My 2010 RT SE5 headlights go off when engine revs?! Relay maybe?!
Hi all", I jumped onto my spyder and the headlights were working intermittently, then went off all together . I start the spyder up and lights work then I rev the engine then they stop. Checked all fuses under seat and in the front trunk. When I rev the motor the lights go off. I hope it's not to exspensive to fix. I wonder if it is a relay
Check your battery cables. A problem like this is often caused by a poor ground somewhere that causes the ground side of equipment to see voltage high enough to block current from flowing through the component.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
Hi Mate", cables are good and I just had new dps fitted, wheel alignment, front brake pads replaced, 2 new front tyres, and new battery fitted. It was OK a couple of days ago and working just fine, but that seems to be with spyders LOL
Was the 'New Battery' put on an external charger for at least 12 hours before installation??
And were all the battery terminals and the grounds, especially the one near the DPS, checked for tightness & proper grounding before buttoning it all up?
I ask, because failure to do either/both of those have previously been the cause of similar issues on quite a few of our power hungry Spyders, and especially on the pre-2014 Spyders that have a 'less capable' magneto charging system than those 2014 & on that come with an alternator.
Most new batteries only come with a 'light charge' so that they'll start the engine & can then get charged more by the alternator while the vehicle runs. But pre-2014 Spyders have a charge system that will barely do that if everything is in top notch condition & fully charged to start with; so a 'not fully charged before installation' battery might be fine for the first few runs you do, but unless those runs entail at least a couple of hours of solid running at highway speeds with little power demands (ie. not caning it thru the twisties & working the DPS over-time!) then your new battery will most likely be getting weaker & weaker with every start!! . Add to that the fact that the DPS is one of the most power hungry things on our Spyders, which is why they have a ground so close - but that ground is pretty hard to get at & can be very difficult to cinch up tight, so the improper ground that often results leads to exactly the issue IdahoMS mentioned! Do you really need to ask me how I know that BOTH of these conditions occur & are a right pain?!?
So even if everything was hunky dory & worked fine a couple of days ago, because those are the things you've most recently played with as well as the above, then they'd be the things I'd be checking first!! . While it's not as good as a proper Battery load & charging system test, even a basic multi-meter can help check all this - if your resting battery doesn't have more than about 12.4 or .5 volts showing as a bare minimum (ie, rested overnight & voltage checked before trying anything!) &/or if it drops below 11 volts when actually cranking to start &/or if the running voltage doesn't get above at least 12.6 volts, or better yet, make 13 or so volts, then the battery &/or charging system is the likely cause of your problem. And if the battery is New, then the most likely cause of that early failure is no pre-installation charging or poor connections/grounds somewhere - altho it could also be just a dud battery!
Over to you, and Good Luck!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-06-2021 at 01:00 AM.
Hi Peter", all good now I just tried the same 30 amp relay out of the radiator cooling one and it works fine now so I just got to by one now. The LED volt meter I put in the dash says 13.8 to 14V so I am happy with that
Hi Peter", all good now I just tried the same 30 amp relay out of the radiator cooling one and it works fine now so I just got to by one now. The LED volt meter I put in the dash says 13.8 to 14V so I am happy with that
Regards Peter
Just curious how you came up with the 30 amp relay being a problem? Please give us more information.
I am glad you got your issue fixed.....
ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
Ryde with a Friend and be Safe
Hi Mate", I read it on a post somewhere and I can't remember where I read it. i checked the fuse under the seat which is number 7 a 30 amp fuse, but it was OK. I checked the 15 amp fuse in the front trunk and it was OK. The reason I checked the relay in the front trunk was because the lights were working sometimes and then would go off, so I pulled the radiator cooling fan relay out and put it into the headlight relay location and then the lights worked ok, so I knew then it was a faulty relay. I put the cooling fan relay back into where I took it out because the cooling fan would not have worked. I ordered a new relay
My 2010 RT SE5 headlights go off when engine revs?! Relay maybe?!
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. Add to that the fact that the DPS is one of the most power hungry things on our Spyders, which is why they have a ground so close - but that ground is pretty hard to get at & can be very difficult to cinch up tight, so the improper ground that often results leads to exactly the issue IdahoMS mentioned! Do you really need to ask me how I know that BOTH of these conditions occur & are a right pain?!? 
. While it's not as good as a proper Battery load & charging system test, even a basic multi-meter can help check all this - if your resting battery doesn't have more than about 12.4 or .5 volts showing as a bare minimum (ie, rested overnight & voltage checked before trying anything!) &/or if it drops below 11 volts when actually cranking to start &/or if the running voltage doesn't get above at least 12.6 volts, or better yet, make 13 or so volts, then the battery &/or charging system is the likely cause of your problem. And if the battery is New, then the most likely cause of that early failure is no pre-installation charging or poor connections/grounds somewhere - altho it could also be just a dud battery! 
Originally Posted by peterRT
