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Thread: Shifting help

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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Default Shifting help

    My 2012 RTL SE5 is locked in reverse. I also cannot get my SHop manual to open up. Can some one look up the the diagnostic steps for me for checking out the grip shifter and also the electronic shift module down on the engine. I have already checked out the little soft metal shift arm, it is fine, oil level is correct and the right type,fuses are fine and no it does not shift into neutral on starting. Thanks for your help.

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    Tring to work out a way to get from the manual to here?
    Last edited by CopperSpyder; 09-09-2021 at 06:24 PM.
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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Thanks Copper, I finally got my copy of the manual to load and work. I appreciate you taking the time to try and get that to me. Now to figure out what isn't working.

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    Hey Paul. Snoopy had a similar issue not too long ago. The shift arm stayed on the shaft and looked just fine, but the splines stripped anyway and it lost its grip. Watch the shift linkage while you’re operating the paddle trying to shift to neutral. See if anything is moving. If the linkage and all is working ok, the arm splines are the problem. Needs replaced.


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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Thanks Doug. I did have that problem once before. I checked that little lever and it seems to be tight. I watched the shift lever and it does not move so that is leading me to think the problem is either in the TCM of the handlebar module. I have the shop manual on a thumb drive but couldn't get it to work. Yesterday afternoon I found the back up I had made and it works just fine. Doing research now but any other thoughts anyone has would be helpfull. BTW all, The oil level is fine.

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    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    You didn’t happen to just do an oil change did you? And, you said that it doesn’t shift to neutral on startup. The paddle shifter isn’t involved with that, right? But, if it was the TCM, I would expect a related code. Hmmmm.

    PS. When you said the fuses are fine, did that include the 20a fuse under the seat?


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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Yes I did just do an oil change but I had been having this problem before and was hoping the fresh oil would solve the problem.I mistook my last oil change date and went about 2000 mi over. Yes I did check the fuse under the seat.
    Thanks for the ideas. No codes showing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    Thanks Doug. I did have that problem once before. I checked that little lever and it seems to be tight. I watched the shift lever and it does not move so that is leading me to think the problem is either in the TCM of the handlebar module. I have the shop manual on a thumb drive but couldn't get it to work. Yesterday afternoon I found the back up I had made and it works just fine. Doing research now but any other thoughts anyone has would be helpfull. BTW all, The oil level is fine.
    Guessing spyder was elevated so movement was full engagement not just a wiggle
    If you have a helper & rear tire off the ground, front tires secure no movement safely; think you could try manually moving arm while helper activates? ** not a suggestion , just a question** Unfortunately the inner splines on the arm do wear easily & cause intermittent failure then finally just give up all together

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    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    Yes I did just do an oil change but I had been having this problem before and was hoping the fresh oil would solve the problem.I mistook my last oil change date and went about 2000 mi over. Yes I did check the fuse under the seat.
    Thanks for the ideas. No codes showing.
    Well, the reason I asked about the oil change is that the HCM oil filter can be accidentally installed backwards. It doesn’t shift at all after that. Unfortunately, without BUDS, this is a lot of guesswork. So, the shift arm spline failure is the most common failure along with the paddle switch or left module. Remember that the back side of the arm is formed such that you can use a wrench to move the arm back and forth. You can shift gears and check for proper operation of the linkage, and ensure that when the arm moves, that the shaft turns with it. And you can get it out of reverse in case you need to move the machine around. The engine doesn’t need to be running, just rock the machine back and forth, just like you would a manual shifter - because that’s what you’re doing. Good luck.


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    Thanks B yes I gave the lever a good tug in either direction and in and out and it is still solid on the splines. I would expect it to be so as it only has 6,or 7000 miles on it. On Monday I and going to do the wrench trick and shift it into Neutral and then see what it will do. Doug my next step is to see if in my hurried state of mind I did put that thing in backwards. I distinctly remember putting the filter end on to the outlet but I have had mirages before, so the cap will come off Monday and I'll see which mirage I am going to believe.

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    Sorry for no updates on the shift problem. We are going on a S x S jamboree this week end and I have been busy getting ready for that. This is our first experience with an S X S and we are really looking forward to a couple of days off roading in the mountains above Manti and the Skyline Drive. I will get back to the Spyder next week. Couldn't get a picture of the Cam Am Commander X to post.

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    Paul, Remember I had a similar problem with my '13 RT-L, it was stuck in 1st gear. Tried this and tried that but finally brought to Young Powersports and they had to reset the TCM to fix the problem. Was not anything mechanical.
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    Thank you for the reminder Trong, I do remember that,and I think they are part of the problem to begin with mine. Besides the last time they had it they broke too many tabs, which if I could prove it, I would be putting them on the hook for it. If I end up going anywhere it will be Moto United or Karl Malone.

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    So the S x S ride was a blast. I am going to try to find time to do more of that. Meanwhile back to the Spyder. I drained the fresh oil out and re examined both filters and as I suspected they were both fine. Now have new oil back in Spyder,still no shift. My manual wont load again so if anyone can email me the testing sequence for the left controller or the TCM I would appreciate it. pdg789@gmail.com. There is no hurry. My back has decided I have waited too long for my cortisone shot and is really acting up to the point I can hardly move.P1100195.jpgP1100191.jpgP1100185.jpgP1100187.jpgP1100164.jpgP1100159.jpgP1100145.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    Sorry for no updates on the shift problem. We are going on a S x S jamboree this week end and I have been busy getting ready for that. This is our first experience with an S X S and we are really looking forward to a couple of days off roading in the mountains above Manti and the Skyline Drive. I will get back to the Spyder next week. Couldn't get a picture of the Cam Am Commander X to post.
    Skyline drive this time of year must be beautiful. And a small 4x4 is the best way to do it. I'm dust-averse though, so no ATV for me!

    Sorry to hear of your Spyder and back problems. Bummer. Do you need help getting your bike to a dealer's?
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    Email sent. But, whatever you do, don't buy a used S2S from NY.

    BTW Pete, I know Utah is a big place. That is a very nice gesture to help out. Appreciate you.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder View Post
    Email sent. But, whatever you do, don't buy a used S2S from NY.


    I know Paul pretty well; even though we live in different parts of Utah, we have discovered some connections other than Spyders. It is a big state and that makes it difficult for Spyder owners to congregate or share resources. I don't mind spending a day helping him out if he needs it.
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    Pete thank you very much for your very kind offer. If I need the help I will get hold of you. At this point I am going to fiddle with it a little more to see if I can diagnose it. My back is starting loosen up, I have been taking it very easy since doing a bunch of shoveling on Saturday.
    No Snowspyder I won't be buying any Spyders anytime soon. I am probably on my last one, tho I do like the new ones. Thank you for the email,now for some study time.

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    Ok back to the Shiftless Spyder. Doug was very kind to send me the appropriate pages out of the manual and Pete offered to come down and help me. My back got all messed up then the weather closed in for a while and I got sick (Not Covid) so I didn't get much done on the Spyder. We did manage to get a couple of loads of wood in, a must do as we heat our home to a large extent with wood. I don't remember who it was, probably BfromLA who suggested it might be the shift arm. I had said I had tried to move it and it seemed solid. I drained out the new oil and checked both filters and they are in correctly. After studying the pages Doug sent I came to the conclusion that since I didn't have BUDS I wasn't going to get very far trying to diagnose the electronics. Besides I am not very good at that. I decided to take the linkage loose so I could manually shift it into Neutral and guess what, the shift arm was loose after all. I thought "no this can't be The Problem. This must be a problem caused by The Problem." I ordered a new one and got it installed last Saturday,but battery was too low to start it. Battery charged, started up the Spyder and it shifted just fine. I will take it for a ride tomorrow to make sure all is well. This really bothers me as this is the 3rd arm I've gone thru this year. I wonder if it is moving the arm too hard or too far when shifting? Any thoughts?
    Thank you all who had ideas for me to try or offered other kinds of help. I really do appreciate all the people here and how helpful they are.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    Ok back to the Shiftless Spyder. Doug was very kind to send me the appropriate pages out of the manual and Pete offered to come down and help me. My back got all messed up then the weather closed in for a while and I got sick (Not Covid) so I didn't get much done on the Spyder. We did manage to get a couple of loads of wood in, a must do as we heat our home to a large extent with wood. I don't remember who it was, probably BfromLA who suggested it might be the shift arm. I had said I had tried to move it and it seemed solid. I drained out the new oil and checked both filters and they are in correctly. After studying the pages Doug sent I came to the conclusion that since I didn't have BUDS I wasn't going to get very far trying to diagnose the electronics. Besides I am not very good at that. I decided to take the linkage loose so I could manually shift it into Neutral and guess what, the shift arm was loose after all. I thought "no this can't be The Problem. This must be a problem caused by The Problem." I ordered a new one and got it installed last Saturday,but battery was too low to start it. Battery charged, started up the Spyder and it shifted just fine. I will take it for a ride tomorrow to make sure all is well. This really bothers me as this is the 3rd arm I've gone thru this year. I wonder if it is moving the arm too hard or too far when shifting? Any thoughts?
    Thank you all who had ideas for me to try or offered other kinds of help. I really do appreciate all the people here and how helpful they are.
    “21 ain’t been too friendly just in general. However progresswith it being THIRD arm in a year definitely something to investigate, maybe getting BRP cares involved. Theoretically maybe if you are manually shifting too soon might cause some issues like grinding gears till grabs on a manual shift. (Theoretically maybe) understandably the arm is softer metal to protect transmission from such forced measures. Good luck thanks for update

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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Thanks B. MY general riding mode is to shift at 6000 and cruise between 4500 and 5000. I hold my hand steady when shifting. There is something going on but it may have to wait till spring for me to spend enough time on it to figure it out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    Thanks B. MY general riding mode is to shift at 6000 and cruise between 4500 and 5000. I hold my hand steady when shifting. There is something going on but it may have to wait till spring for me to spend enough time on it to figure it out.
    When you installed the new arm, if you lined up the dot that is at the end of the shaft, with the slot in the arm, then you have it at the right place. You then have freedom of movement in both directions. The manual transmission shifts by using that same shaft and we don't hear of problems. The foot shifter arm takes all that pounding just fine. So, it would seem like it's just a materials situation with the arm on the SE5 transmission. The gearbox is a standard motorcycle gearbox, the gears are meshed, so I don’t think it’s anything you’re doing.

    Somebody, and I thought it was you, had drilled out the threads in the arm so that they could use a longer bolt and nut configuration to squeeze it together better. Even then, it's still hard to squeeze tighter because, despite there being that slot in it, the arm is solid all the way around. I was hoping by now that some enterprising person would have developed a redesigned one, similar to the windshield arm effort, that could pinch the shaft better. Some drag racer probably has just the thing in their spare parts box, used for a blower linkage.

    Anyway, hope you get to feeling better over the winter. Stay warm.


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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Yes Doug that was me. The arm is quite stiff and really is not going be squeezed very much at all. In putting the nut on the screw I was more concerned with keeping the screw tight as I think it is more of a keeper then a squeezer. The dot and the slot are lined up, Iwas just wondering if in all the messing around with taking the electronic shifter if maybe the travel hadn't been messed up? I'm going to drive it around for awhile today and see what happens. Thank you and others for your help.

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    Today I was looking at the parts diagram for the arm used on the sm5. The bolt is at the end of the arm vice in the middle. It can get a better squeeze that way, and is more like a conventional linkage arm in that respect. That would result in less or no movement between the two parts and less wear. I’m going to have to ask my guy if it could be somehow modified to work on the SE5. Take some measurements. Outside of my lane. Winter project. C ya.


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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    I have a couple of ruined arms I am going to see if I can do something to make it more squeezable so it will clamp tighter. Good luck with your project.

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