Any ideas why my 2014 RT Dies at Stop Lights?

[Utah Geezer]

Rode about 20 miles to neighboring community for dinner. Just before we got to our destination we hit a stop light and when I stopped the 2014 Spyder RTL died. It started right back up and we took off with no further problems. Ate dinner and took off back towards home. Got about 2 miles down the road stopped at an intersection and it died again. It started right back up again and made it home with no further problems. Any idea what is causing this? One forum suggested battery or loose cables and another thought maybe vacuum hose leak. Got a couple rides coming up and I would rather be on the Spyder than my Kawasaki.

[Bfromla]

Unfortunately there are few variations & combinations , also included evap purge vale malfunction. Especially if tank was filled to brim & any fuel got in the valve.

[Utah Geezer]

Unfortunately there are few variations & combinations , also included evap purge vale malfunction. Especially if tank was filled to brim & any fuel got in the valve.

I stop putting fuel in it as soon as it clicks off. I never ride without stopping before the tank is empty so I don't worry about running out thus no need to top off and risk that problem. Thanks for the input.

[Bfromla]

I stop putting fuel in it as soon as it clicks off. I never ride without stopping before the tank is empty so I don't worry about running out thus no need to top off and risk that problem. Thanks for the input.

definitely wanna check vacuum hoses & possibly upgrade to silicon. Supposed have same diameter at Napa just cut same length, few threads on matter, pic from someone else - just saved for reference: 998 FEFBB044-B70E-446A-B80F-EF250F712DA4.jpeg

[PMK]

To clarify previous replies regarding replacement of the vacuum hoses, your machine is a newer model with the 1330cc engine and does not have the vacuum hoses mentioned.

Seeing yours is an RTL, most likely you have the SE6 semi automatic transmission version. As you approached these stops, was there anything not normal preventing the automatic clutch from releasing?

You did make mention that you do not overfill the fuel tank. Regardless, it is still possible the purge valve is at fault as suggested by someone else.

Yes, you should confirm the electrical connections on the battery are clean and secure. That is an easy and simple check. Seems unlikely to be the basis of the issue since it apparently starts ok, but, these Spyders enjoy electricity, and any disruption can show up as a strange problem.

[Caven]

If you'd recently filled your gas tank you may have a case of 'bad gas' (water in the mix from a gas-station that is getting fewer fill-ups of its own now there is a supply chain problem). Try adding to your gas tank with premium and ride. If water in the fuel is the problem it'll soon be flushed thro'
Caven

[Bfromla]

Any Update please

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

If you'd recently filled your gas tank you may have a case of 'bad gas' (water in the mix from a gas-station that is getting fewer fill-ups of its own now there is a supply chain problem). Try adding to your gas tank with premium and ride. If water in the fuel is the problem it'll soon be flushed thro'
Caven

" Premium " gas will not solve a " water in the gas " problem - period. .... There are products specifically designed to deal with " water " in gas ..... try one first ...... good luck .... Mike

[Little Blue]

Any more information about your issue?

Really difficult to figure out helpful tips on so little information.

We have said battery problem?
Wiring issues?
Gasoline with water?
Engine kill switch problem?
Do you have any codes?
When did this problem start?

Help us out and maybe we can help you out. ......

[missouriboy]

Good grief! All this sturm and drang.

Mine does the same thing, every time the Throttle Body gets dirty and clogged. Git 'er cleaned out! Then enjoy that good, smooth running again.

[missouriboy]

Okay, so my Spyder started doing the same thing again, for the second time in its 102,000 mile life, just like the OP describes. It kept getting worse for 2-3 weeks while my tech guy was down with covid. Running lousy, dying at almost all stops, check engine light... just would not idle. So this week my tech buddy is recovered and we got together to clean that durned old throttle body. Again! (First time was a couple years ago, same symptoms.) His computer revealed the error-codes did concern throttle body sensor feedback, but he didn't tell me exactly what they were.

Remove part, spray with copious amounts of carburetor cleaner, generous doses of elbow grease. He found a fleck of debris that was preventing the butterfly valve from closing completely, and said this would cause the failed sensory feedback to the computer.

So, not one dime for new parts, just a good cleaning-out. And now she runs like new again! I didn't realize how badly that even the cruising & shifting performance had deteriorated, but all that was greatly improved also. (It degrades gradually, so as to be unnoticeable, but being suddenly corrected is an amazing improvement!)

I haven't bothered to check the recommended maintenance schedule, but it looks like a good cleaning at least every 50K miles, if not sooner, would be good prevention.
So now I'm gonna go out and ryde some more... it's fun again!