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  1. #1
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    Question Any videos showing the Black inner panel removal? 20/21 RTL's

    Hello, I have watched a couple videos showing how to remove the small panel with auto clips and the two painted panels! My question is about the big black inner panel on left side of the 2020/2021 RTL’s! Has anyone made or seen a video showing what needs to be done to remove this inner panel? I have read a post describing the procedure, but a video would work best for me! Thanks

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don60 View Post
    Hello, I have watched a couple videos showing how to remove the small panel with auto clips and the two painted panels! My question is about the big black inner panel on left side of the 2020/2021 RTL’s! Has anyone made or seen a video showing what needs to be done to remove this inner panel? I have read a post describing the procedure, but a video would work best for me! Thanks
    Unless someone has created one in the last month, there isn’t a video, Don. The written instructions do detail it pretty well, and it isn’t that hard. The left panel is easier than the right, as you have to manoeuvre around the brake pedal on the right side. I’ll se if I can find my post on it from when I replaced my rear shock, in case you haven’t seen it.

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setting up for Big&Tall.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars.
    Kenda Kanine Fronts (Rears unavailable ATM).
    RabbitWorks (Aussie) Stabiliser Bar
    Ikon (Aussie) rear shock.
    2016 F3 Limited , Rapid Red

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    This is from K80Shooter, Don. I’m not sure if this is the one you have seen, but it was all I needed. Just take a few photos as you are doing it, as it does help with “reassembly memory”

    I just took mine off again this morning to have access to the seat strut. There's really nothing to it. Remove the painted panels, remove the passenger and drivers floorboard/foot rest, remove the Rotax panel at the floorboard(there is one of those tiny plastic screw thingy's up front, make sure to take it out. Remove the clips and attaching screws from the panel along with the bottom front saddle bag clip/bolt. There is one hidden clip that you just pull on the panel to get loose and be careful down at the floorboard area as there is one piece that snaps around the tubing. Then just slide it out.

    Takes maybe 20 minutes after you have the painted panels removed.

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setting up for Big&Tall.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars.
    Kenda Kanine Fronts (Rears unavailable ATM).
    RabbitWorks (Aussie) Stabiliser Bar
    Ikon (Aussie) rear shock.
    2016 F3 Limited , Rapid Red

  4. #4
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    Pete,
    Thank you for you reply and advice. I want to inspect my front pulley and might install a belt tensioner to help with belt vibration issues! Dealer wants 1 1/2 hours of labor for this job!

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don60 View Post
    Pete,
    Thank you for you reply and advice. I want to inspect my front pulley and might install a belt tensioner to help with belt vibration issues! Dealer wants 1 1/2 hours of labor for this job!
    Don, what year RT do you have? The ‘20/‘21 RTs from late ‘20 on, started to be shipped with tensioners installed. My ‘20/‘21 BRP workshop manual includes the tensioner in their diagrams.

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setting up for Big&Tall.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars.
    Kenda Kanine Fronts (Rears unavailable ATM).
    RabbitWorks (Aussie) Stabiliser Bar
    Ikon (Aussie) rear shock.
    2016 F3 Limited , Rapid Red

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Don…….p.s. there IS one tricky bit that the thread I have copied below discusses….. sorry, I forgot about it.
    Right at the front bottom of the black panel is a push pin (with screw). They are buggers to get out as a Phillips head #2 can strip them (plastic screw). Have a read of the thread below before removing it…. I used a #1 .

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...e-compartments

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setting up for Big&Tall.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars.
    Kenda Kanine Fronts (Rears unavailable ATM).
    RabbitWorks (Aussie) Stabiliser Bar
    Ikon (Aussie) rear shock.
    2016 F3 Limited , Rapid Red

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Jetfixer's Avatar
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    You also have a bolt running vertically at the bottom forward edge of the side compartment. You do not need to remove the drivers footrest for the left side. There's the screw rivet mentioned above, 2 lower pushpins, the 3 screws in front of the foot rest (even with the back of the fender), 3 more pushpins along the top edge, and one torx screw in the middle.
    2020 RT Limited , Marsala Red

  8. #8
    Very Active Member RayBJ's Avatar
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    Good info regarding REMOVING the black panel. As for RE-INSTALLING, it can be a lot more frustrating. Aligning and snapping the panel back into the adjoining upper plastics requires lots of manipulation and a tender touch. Also, I found the most difficult removal part was lifting the panel off the frame tube at the bottom and snapping it back on during re-assembly.
    '20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Q5 tires, Pedal Commander, PV3, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, XM, Radar Detector, KOTT grills.
    2020 RT base , Chalk White

  9. #9
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    Pete, my RTL is a 21, but build date of May 2020, so no updated “white pulley” or a belt tensioner! Dealer is sending them, so will use your step by step information on screws and fasteners to remove that panel once all parts arrive.
    Jetfixer, thanks for your information also, nice to know I do not have to remove drivers floorboard!

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Don, by the way, if you just want to check your front sprocket, you can do that by only removing the lower Rotax panel above the floorboard…… 6 Torx top and bottom, 3 Torx at front, and that nasty little screw pin right at the front bottom. (You may not have to remove the screw pin though, as taking the rest of the Torx out should let you pull the panel out far enough to give you a good view of the front sprocket.

    ALSO….. I have read a couple of reports on here, that the new, white, front sprockets are also failing. I think I have seen 3 instances now. It might be worth considering keeping your new sprocket aside, and just doing regular checks of your current sprocket. You might not experience the red dust, but if you do, you have the solution to hand.

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setting up for Big&Tall.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars.
    Kenda Kanine Fronts (Rears unavailable ATM).
    RabbitWorks (Aussie) Stabiliser Bar
    Ikon (Aussie) rear shock.
    2016 F3 Limited , Rapid Red

  11. #11
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    Pete, thanks so much on the quick way to check front sprocket! So much easier, and I have read the same about white “fix”! I’m thinking I will be checking the sprocket and not replace unless needed! Enjoy your warmer weather and riding, weather turning cold here, so my riding tapering off!

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