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  1. #1
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    Default Belt Adjustment fixed the squealing!

    Its amazing how many noises a misaligned belt causes. Adjusted mine today and wow, no more squealing. I did find out that my rear tire is kinda out of round though.

    Just one more thing...
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-10-2021 at 06:09 PM. Reason: Id di = I did ;-)

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Boy yours must have been really out to squeal!!!!! How many miles did you ride it like that, not many I hope???
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  3. #3
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    Not too many, the squeal didn't start until after I changed the rear brake caliper. So probably 70 or so total. It was weird though. It would only do it, or at least that I could hear, in first gear between 18-21 MPH.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-20-2021 at 06:47 PM. Reason: It... ;-)

  4. #4
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    OK, the squeal is back and progressing. In addition, the belt moves back to the right lip not too long after every adjustment. I've torqued the wheel nuts to specs both times.

    There is very little red dust on the front pulley. What else can I do?

  5. #5
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    I recall a post where someone recommended applying anti-seize to the axle nut's bearing surface and the washers. He mentioned lowering torque to 114 ft/lbs. He sez this will help maintain the belt adjustment as the axle is tightened.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  6. #6
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    The odd thing is, I checked the gap after I torqued the nuts and it was good. How and why is it moving so quickly after?

  7. #7
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brutusbikes View Post
    The odd thing is, I checked the gap after I torqued the nuts and it was good. How and why is it moving so quickly after?
    It's called "creep." The axle bolt moves as it's tightened. That's why the anti-seize suggestion.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  8. #8
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    A YouTube video shows the guy tightening the axle bolt WHILE the wheel is spinning. Supposedly that all but eliminates the problem, as minor tweaks can be made with the wheel in motion.

  9. #9
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaniBoy View Post
    A YouTube video shows the guy tightening the axle bolt WHILE the wheel is spinning. Supposedly that all but eliminates the problem, as minor tweaks can be made with the wheel in motion.
    Yes, carefully done, it's the best way to go about it. You might want to remove the wheel sensor to avoid codes. But those will self clear after some miles even if you don't.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

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  10. #10
    Very Active Member Isopedella's Avatar
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    I watched the bloke do the alignment while running, then went out and had a go myself.
    It took me 3 goes as it moved as I did the final tighten but I got it sorted. I felt like Captain Kirk as I knew diddle squat about these Spyders.
    The error codes showed but cleared after I rode it only a few meters (whew).

    Those Gates v belt tension gauge I soon learned is an essential too if you do any work that involves the belt tension or rear wheel adjustment.

  11. #11
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brutusbikes View Post
    OK, the squeal is back and progressing. In addition, the belt moves back to the right lip not too long after every adjustment. I've torqued the wheel nuts to specs both times.

    There is very little red dust on the front pulley. What else can I do?
    Drive belt movement is NORMAL .... I watched a " U-tube " video and saw the belt is constantly moving side to side while the Spyder is being driven ..... Mike

  12. #12
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Isopedella View Post
    I watched the bloke do the alignment while running, then went out and had a go myself.
    It took me 3 goes as it moved as I did the final tighten but I got it sorted. I felt like Captain Kirk as I knew diddle squat about these Spyders.
    The error codes showed but cleared after I rode it only a few meters (whew).

    Those Gates v belt tension gauge I soon learned is an essential too if you do any work that involves the belt tension or rear wheel adjustment.
    Leaving the axle nut as tight as possible, while still allowing the adjusters to move it when tightening, will prevent belt creep as you retighten the axle nut. You always want to finish by tightening the adjusters. If you try to adjust by loosening the adjusters, it will be a hassle because you either have to leave the axle nut so loose that tension and adjustment will change when you tighten the axle nut. Or, you have to loosen the axle nut, pound the tire forward to take out the slack on the adjusters, then tighten the axle nut. Again, just loose enough to allow the adjusters to move the axle.

    It really isn't all that difficult to do it yourself. It's nice to see results immediately.

    The Gates tension gauge is an excellent tool. I carry mine everywhere. Mostly because people would like me to check their belt tension at shows and meets.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





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