Misfire issue need help

[JG2012]

Hey guys, I need some help here. Recently bought a 2012 Spyder RTL. took it for a couple of short rides and ran good. then all of a sudden started running bad. here are the symptoms.... stalling, front cylinder not firing. has spark and fuel. i replaced the plugs and wires, i also replaced the map sensor for a code it had. i cleaned all the connectors, checked the filters replace the vacuum lines and cleaned the throttle body. i did some testing today and found when the cylinder is misfiring that it is getting spark and fuel. I thought I had an intake valve sticking because you can hear a clacking noise when it misfires and there is air being forced out of the throttle body instead of sucking in, on that front cylinder. I added some Yamalube fuel treatment today hoping if it was a stuck valve that it would free it up. Got everything back together and went for a 20 mile drive. ran great the whole time. i got home and parked it thinking i had solved the problem but when i restarted it, it started misfiring again, so disappointing. I think I have done everything i can at this point and am on the verge of sending to the dealer. I have been a mechanic for 40 years but I don't have the proper diagnostic equipment to work on this. I would appreciate any thought you might have. Thank you

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hey guys, I need some help here. Recently bought a 2012 Spyder RTL. took it for a couple of short rides and ran good. then all of a sudden started running bad. here are the symptoms.... stalling, front cylinder not firing. has spark and fuel. i replaced the plugs and wires, i also replaced the map sensor for a code it had. i cleaned all the connectors, checked the filters replace the vacuum lines and cleaned the throttle body. i did some testing today and found when the cylinder is misfiring that it is getting spark and fuel. I thought I had an intake valve sticking because you can hear a clacking noise when it misfires and there is air being forced out of the throttle body instead of sucking in, on that front cylinder. I added some Yamalube fuel treatment today hoping if it was a stuck valve that it would free it up. Got everything back together and went for a 20 mile drive. ran great the whole time. i got home and parked it thinking i had solved the problem but when i restarted it, it started misfiring again, so disappointing. I think I have done everything i can at this point and am on the verge of sending to the dealer. I have been a mechanic for 40 years but I don't have the proper diagnostic equipment to work on this. I would appreciate any thought you might have. Thank you

IMHO you have done what is Normally needed to fix this issue .... however the early V-twins also had throttle body issues that only " re-placing it " was the cure .... I believe BRP had either a re-call or TBS for the throttle body's .... good luck .... Mike

[MrMagicFingers]

Are there any codes shown?

Tim

[JG2012]

I had a code for a vacuum leak. One of the lines popped off. I replaced the lines and the code went away

[Mikey]

you did replace the two vac lines that are known to crack on that thing, right? Mine went hay wire on me last week and the lines were cracked up bad100_2206.jpg It was staling, running rough, misfiring, the whole ball of wax, runs as smooth as a kitten now!!!

[JG2012]

I had a P2279 and a P0106

[safecracker]

I could not find the P0196, but the P2279.....Intake air system leak, check for cracked Plenum, intake or throttle body air leak. You could have cracked air intake boots. I just had mine replaced about a month ago. They were cracked. Bruce

[JG2012]

my mistake typo p0106 was the code

[JG2012]

The air leak was from the vacuum line that popped off

[Mikey]

It's fixed then?? Great

[JG2012]

No, problem is not fixed. I just was saying that the air leak was from the hose and I replaced those. I'm still having the issues that were mentioned in my initial post in this thread.

[Mikey]

Oh no!!! Sorry Maybe a small sprits of starting fluid may find a leak??

[CopperSpyder]

If you take it apart again look at the intake flanges ( the rubber boots that the throttle bodys attach to ). They can become hardened and crack. With it running you can try spraying soapy water or something non flammable on them to see if there are any bubbles if you don't see cracking.

[BajaRon]

No, problem is not fixed. I just was saying that the air leak was from the hose and I replaced those. I'm still having the issues that were mentioned in my initial post in this thread.

The 2 small vacuum hoses should be tight. If one popped off, it may not be snug enough and may still be leaking. You might try plugging the PCV hose and see if that helps. Another potential source for a vacuum leak.

[JG2012]

The 2 small vacuum hoses should be tight. If one popped off, it may not be snug enough and may still be leaking. You might try plugging the PCV hose and see if that helps. Another potential source for a vacuum leak.

i installed new hoses and they are tight. sprayed everything with carb cleaner and no leaks. a couple of things happen when this occurs. 1) i feel a lot of air being pushed out of the throttle body for that cylinder while the other one is sucking in. There is spark when this happens. 2) when I try to accelerate it either just bogs with no throttle response or it will creep foreward with loud banging noise and heavy vibration...

[PMK]

i installed new hoses and they are tight. sprayed everything with carb cleaner and no leaks. a couple of things happen when this occurs. 1) i feel a lot of air being pushed out of the throttle body for that cylinder while the other one is sucking in. There is spark when this happens. 2) when I try to accelerate it either just bogs with no throttle response or it will creep foreward with loud banging noise and heavy vibration...

Suggest, accomplish a compression test. Accomplish both a cranking with throttle bodies removed or throttles wide open. Then accomplish a differential test while preventing crankshaft rotation away from top center. The information from both will indicate your engines mechanical condition of the top end.

[JG2012]

not sure i understand this part... Then accomplish a differential test while preventing crankshaft rotation away from top center.

[PMK]

not sure i understand this part... Then accomplish a differential test while preventing crankshaft rotation away from top center.

Accomplishing the first cranking compression check will provide cranking cylinder PSI and the ability to check for similar PSI.

When accomplishing a differential or leakdown test, ideally you have the ability to bring the cylinder being tested to top center on compression stroke. To prevent crankshaft rotation, since leakdowns are not done with the engine spinning, it is best to use a breaker bar or similar to prevent movement of the crankshaft when air pressure is applied. With the crankshaft held, and moderate, say 40 psi applied into the cylinder via the tool, you can verify if the intake valve, exhaust valve or rings have significant leakage. Most times leakage will be either actual airflow or hearing airflow through the throttle body, exhaust system tailpipe, or dipstick tube.

If the engine moves away from top center, it is possible with the piston near bottom center, a valve may be opened normally and could be mistaken as a concern.