On my 2012 RT Limited my riding day Sunday was ruined by the check engine light. When I got home I checked the code and it reads P0443 which is apparently the Evaporation canister purge valve. I have read several times in the past about a canister-ectomy, and it seems that now would be a good time to do this, which solves the problem my question is if there is a problem with the actual purge valve can it be removed. or disconnected, without triggering the fault code or is there a procedure to trick the computer into thinking the valve is still there and functioning properly?
... my question is if there is a problem with the actual purge valve can it be removed. or disconnected, without triggering the fault code or is there a procedure to trick the computer into thinking the valve is still there and funsctioning properly?
Thanks!
Hey...
I have read up on the canister-ectomy quite a bit lately as I have to dive deep again into my wife's 2010 RTS. From what I understand, the purge valve HAS to be there. Computer HAS to see it. I would clean it out so it will activate and not stick if that was it issue. The canister end of the valve HAS to be plugged WELL with no vacuum leaks.
In any respect, I plan on taking out the Canister and putting in a gas tank vent to the rear of the bike, replace the spark plug wires (Already got the BajaRon ones), I have to remove the bloody Throttle Body and clean it GRRRRRRR and properly redoing the crank case vent with Goldwing parts (installing a recovery canister and drain tube from a GL1500). Got a few other things on the menu too.
If these don't fix this bike then it will mysteriously go missing. I am at the end with this bike and there won't be another can-am in my stable ever.
Tim
Current - 2010 Spyder RTS
1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
___
Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.
The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?
I have read up on the canister-ectomy quite a bit lately as I have to dive deep again into my wife's 2010 RTS. From what I understand, the purge valve HAS to be there. Computer HAS to see it. I would clean it out so it will activate and not stick if that was it issue. The canister end of the valve HAS to be plugged WELL with no vacuum leaks.
In any respect, I plan on taking out the Canister and putting in a gas tank vent to the rear of the bike, replace the spark plug wires (Already got the BajaRon ones), I have to remove the bloody Throttle Body and clean it GRRRRRRR and properly redoing the crank case vent with Goldwing parts (installing a recovery canister and drain tube from a GL1500). Got a few other things on the menu too.
If these don't fix this bike then it will mysteriously go missing. I am at the end with this bike and there won't be another can-am in my stable ever.
Tim
I know what you mean. I had a lot of issues with my RT but most of them had to do with my dealer have an inexperianced, and unqualified, mechanic. After a lot of work, and $, I have corrected the problems this mechanic caused and my Spyder has been running very well for the last two years. I am an old Goldwing rider myself that switched to three wheels after a bad accident where my wife stated that she didn't feel comfortable on two wheels anymore. I was at a point where I was very seriously considering parking the Spyder out front, with the key in it and a steal me sign on it. I am now glad that I didn't. In fact I am looking to get a newer Spyder and donate this one to my wife.
On my 2012 RT Limited my riding day Sunday was ruined by the check engine light. When I got home I checked the code and it reads P0443 which is apparently the Evaporation canister purge valve. I have read several times in the past about a canister-ectomy, and it seems that now would be a good time to do this, which solves the problem my question is if there is a problem with the actual purge valve can it be removed. or disconnected, without triggering the fault code or is there a procedure to trick the computer into thinking the valve is still there and functioning properly?
Thanks!
Look at my Albums .... I have pics on how I changed the routing of the feed lines, so that the cannister stays in place But can't be contaminated by any new gas issues ..... if there is gas in it now , it will dry out by itself .... Mike
I was at a point where I was very seriously considering parking the Spyder out front, with the key in it and a steal me sign on it. I am now glad that I didn't. In fact I am looking to get a newer Spyder and donate this one to my wife.
Hahahaha....
The problem we have here is that if I left it out with the keys in it, someone walking by would take the keys and bring them to the front door and ring the doorbell or drop them in our mail box. It's happened with a buddy of mine that was here for a visit. hahahaha
No... have access to a private family gravel pit outside the city. Will take the spyder there and set it ablaze to end it and salute it with a drink and trailer it home, then to the nearest junk yard. Not an insurance motivation... only have PL and PD on it. Just would absolutely stop me from trying something else "just one more time". When I am "done" with something I tend to spitefully (but calmly) destroy what I am working on because I know I WILL pick up a wrench again and try again later down the road. I would never sell this money pit to anyone like it was sold to me. I know... I sound horrible but it works for me. I give too many chances and spend too much money trying to Fix things.
My original intent was to get a reliable, stable bike for my wife. She hates riding it. I certainly don't care for it. I have been pampered and spoiled by the reliability of the Goldwings. They are my favorite bikes to restore. These spyders are disposable. I am going into this feeling defeated. If and when Honda decides to build a 3 wheeler like this, I will probably be 2nd or 3rd in line. BRP will be crapping their pants.
Tim
Current - 2010 Spyder RTS
1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
___
Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.
The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?
Hi All: I am looking for some guidance here and hoping to tap some of the vast knowledge pool. My 2012 RT Limited just flashed up the Check Engine light, as all seemed operating ok I drove it home, watching carefully for anything that might indicate a problem. Aftre I got home I checked for codes and got P0443. This appears to be a problem with the Evap system. I checked the fuse, no problem there. What is the best way to proceed from here?
Hi All: I am looking for some guidance here and hoping to tap some of the vast knowledge pool. My 2012 RT Limited just flashed up the Check Engine light, as all seemed operating ok I drove it home, watching carefully for anything that might indicate a problem. Aftre I got home I checked for codes and got P0443. This appears to be a problem with the Evap system. I checked the fuse, no problem there. What is the best way to proceed from here?
You've asked this question 3 times in the last 2 days ..... I'm curious why ???? ..... Mike
You've asked this question 3 times in the last 2 days ..... I'm curious why ???? ..... Mike
I am still trying to find out if I need to replace the Purge valve or not. I did see your post, and pictures, on bypassing the canister and plan to do that but I am still getting the error code P0443. At this point, since I have checked the fuse and it's good I am wondering if the computer knows that the valve is bad or if there is some other problem?
More than likely your valve is stuck or the coil windings have opened up. Disconnect the wire going to it and remove it. Check with a multi meter using the resistance mode and see if you get close to 10 -20 ohms. If you do the coil is OK. I would then clean it out with a couple of shots of carb cleaner from both ends (non Chlorinated) and then get a few pieces of wire and a 12v battery and try to manually activate the valve. see if it clicks open. If it does not on the first attempt, reverse the wires (polarity) and try again.
If the valve opens up then you have a good valve. If not, replace it. It is unlikely another issue with the wiring (but check) and if you do check the resistance of the wire harness be carful... same if your checking its voltage. Wrong setting on your meter can damage a ECM.
Good luck.
Tim
Current - 2010 Spyder RTS
1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
___
Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.
The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?
... and yes... a computer ( ECM ) can tell if a solenoid (the valve) is working even on a 2 wire system by measuring the back lash (return spike) from the coil when the power is dis-engaged. It can tell when the coil is open, or gunked up depending on the waveform it sees returned.
Tim
Current - 2010 Spyder RTS
1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
___
Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.
The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?
Does anyone have an idea as to why my Spyder, in this condition, would have improved gas mileage. I rode my Spyder this weekend, with the purge valve not working properly, and it appeared to get better mpg than normal. A typical weekend ride for me is around 125 miles per day. Doing this I frequently have to stop for gas before I get home. If I don't stop, when I get home the fuel gauge normally shows one or two bars maximum. Since I determined that riding in this condition is not harmfull to the Spyder I rode it on Saturday. When I got home the fuel gauge is still showing four bars. I would have thought that, with the canister and purge system not working properly, that mpg would have decreased, not increased. Any ideas?
Hey Ken. The answer lies in the purpose and operation of the system.
The whole purpose for the charcoal canister is to capture emissions as they evaporate from the fuel tank when the vehicle is NOT running. Vehicles do spend most of their time not running. Parked in a parking lot or your garage, let's say. Fuel tanks are not vented through the gas cap anymore. All venting - both directions if needed - is through the canister. There should never be a positive or negative pressure in the tank. The only thing between the tank vent and atmosphere is the roll-over valve and the canister.
In order to extend the life of the charcoal, and allow it to be used over and over again, the canister is "purged" with fresh, outside air to sweep the hydrocarbons out of the charcoal and into the engine. The purge valve is connected to the canister on one end, and manifold vacuum on the other end. Engine vacuum is used to suck the fresh air backwards through the charcoal during engine operation. Air is sucked back into the canister through the vent hose hanging down from underneath your Spyder. On the 1330 systems, there is a little filter in that line. On our system, it just sucks in whatever happens to be down there - dirt and all. In the case of the 998, the purge valve is only connected to the rear cylinder. Now, while it can be argued that the hydrocarbons being sucked out of the charcoal are flammable, the affects of the lower vacuum out-weigh that. It's a vacuum leak. Thus you end up with reduced efficiency and performance. On an engine with larger displacement, there is not much affect. On the 998, when only using the one cylinder, it has a bigger impact.
The ECM controls when the valve is opened and closed. It is closed at low RPM and idle conditions. It is opened / cycled at normal highway RPM. Some folks can even feel the slight surging that occurs on very smooth roads as the valve opens and closes. Missing and stalling occurs if the valve sticks open at lower RPMs and at idle. Again, it's a vacuum leak.
So, in your case, if the purge valve has failed to open, and / or after you do the canisterectomy, the engine will perform better and more efficiently by eliminating the loss of vacuum cause by purge valve operation. Thus, the fuel mileage will improve. In addition, right now you may also be subconsciously operating the engine differently because you have that light lit on the display. Going easy on the wrist will also improve fuel economy.
Your code indicates an electrical problem with the valve. It probably doesn't open anymore. Whether or not you do a canisterectomy, you'll need to replace the valve to clear the code.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! This last post answered all of my questions. I now know that my purge valve is most likely stuck open as the engine has been running a little rough and has stalled several times when idleing. I just orderded a purge valve and will install it when it arrives. Thank you again
As a follow up I did purchase a new Purge Valve (solenoid). As part of a test I initially only connected the electrical connection to the valve and then ran the motor. The check eninge light went off and the error code cleared. I have come to the conclusion that the old valve was stuck open as my engine was running rough and stalling at low RPMs. I then completed the installation of the valve with the vacuum tubing. I am planning to check the performance of the Spyder this weekend and then will decide if I should do the canister-ectomy.
Glad you came back to your thread and did a follow up. Too many people don't do followups and others never know if they found their solution and what it was.
Also glad that you resolved the P code you were getting. I would still recommend the canister-ectomy though. Mine will be going through this shortly when I have mine apart for the Throttle Body cleaning and some other stuff.
Good Job!
Tim
Current - 2010 Spyder RTS
1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
___
Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.
The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?
The problem we have here is that if I left it out with the keys in it, someone walking by would take the keys and bring them to the front door and ring the doorbell or drop them in our mail box. It's happened with a buddy of mine that was here for a visit. hahahaha
No... have access to a private family gravel pit outside the city. Will take the spyder there and set it ablaze to end it and salute it with a drink and trailer it home, then to the nearest junk yard. Not an insurance motivation... only have PL and PD on it. Just would absolutely stop me from trying something else "just one more time". When I am "done" with something I tend to spitefully (but calmly) destroy what I am working on because I know I WILL pick up a wrench again and try again later down the road. I would never sell this money pit to anyone like it was sold to me. I know... I sound horrible but it works for me. I give too many chances and spend too much money trying to Fix things.
My original intent was to get a reliable, stable bike for my wife. She hates riding it. I certainly don't care for it. I have been pampered and spoiled by the reliability of the Goldwings. They are my favorite bikes to restore. These spyders are disposable. I am going into this feeling defeated. If and when Honda decides to build a 3 wheeler like this, I will probably be 2nd or 3rd in line. BRP will be crapping their pants.
Tim
I too love the Goldwings...I have info from Craig at Gene,s Gallery that the Sturgis R18 is going to be available in the spring of 2022 for the 2018 and newer Goldwings...Even with the DCT... larryd
Follw up to the follow up! I rode the Spyder around 400 miles this past weekend and everything seems to be back to normal. No error codes or no check engine light. In addition the bike is now idiling smoothly except for a very brief, occasional, hiccup whereby the idle drops and then goes back to normal. The motor only stalled a couple of times. I believe that this may be due to a vacuum leak so I intend to do the canister-ectomy as well as replace all of the vacuum lines in the near future. I feel confident that this will resolve that final, minor issue.
Follw up to the follow up! I rode the Spyder around 400 miles this past weekend and everything seems to be back to normal. No error codes or no check engine light. In addition the bike is now idiling smoothly except for a very brief, occasional, hiccup whereby the idle drops and then goes back to normal. The motor only stalled a couple of times. I believe that this may be due to a vacuum leak so I intend to do the canister-ectomy as well as replace all of the vacuum lines in the near future. I feel confident that this will resolve that final, minor issue.
Hey...
Super glad to hear this!
Tim
Current - 2010 Spyder RTS
1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
___
Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.
The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?
Evap Purge valve Code P0443
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Originally Posted by Ken Kovas
