Tire availability? 165/55R15

[bayoumanPIBE]

So, this week...I had a different Spyder dealer replace my new stock front Kendas with new Continental ContiProContact 165/60R-15. The shaking in the bike only eased up a little...I cannot tell much of a difference. Now, when I put my feet on the front fenders at 55-70mph, the fenders still barely bounce. I hardly feel anything within my feet, and the fenders look steady. So, it was NOT the tires.

Please do not criticize me for replacing the new front stock Kendas...if you were to feel what I am still feeling, then you might understand why I changed them out...desperation comes to mind.

At some point when I began reaching out for help, I mistakenly used the word "vibrations" instead of "shaking"...big difference. Look...I know it is hard to diagnose things like this virtually. This week's change of tires and adjusting the belt tension are the last two ideas I have. And, some think I'm just being too picky or gripping the bars too tight or what-not...but, my particular situation is nothing of the sort. I wish I could explain the shaking better or let some of ya'll ride, but that probably will not happen.

The overall ride is still bad over 55mph-ish with the shaking starting lightest in my feet up and gets worse up through my body and to my head which can feel like it's buffeting. And, it is not from what little wind is hitting me. The windshield does shake a lot, but it's not the wind...it is shaking from the dash shaking. And, at times the dash shakes to the point where the speakers distort. I can't make this up.

Under 55mph, she rides really smooth...then it all begins to turn into shaking and progressively gets worse the higher the mph...never smooths back out...even on the smoothest of black-top. However, I will must point out...the shaking some times does feel to ease up only a little at higher RPM's in 5th gear over 65mph and at times in 6th over 80mph. I realize some of these bikes like to run high within the RPM's...so, I have been trying different riding styles. It is not the riding style...unfortunately.

I have ridden other Spyder models including F3's and the new 2021 stock F3 as well...all ride a lot smother than mine.

The day after I got the new tires, I had the dealership lower the belt tension from 242lbs to 220lbs. It did help smooth her out some, but the ride should be better. The mechanic told me he could feel it as well. They were kind enough to squeeze me in one morning, since it was about a 20 min process. But, they couldn't keep testing various belt tensions with me due to their pre-scheduled customers. Plus, they were hesitant with lowering the belt tension more. Plus #2, I would prefer to lower the belt tension myself and save some money from trying to fix the issue.

I have read many posts around the net where some lowered their belt tension below 200, and it helped them (to what they consider perfection). I am thinking I may want to lower mine some more, but I hate having to pay a dealership to keep adjusting it.

I am capable of doing it myself and want to learn. The only video I can find shows the rear end of what looks like a GS or ST...but, it looks similar to my 2021 F3 Ltd.

1. Can anyone verify if this video demo for adjusting the belt tension is still possibly one correct method, is the hardest method, etc.?
2. If anyone else has lowered their belt tension due to shaking, please share your belt tension reading and if it helped.
3. If possible...can anyone (in layman’s terms) briefly explain why lowering the belt tension would smooth out shaking on some bikes. It seems to me the looser the belt, the rougher the ride.

If I did not already mention this...I do have a SpyderExtras belt tensioner.

Also, about a month ago, BRP closed out my ticket the original dealership opened due to the aftermarket items on my bike and everything being up-to-spec. So, I am really on my own now...

I am trying really hard to remain optimistic she will ride as expected at some point.

[TheHammer2021]

Im going to give these a try on the front of my 2014 Spyder RT.
Unless anyone has thoughts otherwise?

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...omCompare1=yes

[bayoumanPIBE]

When watching the video on how to adjust the belt tension (mentioned above), the nut on the right side of the axle shows a cotter pin which the poster states to loosen the nut up til the pin and you don't have to remove it. HOWEVER, mine does not have a cotter pin in the axle security catch to prevent the large nut from coming off...this does not look safe...mechanic told me this should not be an issue to not have one in there...can anyone verify if this is correct...?

[ARtraveler]

What's wrong with the OEM Kenda tires? I have close to 3000 miles on them with no grip or ride comfort issues and they are wearing nicely.

You are a bit new here...and YES, there is lots of information about tires and Kenda's in general.

I am one of the few on the site that has NOT had a bad experience with Kenda OEM's. I have owned seven Spyders since 2008 when they first came out. My experience across the board, 15K on rear tires and 20+K on front tires.

I tried "darkside" tires on our 2011 and 2014 RT's...but the jury is out. Both sets had less than 20K on them when traded off. I currently have Kenda K9's on my 2020 F3. 5K on the rear and brand new on the front. The jury is out, for me, on them. Check back in a year or slightly more. This go around, I wanted "darkside," but...current availability was nil. I took what I could get.

I have no arguments with any of the others that don't like Kenda. I do what I have to do to keep riding, and need a place to put them on and take them off for me.

[davev1pa]

So, this week...I had a different Spyder dealer replace my new stock front Kendas with new Continental ContiProContact 165/60R-15. The shaking in the bike only eased up a little...I cannot tell much of a difference. Now, when I put my feet on the front fenders at 55-70mph, the fenders still barely bounce. I hardly feel anything within my feet, and the fenders look steady. So, it was NOT the tires.

Please do not criticize me for replacing the new front stock Kendas...if you were to feel what I am still feeling, then you might understand why I changed them out...desperation comes to mind.





At some point when I began reaching out for help, I mistakenly used the word "vibrations" instead of "shaking"...big difference. Look...I know it is hard to diagnose things like this virtually. This week's change of tires and adjusting the belt tension are the last two ideas I have. And, some think I'm just being too picky or gripping the bars too tight or what-not...but, my particular situation is nothing of the sort. I wish I could explain the shaking better or let some of ya'll ride, but that probably will not happen.

The overall ride is still bad over 55mph-ish with the shaking starting lightest in my feet up and gets worse up through my body and to my head which can feel like it's buffeting. And, it is not from what little wind is hitting me. The windshield does shake a lot, but it's not the wind...it is shaking from the dash shaking. And, at times the dash shakes to the point where the speakers distort. I can't make this up.

Under 55mph, she rides really smooth...then it all begins to turn into shaking and progressively gets worse the higher the mph...never smooths back out...even on the smoothest of black-top. However, I will must point out...the shaking some times does feel to ease up only a little at higher RPM's in 5th gear over 65mph and at times in 6th over 80mph. I realize some of these bikes like to run high within the RPM's...so, I have been trying different riding styles. It is not the riding style...unfortunately.

I have ridden other Spyder models including F3's and the new 2021 stock F3 as well...all ride a lot smother than mine.

The day after I got the new tires, I had the dealership lower the belt tension from 242lbs to 220lbs. It did help smooth her out some, but the ride should be better. The mechanic told me he could feel it as well. They were kind enough to squeeze me in one morning, since it was about a 20 min process. But, they couldn't keep testing various belt tensions with me due to their pre-scheduled customers. Plus, they were hesitant with lowering the belt tension more. Plus #2, I would prefer to lower the belt tension myself and save some money from trying to fix the issue.

I have read many posts around the net where some lowered their belt tension below 200, and it helped them (to what they consider perfection). I am thinking I may want to lower mine some more, but I hate having to pay a dealership to keep adjusting it.

I am capable of doing it myself and want to learn. The only video I can find shows the rear end of what looks like a GS or ST...but, it looks similar to my 2021 F3 Ltd.

1. Can anyone verify if this video demo for adjusting the belt tension is still possibly one correct method, is the hardest method, etc.?
2. If anyone else has lowered their belt tension due to shaking, please share your belt tension reading and if it helped.
3. If possible...can anyone (in layman’s terms) briefly explain why lowering the belt tension would smooth out shaking on some bikes. It seems to me the looser the belt, the rougher the ride.

If I did not already mention this...I do have a SpyderExtras belt tensioner.

Also, about a month ago, BRP closed out my ticket the original dealership opened due to the aftermarket items on my bike and everything being up-to-spec. So, I am really on my own now...

I am trying really hard to remain optimistic she will ride as expected at some point.

I use the Kritkat II and have the belt tension set at 190-200lbs on both my RTs..The video you mention is one I watched as well for alignment/tension. I've replaced both rear tires ( not too scary and once you commit lol there's no turning back). I adjust alignment with wheel in motion. The belt can travel quite a bit to point of falling off during adjustment. You will be able to incrementally turn the adjustment rods to correct. Now in an ideal world no adjustment is necessary but if you start with a loose belt that's out of alignment you have to do what you gotta do. Caveat: make sure axle is pushed totally forward prior to tightening the bolt. You may have to do this several times...ride around the block etc but generally that's the learning curve and leaving the tire in motion while adjusting is really the best maneuver. I have had vibrations from too loose a belt as well.

[davev1pa]

When watching the video on how to adjust the belt tension (mentioned above), the nut on the right side of the axle shows a cotter pin which the poster states to loosen the nut up til the pin and you don't have to remove it. HOWEVER, mine does not have a cotter pin in the axle security catch to prevent the large nut from coming off...this does not look safe...mechanic told me this should not be an issue to not have one in there...can anyone verify if this is correct...?

Put one in....just a safety precaution

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Im going to give these a try on the front of my 2014 Spyder RT.
Unless anyone has thoughts otherwise?

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...omCompare1=yes

You should scroll down to the survey Stats ..... not very impressive IMHO ....& way more expensive than a Vredestein Quatrac which has a lot better stats ... . Mike

[bayoumanPIBE]

It's been a while since I last posted, but I would put a cotter pin in there...but, there's no hole across from it or adjacent. It's like they missed it during build. I'll need to look at '21 F3 if I can find one...or if anyone finds this post w/a '21, please let me know.

[bayoumanPIBE]

It's been a while since I last posted, but I would put a cotter pin in there...but, there's no hole across from it or adjacent. It's like they missed it during build. I'll need to look at '21 F3 if I can find one... or if anyone finds this post w/a '21, please let me know.

[BadMonk]

My '21 doesn't have a cotter pin on the right rear axle. Don't see anything in the shop manual either.
20220305_190132.jpg

[bayoumanPIBE]

Thank you kindly BadMonk

[bayoumanPIBE]

FYI...too many posts and missing details, so to maintain consistency further posts will be here:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...n-help-shaking

[bayoumanPIBE]

Mine do not look as sharp, but rounded as if pending stripped by an incorrectly used tool. Which is probably why my new wrench doesn't fit tight...more fun.