-
Air bag issue - anyone gone full manual? Info/instructions?
I have 2012 RT Limited
Compressor died due to an air leak somewhere in the system and it kept running.
I would like to change over to manual system after we find the leak.
No compressor just direct connection air bag to the Schroeder valve is what I want, just complete manual system
Anyone done this and is there a thread I can follow on how to do and what needs to be changed on the Spyder?
Thanks
Larry
-
After replacing the air bag on my 2010 (manual system). All you need is a new air line from the air bag fitting to the air valve under the seat.
-
Very Active Member
What he said above. If you do search you will find info on doing just that. Good luck. Bruce
New to Sue and I
2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
Gone but not forgotten
RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles
-
Very Active Member
.
Recently did this when the system leaked itself to death. Lots of connections to leak. Just connected to bag to the Schrader valve under the seat and all is good Holds air for weeks. It's dirty/messy down there but only have to remove some left side tupperware , remove the dump valve ( the leaker ) and add a piece of 1/4" tube. I wound up doing it in 2 pieces with a quality and simple junction.
Good luck, Lew L
Edit: Joe Meyer helped walked me through it . Contact him through " Squared Away" on this site.
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
-
Active Member
What about a full manual system with a pre-load adjustable spring. The whole airbag thing is just an annoyance to me. Anybody got specs or a part number for a spring? Might even be worth changing to a better rear shock at the same time.
Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
Spyder Tryke Pylot
2020 RT , Lamonster extender Petrol
-
Originally Posted by Donbmw
After replacing the air bag on my 2010 (manual system). All you need is a new air line from the air bag fitting to the air valve under the seat.
Thanks I'll do that.
Larry
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by 1supra1
I have 2012 RT Limited
Compressor died due to an air leak somewhere in the system and it kept running.
I would like to change over to manual system after we find the leak.
No compressor just direct connection air bag to the Schroeder valve is what I want, just complete manual system
Anyone done this and is there a thread I can follow on how to do and what needs to be changed on the Spyder?
Thanks
Larry
First thing I would do is make sure that the bag it self isn't the problem! Pump it up threw the shrader and put the soapy water to it and check it for leaks, then, like said above just put a hose from the bag to the valve and be done with the piece of crap! One of these days BRP will come up with a better mouse trap!! Good luck!! If the bag is leaking, then go to Elka, or M2 and get yourself a nice shock!!
-
Very Active Member
My 2016 F3T has the manual air system. It doesn't hold air for even an hour now. I called yesterday and made an appointment to have it checked, before the warranty goes off.
2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
-
Very Active Member
One downside to manual filling is you have to have an air gun that will let you control the air flow to very low rates. The air bag is small and it doesn't take much of a squirt of air to be overinflated.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
One downside to manual filling is you have to have an air gun that will let you control the air flow to very low rates. The air bag is small and it doesn't take much of a squirt of air to be overinflated.
Yes, you must be careful. I have a small compressor that I can set for a certain PSI and it will stop running at that point. Works great. I like my manual system for the simplicity of it. You couldn't run fast enough to give me the over complicated automatic system.
-
Very Active Member
I set my shop compressor to the lbs I want and fill bag up that way. Works like a charm. Bruce
New to Sue and I
2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
Gone but not forgotten
RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles
-
SpyderLovers Sponsor
Les uses a bicycle hand pump. Perfect for the job. A few strokes, and it’s right on! On the road we use an aerostich compressor.
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
-
SpyderLovers Sponsor
Larry, easy to do:
Remove Tupperware. Follow the Schrader valve to a line. Disconnect it. Follow to next component. Disconnect it. When you get to the airbag, stop. Use Teflon tape, and connect the lines to each other so you have a Schrader valve on one end, and the airbag on the other. There will be a couple of connections. Put air in the bag. 45# will do. Put a capful of dish soap in a spray bottle, add warm water, shake. Spray all over bag and connections and lines. Leaks make bubbles. Meanwhile, measure from the tip of the rear fender to the ground. Write that down. If you find no leaks, replace Tupperware. When you do your weekly tire pressure check, measure the fender to ground. If it is down more than an inch, add air. I manage to lose a lot of air with my tire pressure gauge; the ruler is easier! My number is below. Call me if you need help. Joe
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
-
Active Member
Originally Posted by cptjam
Larry, easy to do:
Remove Tupperware. Follow the Schrader valve to a line. Disconnect it. Follow to next component. Disconnect it. When you get to the airbag, stop. Use Teflon tape, and connect the lines to each other so you have a Schrader valve on one end, and the airbag on the other. There will be a couple of connections. Put air in the bag. 45# will do. Put a capful of dish soap in a spray bottle, add warm water, shake. Spray all over bag and connections and lines. Leaks make bubbles. Meanwhile, measure from the tip of the rear fender to the ground. Write that down. If you find no leaks, replace Tupperware. When you do your weekly tire pressure check, measure the fender to ground. If it is down more than an inch, add air. I manage to lose a lot of air with my tire pressure gauge; the ruler is easier! My number is below. Call me if you need help. Joe
I usually fill ours to 70/75 lbs and it lasts "a long long time" (weeks, maybe months) without needing a refill.
I'm curious about what others say needs to be done here. As I recall (?)......all I did when my 2nd compressor failed and I gave up on BRP and my extended warranty "fixing" it, was to get to the compressor and unplug the power to it. I did nothing else. From then on I use the shrader valve to fill as noted above. Just my input.
Ray & Marci
Tenino, WA
2014RTL Cognac
ALWAYS ride 2 up.
-
Active Member
Originally Posted by cptjam
... When you do your weekly tire pressure check, measure the fender to ground. If it is down more than an inch, add air. I manage to lose a lot of air with my tire pressure gauge; the ruler is easier! My number is below. Call me if you need help. Joe
My RT's rear suspension is at full extension over a wide range of pressures when unloaded. I can put my palms on the rear bags and give it a quick push down and it will return to the full-up position quickly. When this return response gets sluggish, it's time to check the air. It has to be well below 35psi to not top out the shock. Measuring the fender height would not work for me since it's the same (full height) at anything above 30psi or so. Mebbe it's just my RT...
Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
Spyder Tryke Pylot
2020 RT , Lamonster extender Petrol
-
Active Member
Ray & Marci
Tenino, WA
2014RTL Cognac
ALWAYS ride 2 up.
-
Thanks Joe
I like the measuring stick idea as well
Larry
-
A proper rear shock will take the air bag and compressor out of the equation.
-
Active Member
Originally Posted by trikermutha
A proper rear shock will take the air bag and compressor out of the equation.
Hmmmmmmm.....what shock would that be for our 2014RTL riding 2 up as noted in my other posts ?
Ray & Marci
Tenino, WA
2014RTL Cognac
ALWAYS ride 2 up.
-
Originally Posted by teninospyder
Hmmmmmmm.....what shock would that be for our 2014RTL riding 2 up as noted in my other posts ?
M2 shock. Been using it for couple seasons now.
Still have the compressor on and bag and I drained all the air and compressor never turns on.
Bike never bottoms out even riding two up.
Just have to get the correct setup for your application.
-
Very Active Member
Or Elka!! Just give them a call and tell them what you want, they will ask how you ride and how much weight you normally carry! They will build and set the shock up to close to what it has to be, and give you a booklet on how to adjust if you don't like it !
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by teninospyder
I usually fill ours to 70/75 lbs and it lasts "a long long time" (weeks, maybe months) without needing a refill.
I'm curious about what others say needs to be done here. As I recall (?)......all I did when my 2nd compressor failed and I gave up on BRP and my extended warranty "fixing" it, was to get to the compressor and unplug the power to it. I did nothing else. From then on I use the shrader valve to fill as noted above. Just my input.
A lot of the time the check valve on the compressors the leak in the system that burns the compressor out, if you leave the shock in the loop it will bleed out, some faster than others! That's why if it was me I would unhook and go straight from bag to Scrader, do a good soap test and call it a day!! For the most part if done that way to should not have to add any more air all season!
-
Active Member
Guess I'm lucky on this one
Ray & Marci
Tenino, WA
2014RTL Cognac
ALWAYS ride 2 up.
-
Originally Posted by cptjam
Larry, easy to do:
Remove Tupperware. Follow the Schrader valve to a line. Disconnect it. Follow to next component. Disconnect it. When you get to the airbag, stop. Use Teflon tape, and connect the lines to each other so you have a Schrader valve on one end, and the airbag on the other. There will be a couple of connections. Put air in the bag. 45# will do. Put a capful of dish soap in a spray bottle, add warm water, shake. Spray all over bag and connections and lines. Leaks make bubbles. Meanwhile, measure from the tip of the rear fender to the ground. Write that down. If you find no leaks, replace Tupperware. When you do your weekly tire pressure check, measure the fender to ground. If it is down more than an inch, add air. I manage to lose a lot of air with my tire pressure gauge; the ruler is easier! My number is below. Call me if you need help. Joe
Hi Joe, hope you guys are doing well and staying healthy...
Back again after a long absence (hospital and recovery, all good now)
Thanks for the tips on removing the Tupperware last fall. I did try it and it was not nearly as complicated as I feared (after your detailed instructions). I did the right side and found it very difficult to get to the air bag etc. Should I have gone in from the left side instead?
Larry
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-14-2022 at 05:46 PM.
Reason: spaces & CR's ;-)
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|