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  1. #26
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    I've been following this thread closely ..... I'm flabbergasted at what appears to be a p*ss-poor design ..... I built Hitches for all my Spyders, a GS , an RSS, and my 14 RT..... I haven't had the problem that this Thread dis-cusses ..... I don't have any shims - plastic or otherwise, and have not had any paint issues ..... good luck to the BRP Hitch owners ...... Mike

  2. #27
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I've been following this thread closely ..... I'm flabbergasted at what appears to be a p*ss-poor design ..... I built Hitches for all my Spyders, a GS , an RSS, and my 14 RT..... I haven't had the problem that this Thread dis-cusses ..... I don't have any shims - plastic or otherwise, and have not had any paint issues ..... good luck to the BRP Hitch owners ...... Mike
    Actually, the design is very good. Many aftermarket hitches are structurally insufficient. The BRP design incorporates very well required strength, clean looks and easy installation and removal. Granted if parts of the original design are omitted, such as the plastic pads, there could be issues. However, installed correctly the hitch is very good.

    The downside of all Spyder hitches, they attach to the swingarm and not the frame.
    We have many miles on our Can Am hitch and RT622 trailer. No complaints from us.

  3. #28
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Actually, the design is very good. Many aftermarket hitches are structurally insufficient. The BRP design incorporates very well required strength, clean looks and easy installation and removal. Granted if parts of the original design are omitted, such as the plastic pads, there could be issues. However, installed correctly the hitch is very good.

    The downside of all Spyder hitches, they attach to the swingarm and not the frame.
    We have many miles on our Can Am hitch and RT622 trailer. No complaints from us.
    " very well designed strength " ... the BRP ( or any other ) Hitch to be able to " safely " tow a " rolling " load of 400lbs. Max with a Tongue weight of ... 40 lbs. MAX ....I agree the Hitch does take a beating because it is attached to the swing arm, but this effects the welds more than the actual material used to create it ...... Mike

  4. #29
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    " very well designed strength " ... the BRP ( or any other ) Hitch to be able to " safely " tow a " rolling " load of 400lbs. Max with a Tongue weight of ... 40 lbs. MAX ....I agree the Hitch does take a beating because it is attached to the swing arm, but this effects the welds more than the actual material used to create it ...... Mike
    Mike, not exactly sure where you came up with “very well designed strength”, certainly not something I wrote or implied.
    As I explained, when read as written, the design is good incorporating required strength, clean looks and easy install and removal.

    FWIW, the failures I have seen in photos from others were concerns where the ball tore thru the steel because the person was using a basket and not pulling a trailer. The bending moment induced into the hitch, by even a reasonably light basket setup, increases exponentially with each bump. Whereas the trailer simply does not induce those bending loads on account of the hitch ball being a flexible joint.

    I suspect, and your training as a LEO specialized in tires and vehicles likely knows more, but suspect the 400 pound max draw weight is based on the ability to stop, not so much pull. When loaded correctly, a Can Am RT622 easily remains well under the 40 pound max tongue weight. Even when we load ours a bit carelessly, it still remains well under 40 pounds.

    I know others tried to build frame mounted hitches for Spyders, but I do not recall anyone successfully making it happen. I checked your albums for photos of your hitch but did not see your design and fabrication method.

  5. #30
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Mike, not exactly sure where you came up with “very well designed strength”, certainly not something I wrote or implied.
    As I explained, when read as written, the design is good incorporating required strength, clean looks and easy install and removal.

    FWIW, the failures I have seen in photos from others were concerns where the ball tore thru the steel because the person was using a basket and not pulling a trailer. The bending moment induced into the hitch, by even a reasonably light basket setup, increases exponentially with each bump. Whereas the trailer simply does not induce those bending loads on account of the hitch ball being a flexible joint.

    I suspect, and your training as a LEO specialized in tires and vehicles likely knows more, but suspect the 400 pound max draw weight is based on the ability to stop, not so much pull. When loaded correctly, a Can Am RT622 easily remains well under the 40 pound max tongue weight. Even when we load ours a bit carelessly, it still remains well under 40 pounds.

    I know others tried to build frame mounted hitches for Spyders, but I do not recall anyone successfully making it happen. I checked your albums for photos of your hitch but did not see your design and fabrication method.
    I came up with " very well designed strength " ....FROM .... " very well required strength " If the BRP engineers used " required " strength .... I'm pretty sure it was because they DESIGNED it that way .... and I used the word " TOW " ....when you TOW something, any idiot knows that load will have to STOP. I didn't think I had to say it specifically. And I have stated in many other posts that using the Hitch for anything other than the Tongue on a trailer was asking for trouble ...... PERIOD i'm done with this topic ..... Mike

  6. #31
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I came up with " very well designed strength " ....FROM .... " very well required strength " If the BRP engineers used " required " strength .... I'm pretty sure it was because they DESIGNED it that way .... and I used the word " TOW " ....when you TOW something, any idiot knows that load will have to STOP. I didn't think I had to say it specifically. And I have stated in many other posts that using the Hitch for anything other than the Tongue on a trailer was asking for trouble ...... PERIOD i'm done with this topic ..... Mike
    Mike, earlier, you stated the hitch was a poor design. Then compared an oem hitch to your own. Granted yours is likely designed and built for much greater strength, but I do not know having never seen it.

    I mentioned the hitches ability to handle the 400 pounds draw weight that Can Am limits the hitch too, AND referenced the 400 pounds is likely not a structural concern. Sorry this seemed to be overly obvious to you, but realize, it is not obvious to others.

    Occasionally on Spyderlovers.com, the question is asked about pulling a heavier load than 400 pounds. Understanding you do not utilize Facebook, I share that there is a group specific to motorcycle trailers, pulled behind more than just Spyders. Often there, folks will post regarding how they pulled a trailer far heavier than the rated load. Even sometimes the Spyder folks that post there will post pulling non Can Am trailers, some even approaching 800 pounds with gear inside.

    That said, the hitch itself is handling these additional loads, so the design is likely not poor as you stated. However, it does raise the question of if that additional load above the rated amount is too much for the brakes.

    On the FB group, folks with two wheel motorcycles, typically larger machines are pulling these heavier loads.

    Sorry you got so worked up, but condemning what is possibly the best over the counter Spyder hitch assembly as a poor design, when so many of us use them, and you do not, is a bit harsh.

  7. #32
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Mike, earlier, you stated the hitch was a poor design. Then compared an oem hitch to your own. Granted yours is likely designed and built for much greater strength, but I do not know having never seen it.

    I mentioned the hitches ability to handle the 400 pounds draw weight that Can Am limits the hitch too, AND referenced the 400 pounds is likely not a structural concern. Sorry this seemed to be overly obvious to you, but realize, it is not obvious to others.

    Occasionally on Spyderlovers.com, the question is asked about pulling a heavier load than 400 pounds. Understanding you do not utilize Facebook, I share that there is a group specific to motorcycle trailers, pulled behind more than just Spyders. Often there, folks will post regarding how they pulled a trailer far heavier than the rated load. Even sometimes the Spyder folks that post there will post pulling non Can Am trailers, some even approaching 800 pounds with gear inside.

    That said, the hitch itself is handling these additional loads, so the design is likely not poor as you stated. However, it does raise the question of if that additional load above the rated amount is too much for the brakes.

    On the FB group, folks with two wheel motorcycles, typically larger machines are pulling these heavier loads.

    Sorry you got so worked up, but condemning what is possibly the best over the counter Spyder hitch assembly as a poor design, when so many of us use them, and you do not, is a bit harsh.
    If the BRP is the " BEST " design ........... then why are folks complaining about how they are " Slipping down " ..... And as far as over-weight loads, I have stated many times that " stopping " is the problem, not pulling ..... I have also said putting elec. brakes on the trailer if it is Over-weight is the smart thing to do ...... Verbal banter / jousting doesn't upset me like it does a few others on this forum. Chill ..... Mike

  8. #33
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    I'm no engineer and have little to no experience but the BRP design like any mechanical device can and will be stressed with multiple factors. Any piece of equipment utilized must be examined for wear and tear. My slippage is based on a widen hitch channel that fits over one of the swing arms and not so much.. but a lack of shims...I plan on correcting these issues...sure a frame on hitch would be cool but since I'm neither a fabricator nor engineer and have seen no examples of this design....my hopes to continue pulling a rt 622 in a safe and efficient manner will be pursued..I am interested however in any better design possibilities and have no thoughts on this possibility.
    2012 RTL 14 RTS , Pearl White @ Pearl White

  9. #34
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    If the BRP is the " BEST " design ........... then why are folks complaining about how they are " Slipping down " ..... And as far as over-weight loads, I have stated many times that " stopping " is the problem, not pulling ..... I have also said putting elec. brakes on the trailer if it is Over-weight is the smart thing to do ...... Verbal banter / jousting doesn't upset me like it does a few others on this forum. Chill ..... Mike
    Daves hitch had parts missing. It was not so much slipping down due to a poor design, rather, without the plastic pads, the clearance is excessive and allows slop at the hitch and swingarm. As far as best design, many theirs are fabricated from flat stock and angle. The flat stock is bent to form the hitch profile. They then weld an angle to the flat stock for the hitch ball. There is no gussets or stiffeners. Compared to the Can Am hitch, at least they used box tubing and have the area around the hitch ball reinforced. Compare for yourself if you wish. These are some of the aftermarket hitches offered. None are boxed or gusseted, and the lack of stiffening around the ball seems subject to bending forces during normal use that can lead to fatigue of the metal.
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  10. #35
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Daves hitch had parts missing. It was not so much slipping down due to a poor design, rather, without the plastic pads, the clearance is excessive and allows slop at the hitch and swingarm. As far as best design, many theirs are fabricated from flat stock and angle. The flat stock is bent to form the hitch profile. They then weld an angle to the flat stock for the hitch ball. There is no gussets or stiffeners. Compared to the Can Am hitch, at least they used box tubing and have the area around the hitch ball reinforced. Compare for yourself if you wish. These are some of the aftermarket hitches offered. None are boxed or gusseted, and the lack of stiffening around the ball seems subject to bending forces during normal use that can lead to fatigue of the metal.
    Also made mine from mostly " flat " stock ..... 3 inches wide and GUSSETED at each bend ( which were first scored, then bent, then the " score " was weld filled and ground smooth ..... I made them for friends and then as a Vendor and tested each one by pulling my Toyota Echo on a flat gravel driveway, I could have pulled My RT ( instead ) but that wouldn't have much of a test ..... AND if the BRP Hitch is DESIGNED to have " SHIMS " -- my guess is they arn't made to very close tolerances ....ie " sloppy fit " ..... just sayin .... Mike

  11. #36
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Daves hitch had parts missing. It was not so much slipping down due to a poor design, rather, without the plastic pads, the clearance is excessive and allows slop at the hitch and swingarm. As far as best design, many theirs are fabricated from flat stock and angle. The flat stock is bent to form the hitch profile. They then weld an angle to the flat stock for the hitch ball. There is no gussets or stiffeners. Compared to the Can Am hitch, at least they used box tubing and have the area around the hitch ball reinforced. Compare for yourself if you wish. These are some of the aftermarket hitches offered. None are boxed or gusseted, and the lack of stiffening around the ball seems subject to bending forces during normal use that can lead to fatigue of the metal.
    My after market hitch is like the one you picture. IMO, without having done the calculations, it is actually somewhat stronger than the light box metal BRP uses. As far as the plate the ball mounts too gussets aren't needed as it is plenty strong enough in bending as is. The ball mount and safety chain holes are on one single plate welded to the backside of the solid bar. I believe the design I have is structurally stronger than the BRP design.

    I looked at mine the other day. It's still all very tight and no movement like the OP is complaining about at all. The downside, and actually maybe it's advantage, is that the channels are held on by the axle bolt. When I got mine no after market hitches were using the long bolt through the axle that BRP uses.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

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