Spyder rt extra wires

[Bear61]

Does anyone know where these wires belong. I have several codes that come and go. took it to the shop and they said it wouldn't be worth the money to track down the problem so I'm looking for any obvious problems and found these two pairs of wires not attached to anything. Thanks for any advise.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hi Bear. Just a little confusion with this post. The heading in the forum says that this post is about a 998cc engine, so that's good. Your title says it is about extra wires in an RT, but this thread is in the ST shop talk forum. So, maybe when you get a chance, you can add which year and model of Spyder you are asking about, as well as what codes you are getting.

However, Based on the 998cc hint, here's a stab at your wires.

Picture #1 - Not sure what you are trying to convey. Those wires and that plug are connected or at least they should be. That's your Throttle Body Actuator.
Picture #2 and #3. Thats the plug that goes to the vacuum assist solenoid for those that have a manual clutch and SM5 transmission. I can see that you don't have that because the vacuum port has the rubber plug on it. But they run the harness, anyway. You have the SE5, correct?
Picture #4 - Appears to be the connector for the optional front storage area power plug, which most folks don't have. They run the harness and leave it up under the body by the left front shock.

So, I doubt that any of those items are responsible for codes, however, you have a good questioning attitude. As said, if you give us the full download on what machine you have and what codes you are getting, maybe we can all get to the bottom of it.

[Bear61]

I'm not sure why it went under the ST bike. I thought I was on the RT one. Anyway, it's a 2011 RT SE5 audio & convienience I Think. Here are all the codes it intermittently shows when it goes into limp mode, C006C, U0126, U0122, U1150, U0259. Thank you so much for looking at this. I truly appreciate any ideas you might have on this. The bike only has just over 7000 miles on it. It started running a little rough so I changed the air filter and the spark plugs. Then it ran much better. Then I had lights come on about brakes, I bled them and those lights cleared up. now the codes I listed keep coming up within 10 minutes after starting. Thanks
Bear61

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Well, maybe one of the Mods will see this and move the thread to the correct forum.

And did you get any of those little warning lights when this happens, such as the ABS or VSS light? So all of those codes have to do with communications over the CAN bus - the low voltage network that all of the computer modules communicate on. If you have already obtained a repair manual from on-line, then you already know what they are. If not, then Google for a repair manual for your Spyder. Should be only 20 bucks for a whole downloaded pdf manual. I'm not going to copy and paste the whole thing here because it's multiple pages in the code table.

This might seem like the kitchen sink...What you can easily and quickly do, and if it was mine what I would do, is inspect all of your wiring harnesses and plugs for damage or looseness. Critters like to chew. Those two plugs that you have in the pictures can be taped up so that their exposed electrical contacts are not coming into contact with anything else. If you do have the optional electrical plug installed in your front storage compartment, then you can plug that back into the rear of that plug assembly. Up in front of the air intake plumbing - check that the plugs on the ECM are properly fastened. I've never heard of one coming loose, but if this is a new to you machine, you never know what the previous owner was up to. Looks like you have it mostly all apart, anyway.

Also right away, what do you know about the battery age and health? Have it load tested or if over 4 or 5 years old, just get a new one. Yeah, it's a pain to get to. While you're thinking about that, when was the last time the battery wiring connections were cleaned and tightened? There's a major system ground connection, to the frame, under the seat on the right hand side. Remove that long right side plastic panel so you can access the nut for the bolt under the frame piece. Remove and clean all of those connections and put everything back together. Be careful under there, because there's a hot wire from the battery going to that fuse panel.

Up in front you have your fuse and relay panel. Remove and reseat all of your relays. Clean their little plug pins if necessary. It won't hurt to remove and reseat the fuses, either.

While the engine is running, put a multimeter on the battery connections and ensure that the charging system is supplying a constant voltage between 13 and 14 Volts at 4000 RPM. The codes indicated loss of communications to almost all of the modules, especially the VCM. But, others were affected. That's why I'm looking at a system wide electrical issue rather than an individual component issue.

P.S. I was looking back through the forum at history on those codes. If you happen to have any aftermarket lighting, such as a third brake light, disconnect that and see if there is any change. Good luck.

[Bear61]

When I first bought the bike, new, the dealership installed the tow package and I installed a battery tender. Those are the only things added to the bike. Thanks again

[Bear61]

Sorry one last note, Lights, DPS most of the time but steering works perfect, VSS and sometimes Transmission but it usually clears right away.

[Bear61]

Now I’m getting two fault codes C006C and U0126. Does anyone have any ideas?two lights one looks like squiggly lines and the other is limp mode. Thanks for looking
Bear

[Bfromla]

Found on spyderCodes app
C006C: can bus communication not reliable, no external test available.
U0126: loss communication with SAS (Steering angle sensor) possible damaged pins/wires on DPS or SAS. Guessing the SAS is quite possibly source of both codes.
Additional question; Have you recently had alignment checked?