Do I need a dealer and BUDS to reset my fault codes??

[laser1972]

I have some fault codes, DBS and VSS codes, check engine light comes on and off, when i do the code search (the mode hold and 5 bright clicks of the switch), says NO active codes..

I am wondering if those codes can't be reset without a dealership and their computer

Bike seems to run and start just fine..

Thanks ALL!

I changed the battery, same codes, checked ground, etc... more when the weather gets a little more reasonable here in the mid-west

[Lew L]

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Many codes reset when the cause is fixed............ I would sure check the battery connections. first. Year and model of your ryde is very helpful. Many of us put that info in the signature file.

Lew L

[laser1972]

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Many codes reset when the cause is fixed............ I would sure check the battery connections. first. Year and model of your ryde is very helpful. Many of us put that info in the signature file.

Lew L

sorry 2009 Spyder SM5

I bought a new battery and connections are tight, i had to put in a new ground bolt underneath the seat b/c it was loose and stripped-- guess i should double check that also, but we made sure it was tight and havent rode it

[Peter Aawen]

sorry 2009 Spyder SM5

I bought a new battery and connections are tight, i had to put in a new ground bolt underneath the seat b/c it was loose and stripped-- guess i should double check that also, but we made sure it was tight and havent rode it

Did you put your 'New Battery' on charge for at least 12 hours before installing it?? Have you checked & load tested your 'New Battery' since installing it to make sure it's good & holds a good charge?? Just cos a battery is 'New' it doesn't necessarily mean it's got a proper/full charge or that it's 'good'.

I've seen quite a few 'New Batteries' that were effectively 'dead' on installation!! There's been more than one thread reporting new batteries like that here too!!

If your codes are due to poor voltage/dead battery, then charging your 'New Battery' properly or getting it replaced for one that you KNOW has been put on a charger for at least 8 hours before installation (preferably because you did it yourself ) and that has tested as fully charged & load tested as good should clear all those codes just by connecting it all up & ryding it for a bit, without the need to connect it to BUDS!

[laser1972]

Did you put your 'New Battery' on charge for at least 12 hours before installing it?? Have you checked & load tested your 'New Battery' since installing it to make sure it's good & holds a good charge?? Just cos a battery is 'New' it doesn't necessarily mean it's got a proper/full charge or that it's 'good'.

I've seen quite a few 'New Batteries' that were effectively 'dead' on installation!! There's been more than one thread reporting new batteries like that here too!!

If your codes are due to poor voltage/dead battery, then charging your 'New Battery' properly or getting it replaced for one that you KNOW has been put on a charger for at least 8 hours before installation (preferably because you did it yourself ) and that has tested as fully charged & load tested as good should clear all those codes just by connecting it all up & ryding it for a bit, without the need to connect it to BUDS!

Yes when the battery came in the mail, it wasnt charged, so i had it on the charger overnight and put it in the next day

I have left it for a few days and the battery still starts the bike right up, maybe I do need to ride it a bit to clear the codes, just dont want it to go into limp mode (It never has done that, but still..)

I might try the other suggestion to touch the leads for 30 sec and see if it clears the codes or not, then next would be test the battery with a meter to see if the battery has correct voltage

T
Thanks for all the advice and help!...

[Peter Aawen]

Yes when the battery came in the mail, it wasnt charged, so i had it on the charger overnight and put it in the next day

I have left it for a few days and the battery still starts the bike right up, maybe I do need to ride it a bit to clear the codes, just dont want it to go into limp mode (It never has done that, but still..)

I might try the other suggestion to touch the leads for 30 sec and see if it clears the codes or not, then next would be test the battery with a meter to see if the battery has correct voltage

T
Thanks for all the advice and help!...

I'd do that first!!

If the battery wasn't charged at all before you got it, chances are it REALLY needed a good 12+ hour charge to bring it up to speed AND some ryding there-after! Every start you try will effectively need about 30 mins of ryding at hwy speeds to properly replenish the drain the attempted start, so given what you're seeing now, just check it!!

Connect a multi-meter across the battery terminals (correct pos/neg connections please! ) before you try anything to check that there's 12.5 plus volts in there when the battery is resting & unused for some hours (8+... ); then watch to make sure that it doesn't drop below about 12 volts when you just turn the ign on; that it stays above 10.6 - 11 volts while the starter is actually cranking (or while the solenoid is clicking... ) and then IF it happens to start, it should show about 13.6 or more volts with the engine running at a fast idle.... All that's not as good as a proper load test, but it'll give you an idea of the battery's state of charge.

[Little Blue]

The codes will stay in the bikes 'Black Box'. That being said you can not delete the Fault codes. Only the Dealers and BRP will be able to delete most codes. You Know 'insurance protection' for the Dealer and BRP. ......

[spyder01]

When the problems go away the light will go off but just in case clear the codes by disconnecting the battery and touch the positive and the negative leads together for 30 seconds to clear the memory from the computer.If the same codes come back you definitely have a problem.