Headlight advice needed

[Spika]

Good day all-
Purchased a 2016 RT this summer. One fog light was out, the headlights seemed to not be very good. Pulled all the necessary covers off to access them. Installed the two new LED fog lights and turned the bike on to make sure they worked. They do, but my main upper lights are not on. Tried both high & low beams to no avail. It’s like I disconnected the harness going to the headlights but I don’t recall doing so and can’t see anything unplugged other than the wires to the mirrors. What have I likely done???

[UtahPete]

Do you hear the shutter working between Hi and Lo beams?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Did you have the motor running? The headlights don't come on until the engine is running. Check the headlight relays to make sure they are seated properly and working.

[JayBros]

Have you read pg 158-161 on changing headlight bulbs and pg 140-144 on adjusting the headlights. Since you believe the headlights are "not so good," I suggest you consider switching from halogen bulbs to LEDs. After checking the headlight relays as IMS suggested go back and look at every plug you disconnected although it doesn't seem to me that you disconnected any headlight power cables to change fog lights.

[Spika]

Do you hear the shutter working between Hi and Lo beams?

No, I don’t hear that. Not sure if I could with the engine running though…???

[Spika]

Have you read pg 158-161 on changing headlight bulbs and pg 140-144 on adjusting the headlights. Since you believe the headlights are "not so good," I suggest you consider switching from halogen bulbs to LEDs. After checking the headlight relays as IMS suggested go back and look at every plug you disconnected although it doesn't seem to me that you disconnected any headlight power cables to change fog lights.

Yes, I’ve read that as well as followed a YouTube video. I believed the lights needed the aim adjustment…may help, and that was my next step, up until the point they didn’t come on.
I’ve never worked with the shutters. While that wouldn’t cause them to both go out completely, it is possible it was responsible for one side just not seeming very bright. (The headlights were LEDs; the lower lights are now.). Do you have recommendations on troubleshooting the shutters?

[Spika]

Yes, I’ve read that as well as followed a YouTube video. I believed the lights needed the aim adjustment…may help, and that was my next step, up until the point they didn’t come on.
I’ve never worked with the shutters. While that wouldn’t cause them to both go out completely, it is possible it was responsible for one side just not seeming very bright. (The headlights were LEDs; the lower lights are now.). Do you have recommendations on troubleshooting the shutters?

So…a bit more information. Pulled what I believe to be the headline relay in the left side fuse box. I’m not finding voltage on any of the pins in the socket with the relay removed. Checked hi and low beam fuses in the right box and they seem fine. I did test another fuse slot to verify I’m getting a good ground on my voltmeter and showed a good 14v. Now I am stumped…

[pegasus1300]

Of the headlights were already LEDs, did you unplug them at any time? If you put them back in backwards they won't work. It's a thought.?

[Spika]

Of the headlights were already LEDs, did you unplug them at any time? If you put them back in backwards they won't work. It's a thought.?

That’s a thought but unfortunately no. I had the right LED out, left was not touched. The running lights in the fenders are dead as well. It’s as if whatever allows power to come to the light circuit once the engine is started is not doing so once the engine is running. At least one pin of that five-pin socket labeled “R6 main headlamps” should be hot with the engine running, no? Something is not allowing power to get that far. I’m just not nearly familiar enough with this bike to know what or where that may be. Other thoughts from anyone?

A bit of an update…no voltage detected at the LED plug. Pulled relay 1&2 on right side labeled high and lo headlamps. Only shows voltage on one pin of the eight…the second from the left at the top. That reveal anything to anyone?

[Spika]

More…no tail or brake lights, but turn signals do work.

[UtahPete]

Since you bought used, there's a good chance a previous owner made some mods to the lighting circuit that is now causing a problem. Perhaps a bad connector somewhere. Can you provide a bit more info on the condition of the bike when you got it? Any obvious mods besides the lighted fenders?

Or, maybe the lack of headlights and lack of running / brake lights are two separate issues. Hard to say with the info we have at present.

[Peter Aawen]

That’s a thought but unfortunately no. I had the right LED out, left was not touched. The running lights in the fenders are dead as well. It’s as if whatever allows power to come to the light circuit once the engine is started is not doing so once the engine is running. At least one pin of that five-pin socket labeled “R6 main headlamps” should be hot with the engine running, no? Something is not allowing power to get that far. I’m just not nearly familiar enough with this bike to know what or where that may be. Other thoughts from anyone? .....

Have you checked that ALL the relays still function as they should, with a clunk that you should be able to feel if not hear as they are activated?? While I thought the brake lights should work regardless of anything else, I'm not positive on that - does the Load Shedding Relay disable ALL the main lights once the engine turns off/before the engine turns on & the alt starts charging?? Still, I didn't think it disabled the fender lights, indicators/flashers, or hazards, and surely the brake lights & hazards should work regardless of the ignition being on or off, so maybe that's just a red herring?? Anyhow, despite my ponderings, could it be that it's your Load Shedding Relay that's failing/failed??

As for the Fogs, any chance they've been powered via an a/mkt relay & are only triggered by the OE light circuit? That might explain that Fog light side of things, with just one LED failing over time & so needing replacement?!

And just as an after thought, your battery IS fully charged, isn't it?? Showing something over 12.6 volts until you turn the ign on? And hopefully still showing at least 12 volts once you do turn the ign on; then staying reasonably close to that or at least above about 10.6/11 volts as you try cranking the starter?? Not that I'd really expect it to be the battery from what you've told us, but these Spyders with all their electrickery & gizmowhatsits are power hungry bugga's....

[UtahPete]

...And just as an after thought, your battery IS fully charged, isn't it?? Showing something over 12.6 volts until you turn the ign on? And hopefully still showing at least 12 volts once you do turn the ign on; then staying reasonably close to that or at least above about 10.6/11 volts as you try cranking the starter??:

Peter, he had said in one of his posts that he was reading 14 volts.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

According to the wiring diagram for the 2014 RT, which I would think would be basically the same as for yours, R1, R2, and R6, are the headlamp relays. They also the have no connection to the fender lights. In fact, the fender lights should come on as soon as the key is turned on. The fog lights are fed through the load shedding relay, R4. Do you have hazard control lights and brake lights. If not then the main headlight fuse, J4, is the problem. The fog lights do not go through J4.

I suggest you go to www.canammanuals.com and buy the service manual for your RT. It's about $30 and will have a complete wiring diagram. That'll go a long way in helping you figure out what's wrong.

[UtahPete]

According to the wiring diagram for the 2014 RT, which I would think would be basically the same as for yours, R1, R2, and R6, are the headlamp relays. They also the have no connection to the fender lights. In fact, the fender lights should come on as soon as the key is turned on. The fog lights are fed through the load shedding relay, R4. Do you have hazard control lights and brake lights. If not then the main headlight fuse, J4, is the problem. The fog lights do not go through J4.

I suggest you go to www.canammanuals.com and buy the service manual for your RT. It's about $30 and will have a complete wiring diagram. That'll go a long way in helping you figure out what's wrong.

I think he said his running lights and brake lights aren't working either. I'm just wondering if a previous owner somehow wired the running lights into the main lighting circuit. Sure is strange. I have a pdf of the wiring diagram but I'm unable to post it because of limitations with the forum's attachment file sizes.

[Spika]

Great information guys. I received the wiring schematic from Pete and agree the F4 fuse needs rechecking.
Yes, the previous owner had installed mirror trim LEDS as well as a under nose light bar. Wiring could have gotten changed a bit from factory at that time. Hard to say. I’ll be digging down more on this in a few hours- thanks again!

[Spika]

Great information guys. I received the wiring schematic from Pete and agree the F4 fuse needs rechecking.
Yes, the previous owner had installed mirror trim LEDS as well as a under nose light bar. Wiring could have gotten changed a bit from factory at that time. Hard to say. I’ll be digging down more on this in a few hours- thanks again!

Success! That was it…F4 fuse was dead. Looked ok from the outside but no continuity when tested. Installed a new one and we’re golden.

Thanks for all the help…and to you Pete fir the schematic…that helped a bunch-