyder? I have a 2016 RT LIMITED

Waste of money IMO. Kind of like using a Mack truck to haul sand for your kid's playpen when a compact pickup would the job quite nicely. Sure it has a lot more capacity than the OEM battery, but how would you ever use that capacity unless your Spyder is lit up like a Christmas tree, has a disco like 1000 watt music system, and you like to have it sit for hours fully lit up and booming music not running nor hooked to a charger!

At 3 times the cost of the OEM battery you can buy 3 OEMs for the same price that will power your Spyder for 15 years. Do you expect to keep your Spyder for 15 years? I doubt this pricey battery would last 15 years.

If money is no limit, and you like to have the biggest and baddest of everything, go for it. If you like to spend frugally it's really hard to beat the OEM Yuasa.

[Little Blue]

Probably way more battery than you really need.
As others have already posted, the price is 3X the cost of the OEM battery.
All this being said, if you want it and if it fits.......go for it.

What ever makes you happy. ......

[budC]

Lithium is still a technology in development. There are at least 3 different "lithium" battery types out there, all with different characteristics in terms of discharge and charge speeds, max current, Amp-hr ratings and life. The big advantage lithium brings is weight - pounds-size/power ratio. For guys out there with racebikes or trial or lightweight dirt bikes they have an advantage. For a (almost) thousand pound Spyder... If you want to run your sound system for hours with the engine off, lithium may be worth the extra cost.

All other batteries you can buy (excluding exotic apps like spacecraft and military) are based on sulfuric acid/lead chemistry, AGM and gel included. Liquid acid tends to splash around, which is a disadvantage in vehicles, which is why AGM and gel batteries dominate that market. Liquid acid batteries, which some people refer to as lead/acid, have advantages in stationary applications, like telephone offices. They are also cheaper to manufacture, which is why you still see them in vehicle applications.

Gel and AGM batteries "fix" the sulfuric acid so that it doesn't splash. Gel batteries are better in any application where the batteries spend significant amounts of time in other than vertical position. They are also more expensive than AGM.

What this leads us to is exactly the OEM solution.

AGM is the way to go.

[BertRemington]

The big advantage lithium brings is weight - pounds-size/power ratio.

Yep that made it much easier to install my Shorai LFX36L3-BS12 on my lightweight racebike Spyder.

Of course the holddown plate was still a chore. If you do choose a LFX battery (the only lithium chemistry I would recommend) make sure you bend the tangs up or you risk a short.

I kept getting tempted by a Power Commander/Paddle Box/ECU flash but decided to spend the farkle money on a second Shorai (it was on deep discount). I did succumb to buying LM/BR swaybar before I ordered my Ikon shocks but after installing them I'm pretty sure it will be for sale (new in box). The Ikons provide such a supple ride and a swaybar won't improve it.

[Rednaxs60]

Idaho -- thanks for the load test guidance. It's getting down in the 40s again so I'll do a load test baseline.

Jeff -- you are so so right! I'll get the same advice from my PCP later this month. And she's going to tell me to take better care of my pipes too. Season's Greetings.

I picked up a small battery tester, have the basic analogue load tester as well. This one gives the health of the battery. It's inexpensive, but does a good job for the DIY garage mechanic. Cost approximately $60.00 CDN. It's a KZYEE KS21 Auto Battery Tester, 12V CCA Car Battery Load Tester Digital Analyzer for Vehicle Battery Health, Cranking and Charging System. Brother used this on his KIA Sportage as well, the battery was pooched at 24%. Has a couple other usefull functions.

My brother's Hyundai Santa Fe started to act up with the electrics/electronics. Tested the battery with it and it was at a 54% charge. Battery replaced and all is well. Would probably have come to the same realization with the analogue load tester, but seeing numbers is good.