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  1. #1
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    Default Air bag issue - anyone gone full manual? Info/instructions?

    I have 2012 RT Limited

    Compressor died due to an air leak somewhere in the system and it kept running.

    I would like to change over to manual system after we find the leak.

    No compressor just direct connection air bag to the Schroeder valve is what I want, just complete manual system

    Anyone done this and is there a thread I can follow on how to do and what needs to be changed on the Spyder?

    Thanks


    Larry

  2. #2
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    After replacing the air bag on my 2010 (manual system). All you need is a new air line from the air bag fitting to the air valve under the seat.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    What he said above. If you do search you will find info on doing just that. Good luck. Bruce
    New to Sue and I
    2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
    Gone but not forgotten
    RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles


  4. #4
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    .

    Recently did this when the system leaked itself to death. Lots of connections to leak. Just connected to bag to the Schrader valve under the seat and all is good Holds air for weeks. It's dirty/messy down there but only have to remove some left side tupperware , remove the dump valve ( the leaker ) and add a piece of 1/4" tube. I wound up doing it in 2 pieces with a quality and simple junction.

    Good luck, Lew L

    Edit: Joe Meyer helped walked me through it . Contact him through " Squared Away" on this site.
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
    2014 RTS , Circuit Yellow

  5. #5
    Active Member ButterSmooth's Avatar
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    What about a full manual system with a pre-load adjustable spring. The whole airbag thing is just an annoyance to me. Anybody got specs or a part number for a spring? Might even be worth changing to a better rear shock at the same time.
    Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donbmw View Post
    After replacing the air bag on my 2010 (manual system). All you need is a new air line from the air bag fitting to the air valve under the seat.
    Thanks I'll do that.

    Larry

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1supra1 View Post
    I have 2012 RT Limited

    Compressor died due to an air leak somewhere in the system and it kept running.

    I would like to change over to manual system after we find the leak.

    No compressor just direct connection air bag to the Schroeder valve is what I want, just complete manual system

    Anyone done this and is there a thread I can follow on how to do and what needs to be changed on the Spyder?

    Thanks


    Larry
    First thing I would do is make sure that the bag it self isn't the problem! Pump it up threw the shrader and put the soapy water to it and check it for leaks, then, like said above just put a hose from the bag to the valve and be done with the piece of crap! One of these days BRP will come up with a better mouse trap!! Good luck!! If the bag is leaking, then go to Elka, or M2 and get yourself a nice shock!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  8. #8
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    My 2016 F3T has the manual air system. It doesn't hold air for even an hour now. I called yesterday and made an appointment to have it checked, before the warranty goes off.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  9. #9
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    One downside to manual filling is you have to have an air gun that will let you control the air flow to very low rates. The air bag is small and it doesn't take much of a squirt of air to be overinflated.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Navydad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    One downside to manual filling is you have to have an air gun that will let you control the air flow to very low rates. The air bag is small and it doesn't take much of a squirt of air to be overinflated.
    Yes, you must be careful. I have a small compressor that I can set for a certain PSI and it will stop running at that point. Works great. I like my manual system for the simplicity of it. You couldn't run fast enough to give me the over complicated automatic system.
    2015 RT , Black

  11. #11
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    I set my shop compressor to the lbs I want and fill bag up that way. Works like a charm. Bruce
    New to Sue and I
    2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
    Gone but not forgotten
    RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles


  12. #12
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Les uses a bicycle hand pump. Perfect for the job. A few strokes, and it’s right on! On the road we use an aerostich compressor.
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

  13. #13
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Larry, easy to do:
    Remove Tupperware. Follow the Schrader valve to a line. Disconnect it. Follow to next component. Disconnect it. When you get to the airbag, stop. Use Teflon tape, and connect the lines to each other so you have a Schrader valve on one end, and the airbag on the other. There will be a couple of connections. Put air in the bag. 45# will do. Put a capful of dish soap in a spray bottle, add warm water, shake. Spray all over bag and connections and lines. Leaks make bubbles. Meanwhile, measure from the tip of the rear fender to the ground. Write that down. If you find no leaks, replace Tupperware. When you do your weekly tire pressure check, measure the fender to ground. If it is down more than an inch, add air. I manage to lose a lot of air with my tire pressure gauge; the ruler is easier! My number is below. Call me if you need help. Joe
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

  14. #14
    Active Member teninospyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cptjam View Post
    Larry, easy to do:
    Remove Tupperware. Follow the Schrader valve to a line. Disconnect it. Follow to next component. Disconnect it. When you get to the airbag, stop. Use Teflon tape, and connect the lines to each other so you have a Schrader valve on one end, and the airbag on the other. There will be a couple of connections. Put air in the bag. 45# will do. Put a capful of dish soap in a spray bottle, add warm water, shake. Spray all over bag and connections and lines. Leaks make bubbles. Meanwhile, measure from the tip of the rear fender to the ground. Write that down. If you find no leaks, replace Tupperware. When you do your weekly tire pressure check, measure the fender to ground. If it is down more than an inch, add air. I manage to lose a lot of air with my tire pressure gauge; the ruler is easier! My number is below. Call me if you need help. Joe
    I usually fill ours to 70/75 lbs and it lasts "a long long time" (weeks, maybe months) without needing a refill.
    I'm curious about what others say needs to be done here. As I recall (?)......all I did when my 2nd compressor failed and I gave up on BRP and my extended warranty "fixing" it, was to get to the compressor and unplug the power to it. I did nothing else. From then on I use the shrader valve to fill as noted above. Just my input.
    Ray & Marci
    Tenino, WA
    2014RTL Cognac
    ALWAYS ride 2 up.

  15. #15
    Active Member ButterSmooth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cptjam View Post
    ... When you do your weekly tire pressure check, measure the fender to ground. If it is down more than an inch, add air. I manage to lose a lot of air with my tire pressure gauge; the ruler is easier! My number is below. Call me if you need help. Joe
    My RT's rear suspension is at full extension over a wide range of pressures when unloaded. I can put my palms on the rear bags and give it a quick push down and it will return to the full-up position quickly. When this return response gets sluggish, it's time to check the air. It has to be well below 35psi to not top out the shock. Measuring the fender height would not work for me since it's the same (full height) at anything above 30psi or so. Mebbe it's just my RT...
    Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
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  16. #16
    Active Member teninospyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ButterSmooth View Post
    My RT's rear suspension is at full extension over a wide range of pressures when unloaded. I can put my palms on the rear bags and give it a quick push down and it will return to the full-up position quickly. When this return response gets sluggish, it's time to check the air. It has to be well below 35psi to not top out the shock. Measuring the fender height would not work for me since it's the same (full height) at anything above 30psi or so. Mebbe it's just my RT...
    Hmmmm......given that we always ride 2 up (at or "close to" the Spyder spec limit for weight) any pressure less than 70 produces a "mushy" feeling - and sometimes a bottoming out event over some bumps 70 doesn't create a problem for us at all.

    PS: I too use a marked stick of wood and check the elevation of the rear of the Spyder to the bottom of my mudflap. 7" works for us.
    Ray & Marci
    Tenino, WA
    2014RTL Cognac
    ALWAYS ride 2 up.

  17. #17
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    Thanks Joe

    I like the measuring stick idea as well

    Larry

  18. #18
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    A proper rear shock will take the air bag and compressor out of the equation.

  19. #19
    Active Member teninospyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    A proper rear shock will take the air bag and compressor out of the equation.
    Hmmmmmmm.....what shock would that be for our 2014RTL riding 2 up as noted in my other posts ?
    Ray & Marci
    Tenino, WA
    2014RTL Cognac
    ALWAYS ride 2 up.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by teninospyder View Post
    Hmmmmmmm.....what shock would that be for our 2014RTL riding 2 up as noted in my other posts ?
    M2 shock. Been using it for couple seasons now.

    Still have the compressor on and bag and I drained all the air and compressor never turns on.

    Bike never bottoms out even riding two up.

    Just have to get the correct setup for your application.

  21. #21
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Or Elka!! Just give them a call and tell them what you want, they will ask how you ride and how much weight you normally carry! They will build and set the shock up to close to what it has to be, and give you a booklet on how to adjust if you don't like it !
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  22. #22
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teninospyder View Post
    I usually fill ours to 70/75 lbs and it lasts "a long long time" (weeks, maybe months) without needing a refill.
    I'm curious about what others say needs to be done here. As I recall (?)......all I did when my 2nd compressor failed and I gave up on BRP and my extended warranty "fixing" it, was to get to the compressor and unplug the power to it. I did nothing else. From then on I use the shrader valve to fill as noted above. Just my input.
    A lot of the time the check valve on the compressors the leak in the system that burns the compressor out, if you leave the shock in the loop it will bleed out, some faster than others! That's why if it was me I would unhook and go straight from bag to Scrader, do a good soap test and call it a day!! For the most part if done that way to should not have to add any more air all season!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  23. #23
    Active Member teninospyder's Avatar
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    Guess I'm lucky on this one
    Ray & Marci
    Tenino, WA
    2014RTL Cognac
    ALWAYS ride 2 up.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by cptjam View Post
    Larry, easy to do:
    Remove Tupperware. Follow the Schrader valve to a line. Disconnect it. Follow to next component. Disconnect it. When you get to the airbag, stop. Use Teflon tape, and connect the lines to each other so you have a Schrader valve on one end, and the airbag on the other. There will be a couple of connections. Put air in the bag. 45# will do. Put a capful of dish soap in a spray bottle, add warm water, shake. Spray all over bag and connections and lines. Leaks make bubbles. Meanwhile, measure from the tip of the rear fender to the ground. Write that down. If you find no leaks, replace Tupperware. When you do your weekly tire pressure check, measure the fender to ground. If it is down more than an inch, add air. I manage to lose a lot of air with my tire pressure gauge; the ruler is easier! My number is below. Call me if you need help. Joe
    Hi Joe, hope you guys are doing well and staying healthy...

    Back again after a long absence (hospital and recovery, all good now)

    Thanks for the tips on removing the Tupperware last fall. I did try it and it was not nearly as complicated as I feared (after your detailed instructions). I did the right side and found it very difficult to get to the air bag etc. Should I have gone in from the left side instead?

    Larry
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-14-2022 at 05:46 PM. Reason: spaces & CR's ;-)

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