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RT622 hitch slipping down while towing - is this right?
My hitch seems to slip down while towing despite having normal tongue weight and torqued the hitch bolt to specs. This is obviously annoying and unsafe either the mudflap occasionally rubbing. Is this a common experience? It seems to be tight and fine when I test it before loading the trailer tongue on it. It travels down at “axle” bolt but all else is to spec.. tongue wt trailer load etc …. Am I missing some thing?
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I just posted that mine travels downward just got back from a trip after attaching it as tight as it possibly could not over extending the weight on the tongue and only carrying a load of 200lbs.. The tongue weight was within specs as well. The bolt that goes through did not seem to loose and was torqued to spec… But it does loosen and travel downward which is quite annoying is there another way or a star washer or some thing that I need to have on this or maybe a lock washer? Thanks
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You got a picture you can post?
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Originally Posted by trikermutha
You got a picture you can post?
Well no but it obviously loosens at the bolt and lowers the whole hitch… I don’t know how to make it tighter…
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by davev1pa
Well no but it obviously loosens at the bolt and lowers the whole hitch… I don’t know how to make it tighter…
There are plastic (nylon?) shims inside the sleeve that slides over the swingarm. They can wear out causing a gap. When you have time, pull off the hitch and inspect the shims. If they're worn out, you can replace them.
2020 Chalk, RT Limited, Dark and matching RT622 trailer and BRP hitch. BRP Drivers Backrest, Auxiliary Light, Garmin Zumo XT, GPS Support, RT Rear Panel and Travel Cover. Spyderpops LEDs on fenders, mirrors, saddlebags, top case and RT rear panel. Spyderpops Rock Guard. BajaRon Swaybar, Wolo Bad Boy horn, Freedom Windshield, Elka Shocks.
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That’s what I’m talking about!!
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Very Active Member
While it is true the nylon wear pads could be worn, it is not uncommon that the hitch simply had the steel channel needing to be “adjusted” to tighten the clearance at the wear pads.
Since the hitch is not suspended and feels every jolt the rear tire sees, that can be a lot of action to add clearance that is not desirable.
We have a Can Am hitch and RT622 trailer also. Yes, ours has a small amount of vertical play also.
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I can see side by side but up and down. Isn't there a ridge too it slides into to keep it from dropping.
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I need to get rid of the vertical play as it is too great -my mudflap rubs..
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Very Active Member
This is interesting ..... I made my own and doesn't move - Period ........... Mike
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first off is that an aftermarket hitch or can am some after market have a set screw to adjust slack
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BRP 705 203 210 trailer hitch . My understanding is that there are plastic shims in the channels that snug into the swingarm.....these are wear items? Anyway looking for a part #
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Any chance you have a part #?
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Very Active Member
Regarding the nylon pads. With truly no movement, wear is essentially nil. Finding a part number is likely difficult.
As I mentioned previously, sometimes you need to adjust the steel channels. Ours has a small amount of vertical play.
Years ago, a very highly respected member here had the same issue as you are having. Finless Bob simply reduced the clearance back narrowing the steel channel slightly. He removed the hitch assembly, then protected the hitches finish from damage. Next he ever so slightly narrowed the channel by squeezing the flanges in a vice.
If you have a lot of vertical play, possibly the nylon pads have fallen out.
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I'm not having any luck finding the nylon inserts today. But the hitch has 37.5 k on it with a fair # of miles pulling a trailer.....On another RT I have the same hitch with about 15k and it has only pulled a trailer maybe 1k and it's solid as a rock. I appreciate the channel squeezing thought...I will remove tomorrow and inspect it and will report back!
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So I removed the hitch for the first time since I owned this RTS on 9/20.......and of course ...only 3 of the 6 shims are left in the hitch....so I searched for part #s for the BRP hitch..nothing to be found....called the local dealer-they will call BRP to see if there's a shim kit ....in the interim I went to Home Depot to find an appropriate match of plastic....anyone else make their own shims and what did you use?
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You could buy a small sheet of UHMW from mcmaster car or ? and cut what you need .
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by davev1pa
So I removed the hitch for the first time since I owned this RTS on 9/20.......and of course ...only 3 of the 6 shims are left in the hitch....so I searched for part #s for the BRP hitch..nothing to be found....called the local dealer-they will call BRP to see if there's a shim kit ....in the interim I went to Home Depot to find an appropriate match of plastic....anyone else make their own shims and what did you use?
Just about plastic LID ( ie. margarine tubs. coffee cans etc. ) from any food container will work. way back I reduced some of my windshield movement by making small plastic shims from that type of plastic. .....Mike
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That was my first thought as well but it's a bit thicker...no BRP part # which is annoying I called BRP as well-no help. Was talking to Bajaron for other matters and he has express interest I sent pics ....we'll see what shakes out...in the meanwhile I'll keep trying hardware and common household plastics...THANKS!!
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Active Member
You can buy a piece of teflon tube, according the size you need, and use a laid, to trim a few shims, even a saw will do the trick, me thinks a good hardwarestore near you, could provide some shims.
Plastic or teflon shims are commonly used in the meat industry, as they are non bacteirial, and hygienic.
Else iron washers will do the trick, but then you wear out the paint on the hitch assembly quicker. Maybe a garage near you, has a solution.
It shouldn't be that hard to solve this problem
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In addition the channel now I’ve noticed is wider so I’ll be pounding or squeezing that RH SIDE That fits over the swing arm
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I have seen a few hitches, but never really examined one up close, so I will have to ask a couple of questions out of pure ignorance. From the description, it appears that there is exactly ONE mounting point for the hitch, and it's at the axle? Meaning that only the friction of a very tight fastener keeps it from rotating down when the weight of a trailer is applied?
If this is true, and there is no second point of support, I will just add this to my ever-growing list of why I will not pull a trailer with a Spyder.
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HER ride:
2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White
My rides:
2000 Honda GL1500SE
1980 Suzuki GS850G
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Very Active Member
I don't know what types of shims you need, but I purchased a shim kit from Lowe's that I use when attaching my rack to the hitch. I also made up a whole set that I carry along as a spare when traveling.
2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
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Very Active Member
2020 Chalk, RT Limited, Dark and matching RT622 trailer and BRP hitch. BRP Drivers Backrest, Auxiliary Light, Garmin Zumo XT, GPS Support, RT Rear Panel and Travel Cover. Spyderpops LEDs on fenders, mirrors, saddlebags, top case and RT rear panel. Spyderpops Rock Guard. BajaRon Swaybar, Wolo Bad Boy horn, Freedom Windshield, Elka Shocks.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Steve W.
I have seen a few hitches, but never really examined one up close, so I will have to ask a couple of questions out of pure ignorance. From the description, it appears that there is exactly ONE mounting point for the hitch, and it's at the axle? Meaning that only the friction of a very tight fastener keeps it from rotating down when the weight of a trailer is applied?
If this is true, and there is no second point of support, I will just add this to my ever-growing list of why I will not pull a trailer with a Spyder.
.
Your understanding of how the hitch is structurally supported is in error. The long bolt passing thru the hollow rear axle simply secures the hitch for shear loads. Shear loads as in pulling the trailer or in stopping.
Vertical loads are not placed into the bolt per say. The long bolt may act as a very slight hinging point, but vertical loads are passed into the swingarm itself. The load path is via a channel of steel on the left and right side of the hitch. These channels slide over and nest onto the swingarms box section. To prevent steel against steel, these plastic pads are secured to the inside of the hitches channel surfaces.
The design has been used for about 12 years now. It works. If there is a downside, it is the hitch itself moves with the suspension as it absorbs bumps. Realize also, the hitch is not designed to install a basket carrier, and there have been failures on account of the basket carrier and load over stressing the hitch as the suspension absorbs bumps.
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