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Battery Replacement Discussion
On the topic of battery replacement.
How do you know when to replace a battery?
Is there a simple test to determine when your battery is ready to die?
Do you replace batteries on a regular basis (say every 4 to 5 years) or wait till it dies?
Thanks in advance,
Jim
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Very Active Member
I have been lucky in my 50+ years of riding and have never had a battery die on the road. Usually, but not always a battery will give signs that it is going to give up soon. slow cranking or engine failing to start as quickly as it usually does is a good sign it may be battery time. Having your battery load tested can reveal signs of impending doom. I wait until my battery is obviously dying before I replace it, but at four years I start watching more closely. I have always got four to five years out of my motorcycle batteries regardless of manufacturer. I do use a tender in the winter months and I always kept tabs on the acid level in the old batteries. The newer batteries don't require as much inspection and care. One thing you can't put a price on is peace of mind. If it is starting to be a concern then by all means replace it. Many go by a set schedule which is fine as well.
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Very Active Member
I agree with Navydad regarding load testing as the most reliable way to measure battery health. I had to replace my first battery at 5 years; I knew it was dying and intentionally let it die on the road so I could live fire test my Rugged Geek jump pack, https://www.lamonstergarage.com/rg12...ing-lamonster/. I actually spent more time in a Walmart parking lot explaining what I was doing to people who offered assistance than it did to jump start the Spyder. The Rugged Geek, my emergency compressor and Stop & Go tire plugging kit are mainstay items in my on the road tool kit.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
I onforchetly have had two motorcycle batteries die while on the road. Both in Harleys. I had no warning either time. On my 2014 RT it did give me notice with hard starting when warm, so I was able to replace before it stranded me.
The next replacement was on my wife's 2018 F3. Thankfully it died in our driveway. It may have given us signs, but not ones I associate to a weak battery. The parking brake light would stay on after release. Not always, but more often towards when the battery died. After new battery was installed we never had that issue again.
2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL
Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
but our benefits don't?
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Active Member
Originally Posted by JayBros
I agree with Navydad regarding load testing as the most reliable way to measure battery health. I had to replace my first battery at 5 years; I knew it was dying and intentionally let it die on the road so I could live fire test my Rugged Geek jump pack, https://www.lamonstergarage.com/rg12...ing-lamonster/. I actually spend more time in a Walmart parking lot explaining what I was doing to people who offered assistance than it did to jump start the Spyder. The Rugged Geek, my emergency compressor and Stop & Go tire plugging kit are mainstay items in my on the road tool kit.
What is a live fire test and how do you do it?
Dean Secord AKA seaweed
Veteran: U.S. Air Force
2015 RT-S SE6
My Mods:
TricLed Turn Signal, Squared Away Sept, 2016,SpyderPops Bump Skid, SpyderPops Missing Rock Guard, ION camera, Show Chrome Back Rest,
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Method to open Frunk and seat without using key, LED headlights and LED fog lights, turn signal switch safety mod
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Very Active Member
My Spyder cranked slowly the day before a trip to the gym; that gave me indication battery was about to crap out. Went to gym and home fine. Next day bike cranked fine going to gym and on way to Wally World after work out. When I killed Spyder with kill switch, which I always use, screen on RECC went apes**t. Ran errand at Wally's and when I came out, turned on ignition key and RECC was absolutely blank so I jump started it w/- the Rugged Geek. Live fire is slang for real bullets, not blanks. I knew the battery was going to die so I let it do so the test the jump pack which worked like a champ. It has subsequently saved the bride when her car battery went kaput. Wouldn't travel anywhere with Spyder without it.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
Load test good procedure. Warning signs on low/weak batteries: Slow or hard starts obvious, additionally random & multiple codes showing up more frequently without actual faultscan bus related most do seem to have average 4~5yr life even living on maintainers when at home.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
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SENA 20S EVO
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What I do is; After 3 years of use, I automatically install a new Deka AGM when doing my yearly service...Yes a battery can fail at anytime, even new ones...Yes I may be throwing away several more years of service...
If you have a dash volt meter and the cranking voltage starts to drop below 9.6 volts when starting it may be time...
Load testing a battery with a load tester is a sure way to test the battery's condition...
larryd
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by JimH
On the topic of battery replacement.
How do you know when to replace a battery?
Is there a simple test to determine when your battery is ready to die?
Do you replace batteries on a regular basis (say every 4 to 5 years) or wait till it dies?
Thanks in advance,
Jim
Despite what others do .... I " RE-PLACE ", when it starts to FAIL .... I bought a Lithium Ion battery " JUMPER " ( $40.00 ) just in case I'm on the road.... I've used it for others ... ( they were HAPPY ) ..... good luck .... Mike
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Well I can say mine is a 2014 and still has the original battery. I am going to take out my impedance tester and see what is has left in it.
And I have always used a Battery tender on it.
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Very Active Member
While my bike was manufactured in March 2014 and I purchased it assembled at the dealership in late Sept, I could not find a mfg date on the original battery. One would assume BRP gets large stocks of brand new batteries from Yuasa but you know what assuming can lead to. New battery was not brand new but well within Yuasa spec such that that it did not require charging before use.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Active Member
$150 for a new Yuasa battery is cheap insurance, peace of mind is priceless.
Cheers!
‘21 Honda Rebel 1100 DTC Burgundy
‘13 Spyder RT-L Pearl White
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Should be able to check the serial number for manufacture date or the numbers on the top of the battery. I have to check mine.
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Very Active Member
There was a mfg date on my replacement battery but I did not see one on the original when I specifically looked for it; may have missed it somewhere on the case.
Last edited by JayBros; 10-01-2021 at 08:11 PM.
Reason: spelling
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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I looked at my new battery and did not see one. Have not checked my original battery yet.
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Active Member
thats something to remember I think , I just wonder why the Brake Light stayed on ???
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I bought my 2015 ST Ltd in July 2021. It had the original battery. I put a battery tender on it and after 24 hours it didn't show fully charged. (The charger has a series of LEDs which indicate battery status. Other, healthy, batteries reached full charge in two or three hours.
Trip was coming up, so a new battery went in. It charged fully, using the tender, in less than two hours. Performed well in below-freezing temps in Montana last week.
The tender is my battery health meter.
2015 ST Limited; Givi E52 Top Case; Baja Ron anti-sway bar; Cal Sci wind screen; Vredestein Quatracs (front)
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The battery tender does not always work as advertised at times. Sometimes they do fail.
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