Anyone tried VALVOLINE™ 4-STROKE FULL SYNTHETIC" Motorcycle Oil?

[K80Shooter]

Been reading the current Shell T6 oil thread and thought that I would ask about this oil.

I currently run Valvoline Full Synthetic in all my other vehicles so thought why not in my Spyder.

Has anyone had any negative effects using it? It meets all the requirements listed in the owners manual and the cost per quart is reasonable at $7.37 per quart.

Has anyone had a oil analysis done using this oil? Would you mind sharing it here? Any long time users here?

I am talking about the Valvoline 4-Stroke Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil in 10w40

I also thought that I'd mention that I did call the Valvoline hotline support number but they wont make a recommendation either way as they say that Can-Am will not release any of the specs on their oil. But again it meets all the specs listed in the owners manual unless I'm missing something.

[troop]

I've used it in the past. It will work just fine, with no worries.

[PMK]

Not sure if that oil was tested by 540rat. Of the motorcycle specific oils rated for wet clutches, 540rat found a very expensive Motul product tested well, unfortunately it is 5w30.

Mobil 1 10w40 Sportbike Oil was rated #104

Rotella T6 5w40 was rated #218

Valvoline 10w40 motorcycle oil, but says conventional was rated #225

Spectro 10w40 was rated #239

There were other motorcycle oils listed, either they were not 40wt or they were not wet clutch rated.

Understand also, the ranking of #104 for the Mobil 1 is in a rating list against automotive, marine, race car, and even aviation oils. Possibly there is an acceptable automotive oil in there somewhere that is good also. You just need to read, learn and decide.

A google search for 540rat will give hours of entertainment, but to be quicker about it, you can simply read the rankings of each oil he independently tests. Yes Rotella T6 5w40 is ranked also.

[K80Shooter]

Not sure if that oil was tested by 540rat. Of the motorcycle specific oils rated for wet clutches, 540rat found a very expensive Motul product tested well, unfortunately it is 5w30.

Mobil 1 10w40 Sportbike Oil was rated #104

Rotella T6 5w40 was rated #218

Valvoline 10w40 motorcycle oil, but says conventional was rated #225

Spectro 10w40 was rated #239

There were other motorcycle oils listed, either they were not 40wt or they were not wet clutch rated.

Understand also, the ranking of #104 for the Mobil 1 is in a rating list against automotive, marine, race car, and even aviation oils. Possibly there is an acceptable automotive oil in there somewhere that is good also. You just need to read, learn and decide.

A google search for 540rat will give hours of entertainment, but to be quicker about it, you can simply read the rankings of each oil he independently tests. Yes Rotella T6 5w40 is ranked also.

I searched for the 540rat postings and all the charts that I found were older and did not list the full synthetic valvoline 4-stroke motorcycle oil (unless I missed it) but it is nice to see where the others are listed.

[PMK]

I searched for the 540rat postings and all the charts that I found were older and did not list the full synthetic valvoline 4-stroke motorcycle oil (unless I missed it) but it is nice to see where the others are listed.

One thing in regards to 540rats blog, it is somewhat of a living document, not a published and done type document. He posts many years of testing oils results. As you scroll through, you might have noticed how some oils will have been tested say 5 years ago, then retested years later after a change is made.

When I began using 540rats oil blog there was maybe 140 total tests done. Now he has done well over 200 tests. He does not delete any as far as I can tell. Merely keeps adding to the list of oils tested. He has even had to add new performance categories as newer oils have surpassed his previous ranges of classifying the oils performance.

Agreed, I did not see the Valvoline synthetic on his results of oils tested. If available, it seems a better approach might be to use an oil he has tested, that you have access to, even if a few dollars more, provided you have no other concerns.

[K80Shooter]

One thing in regards to 540rats blog, it is somewhat of a living document, not a published and done type document. He posts many years of testing oils results. As you scroll through, you might have noticed how some oils will have been tested say 5 years ago, then retested years later after a change is made.

When I began using 540rats oil blog there was maybe 140 total tests done. Now he has done well over 200 tests. He does not delete any as far as I can tell. Merely keeps adding to the list of oils tested. He has even had to add new performance categories as newer oils have surpassed his previous ranges of classifying the oils performance.

Agreed, I did not see the Valvoline synthetic on his results of oils tested. If available, it seems a better approach might be to use an oil he has tested, that you have access to, even if a few dollars more, provided you have no other concerns.

No other concerns, Like I posted I have used Valvoline in everything I own with no problems so just thought I'd stick to it but I am certainly open to others. I am curious if anyone here has done a used oil test on it just to see the numbers. I have researched Mobil 1, Rotella T6, Amsoil and a few others. I have roughly 800 miles to my 3000 mile service and am just trying to decide which way to go. I don't mind paying a few dollars extra but I cant see paying twice the price.

[PMK]

No other concerns, Like I posted I have used Valvoline in everything I own with no problems so just thought I'd stick to it but I am certainly open to others. I am curious if anyone here has done a used oil test on it just to see the numbers. I have researched Mobil 1, Rotella T6, Amsoil and a few others. I have roughly 800 miles to my 3000 mile service and am just trying to decide which way to go. I don't mind paying a few dollars extra but I cant see paying twice the price.

Had a few minutes so gave a look. Entirely your call as to what oil you prefer to use.

Gave a look at the Valvoline Full Synthetic oil being mentioned. This is the link to the spec page. Noticed that the highest API rating is SJ. Then checked the 2021 Spyder RT Operators Manual for minimum oil API ratings. The Can Am manual states SJ as the minimum rating for oil used. The best rating suggested was SN. In simple terms, typical an SN rated oil is certified to a higher performance standard. Yes, the SN standard is a later generation oil so to speak.

So, while the Valvoline Synthetic meets the 2021 minimum oil requirement for a 1330 Spyder, the Valvoline oil is at the peak of its certified rating. Yes acceptable, but without a buffer.

For comparison, Mobil 1 10w40 Sportbike oil has an SN rating. As previously mentioned, Shell Rotella T6 5w40 is not gasoline engine rated. Amsoil 10w40 motorcycle oil is SM rated. All three are Jaso MA / MA2 rated.

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publi...2-ac162d889bd1

[Sarge707]

Valvoline is all I used in my GS, RT, and F3. JASO MA2 and good synthetic oil.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I used it until I found Rotella T-6 ..... if you use re-bate, it's quite a bit less expensive ..... and it works well for me ..... jmho .... Mike

[PMK]

I used it until I found Rotella T-6 ..... if you use re-bate, it's quite a bit less expensive ..... and it works well for me ..... jmho .... Mike

Guy that previously posted here, Spyder tech too, showed me the 540rat site.
In a similar way they test tires and rate them fairly, this guy does the same, and independently for oils. 540rat compares each oil against his machine. The value the machine determines is where the oil is placed in the rankings. He even does testing at more than one temp and often to ultimate oil breakdown. He really has an informative blog about oil and opinions or sponsorship is not an influence.

Agree the Shell Rotella T6 does cost less than other oils.

When you see the actual numbers behind the ratings, how the oils are tested, and where they stack up, his testing is a valid test method and repeatable. Better still, as oils are changed over the years, 540rat even makes mention of this.

[ulflyer]

K80, just my 2 cents worth: I believe if you change oil early, say 5K or so, any JasoM2 is more than sufficient. If you intend to run the full 9K, I'd suggest a top brand like Motul, Amsoil, etc. Not knocking any of the others as I have not in recent years done any oil tests. Oil is a hot button on any forum as we all have opinions. Go with your gut and try them all. Cheers.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

K80, just my 2 cents worth: I believe if you change oil early, say 5K or so, any JasoM2 is more than sufficient. If you intend to run the full 9K, I'd suggest a top brand like Motul, Amsoil, etc. Not knocking any of the others as I have not in recent years done any oil tests. Oil is a hot button on any forum as we all have opinions. Go with your gut and try them all. Cheers.

..... Also consider this .... engine failure do to using a LOWER QUALITY oil vs. the HIGHEST Quality is so small it's probably meaningless. ...JMHO .... Mike

[Deanna777]

Been reading the current Shell T6 oil thread and thought that I would ask about this oil.

I currently run Valvoline Full Synthetic in all my other vehicles so thought why not in my Spyder.

Has anyone had any negative effects using it? It meets all the requirements listed in the owners manual and the cost per quart is reasonable at $7.37 per quart.

Has anyone had a oil analysis done using this oil? Would you mind sharing it here? Any long time users here?

I am talking about the Valvoline 4-Stroke Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil in 10w40

I also thought that I'd mention that I did call the Valvoline hotline support number but they wont make a recommendation either way as they say that Can-Am will not release any of the specs on their oil. But again it meets all the specs listed in the owners manual unless I'm missing something.

I use the Valvoline 4-stroke Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil 10w -40 I have since 2015. I have have had any problems.

The Valvoline 4 stroke oil is formulated for the specific needs of high performance 4 storke motorcycles, including high temp., high RPMS and WET Clutch systems.

Full synthetic formula for the ultimate protection against wear, deposits and corrosion that can decrease engine performance..

Developed with advanced additives to resist oil thickening and maximize horsepower.

Outstanding wet clutch protection for maximum power transfer & smooth shifting.

Meets or exceeds JASO MA2. This oil is the gray bottle. I got my on line.

Deanna

[K80Shooter]

Thanks Deanna777, I knew that you used it and also saw where you were going to do the oil sample when you change oil next. Looking forward to seeing the results.

Also how many miles are you running between oil changes?

[Deanna777]

Thanks Deanna777, I knew that you used it and also saw where you were going to do the oil sample when you change oil next. Looking forward to seeing the results.

Also how many miles are you running between oil changes?

You are Welcome! When I get chance ( life gets in the way) I'll do a oil sample and post the results.

Roughly 700 miles ( life gets in the way!, I in a "life curve now) or once a motorcycle season( April to Oct.).

Deanna

[Deanna777]

Thanks Deanna777, I knew that you used it and also saw where you were going to do the oil sample when you change oil next. Looking forward to seeing the results.

Also how many miles are you running between oil changes?

K80Shooter, Today I ordered the Oil test kit from a local Auto parts store, I'll pick up the test kit next week. Sat or Sunday Oct. 29th or 30th I'll change my oil in my spyder.

Once I get the Oil test's back I'll post on this site/ thread.


Deanna

[Little Blue]

K80Shooter, Today I ordered the Oil test kit from a local Auto parts store, I'll pick up the test kit next week. Sat or Sunday Oct. 29th or 30th I'll change my oil in my spyder.

Once I get the Oil test's back I'll post on this site/ thread.


Deanna

I will be waiting for the oil lab report.
Thanks, Have a good day. 👍

[PMK]

K80Shooter, Today I ordered the Oil test kit from a local Auto parts store, I'll pick up the test kit next week. Sat or Sunday Oct. 29th or 30th I'll change my oil in my spyder.

Once I get the Oil test's back I'll post on this site/ thread.


Deanna

Please realize that the oil sample you extract should be after a reasonable run and driving time to blend all contaminants. Also, the oil sample should be taken as quickly as practical after shutdown.
I may be wrong, but your words make it sound as if you are waiting to get the oil sample kit, but will accomplish the oil change without the sample jar. If so, are you planning to retain the drained oil, then sample the drained oil days later?

I hope you have the time and sample kit to correctly take the oil sample, as many people are curious

[Deanna777]

Please realize that the oil sample you extract should be after a reasonable run and driving time to blend all contaminants. Also, the oil sample should be taken as quickly as practical after shutdown.
I may be wrong, but your words make it sound as if you are waiting to get the oil sample kit, but will accomplish the oil change without the sample jar. If so, are you planning to retain the drained oil, then sample the drained oil days later?

I hope you have the time and sample kit to correctly take the oil sample, as many people are curious

PMK,


I did get the oil sample kit. The Auto parts store had to order it.

I took an oil sample while I was doing the oil change on my Spyder. I did get a call from the Lab, they wanted to confirm the oil sample was mine, so now I am just waiting to get the oil sample results. As soon as I get the oil sample results, I'll post on this thread. I know a lot of people are curious on this site about the oil sample results.

Deanna

[PMK]

PMK,


I did get the oil sample kit. The Auto parts store had to order it.

I took an oil sample while I was doing the oil change on my Spyder. I did get a call from the Lab, they wanted to confirm the oil sample was mine, so now I am just waiting to get the oil sample results. As soon as I get the oil sample results, I'll post on this thread. I know a lot of people are curious on this site about the oil sample results.

Deanna

Just for what its worth, and having done a lot of oil samples on aircraft engines, taking the oil sample requires a certain method for accurate results. Typically, the engine oil must be a full operating temperature and have run for several minutes minimum at that temperature. The oil sample should be collected as soon as immediately after shutting down the engine. The oil sample should be taken after a portion of the oil has begun draining but should not be the last oil drained out.

When oil samples are done in this manner, consistent report data can be determined to monitor trends. These trends include analysis of metallic wear particles, and levels of other elements including Silica and more. The trending determines health of the component from a wear standpoint, but is not always an indicator of catastrophic impending failure.

The typical focus in this group is the oils ability to survive molecular shearing. This is important but not entirely critical. Yes, owners here will use this information to better understand oil change intervals. While that information can be valuable, it must be utilized with caution. Here is why. The modern engine in almost every vehicle or machine is very easy on oil. Granted race or high performance will strain oil more, but in general, most engines do not wear out oil by shearing. Engines have very few internal parts that will shear the molecules. Typically, but not limited to are the cams sliding across buckets or lifters are the main culprits. Other items such as bearing, journals, pistons etc either are pressure fed or have extremely large surface areas to lessen applied surface loads.

So then, even the engine portion of the most abused by riding Spyder will not over tax an oil to failure.

Spyders, and most motorcycles utilize a shared oil system for both the gearbox / clutch, and the engine. Regarding molecular oil shearing, none of the wear components within the gearbox are pressure fed oil. This alone is a huge factor in tearing oil molecules apart. Without pressure, the oil itself must provide 100% of the film strength. The smaller the measured area between the two wear surfaces, the greater the actual pressure that is applied into the oils film.

Additionally, the mechanics of how two gear teeth interface, not only shows a very narrow contact patch, but also, the gear teeth are actually sliding across each other at extremely high pressures. These two factors basically shred the oil molecules, tearing them apart and reducing viscosity.

The modern wet clutch is an amazing device. For such a unit to smoothly harness all the transmitted power at full lock up, while bathed in slippery oil is incredible. In general though, a wet clutch has such a large surface area, and is fibre against metal, so while it does shear oil molecules, it is minor compared to the gearbox.

What this all means, if you have, or anyone has accomplished an oil sample correctly, that is wonderful. Done incorrectly is less wonderful. The real data though is in general applicable to your machine, and yours alone. Let me explain. Since we now understand the gearbox is the primary basis for shearing oil molecules, understanding how the owner rides is a HUGE factor in this shearing process. A rider that seldom accelerates hard, induces less strain into the gears. Someone that shifts at lower rpm, induces less strain into the gears. Owners in mountainous or hilly areas will induce more shearing than an owner that lives in flatter locations. Those that ride solo vs two up, or those that pull a trailer and so much more, are all relevant oil shearing factors.

This is very important to understand when owners compare oil sample reports. There can be great info that shares well, but typically, as I mentioned, each oil sample is specific to that owner and vehicle.

Years ago, others accomplished oil samples on Mobil 1 10w40 Racing 4t motorcycle oil. Having used this oil in our Spyder since draining the break in oil, I was curious of the results. The results of other owners oil sample test gave me a good basis of what to expect.

Knowing oil is not merely a mileage interval for being changed, or in some cases based on owners oil sample data, but importantly, also a calendar interval I utilize all that information when I decide on the oil change interval I would use. No I do not accomplish oil samples on our Spyder, but utilized info posted here and leaned towards generous safety margins.

Also, for anyone that has followed along, be aware, that with multi grade oils, it is common that the wider viscosity spreads such as 5w40 will shear earlier than a 10w40 of two similar quality oils. Part of this reverts to film strength between the two gears. Both oils when hot will become a viscosity of 40. However when cold, the 5w is in simple terms 1/2 the viscosity of the 10w. This thinner oil has less ability to withstand high pressure loads between gear teeth. This can shear oil sooner or possibly increase wear.

I did not take the time to post all of this to create and oil debate or war. Stating merely some of the oil stuff in simple terms. All the best to each of you in deciding what oil to use and what interval to change it at.

Moderators please understand this is not an attack at Deana so please do not delete this effort.

[K80Shooter]

K80Shooter, Today I ordered the Oil test kit from a local Auto parts store, I'll pick up the test kit next week. Sat or Sunday Oct. 29th or 30th I'll change my oil in my spyder.

Once I get the Oil test's back I'll post on this site/ thread.


Deanna

Thanks Deanna

[K80Shooter]

"So, while the Valvoline Synthetic meets the 2021 minimum oil requirement for a 1330 Spyder, the Valvoline oil is at the peak of its certified rating. Yes acceptable, but without a buffer."

Thank You PMK

[K80Shooter]

Thanks to all that have replied. I have decided which way I am going to go.

Lots of information and several good oils out there including all thats mentioned in this thread. I do feel that any "Full Synthetic" that meets the requirements are better than the semi-synthetic that BRP wants us to use.

[Bensonoid]

The Valvoline I just poured in mine is rated SL, maybe the next batch I order will be SM or SN.20211020_183206~2.jpg

[PMK]

The Valvoline I just poured in mine is rated SL, maybe the next batch I order will be SM or SN.20211020_183206~2.jpg

That is both encouraging and discouraging at the same time. My reference was to Valvolines current published information taken from their website. Listing oil as SJ is discouraging.
It is encouraging that the oil you purchased is rated higher.

Myself, I would still be hesitant unless the oil were tested by 540rat. But as we known have used it without short term issues in regards to gearbox wear.

It seems one owner will accomplish a SOAP sample of this oil. Ideally the oil has at least 5000 miles or more on it. Anything less should come back as virtually new oil. With that, I hope the person correctly collects the sample for accurate results.