Can I use Motul 10w60 in my '21 RTL?

[rydahog]

Can I use this in my 21 can am rtl?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Can I use this in my 21 can am rtl?

Even if if that oil is OK for WET clutches .... I wouldn't .... BRP recommends 5w-40 ..... 10w-60 is quite a bit of a change from BRP's .... jmho .... Mike

[troop]

In a word .. Yes. BRP went from 10w40 > 5w40 when they quit producing 10w40. If you live in an area where the temps get super hot, the 60w aspect won't hurt. If you live in cooler climates, the 60w viscosity won't factor in.

[BajaRon]

I would not go above a 20/50 rated oil (the recommended viscosity for the Aprilia which the original Spyder, 998 V-Twin, was designed for). Rotax recommends this for the Aprilia because it is assumed that this engine, in a crotch rocket application, is going to be run as hard as possible on a regular basis. Not so with the Spyder. Which is why I think BRP's original 10/40 is still the best viscosity fit for most Spyder's. But for machines seeing triple digit temps on a regular basis. A 20/50 might make more sense.

While it is true that BRP tends to sell what they have over what might be best for the machine. They do still pitch in the ballpark. I would not stray too far from from their recommendation. When you understand how multiple grade oils work. A 10w low number makes more sense for the Spyder than does a 5w. But either (obviously) will work.

It doesn't matter all that much what the ambient temperature is. Your engine oil temperature is, indirectly, thermostatically controlled. Eventually, it is going to reach operating temperature, and fairly quickly. And you will be spending will over 90% of your miles at the high number. 60 weight is simply too thick for the Rotax engine. Oil is a Goldilocks product. You don't want a too low or too high viscosity. What you are looking for is 'Just Right' numbers for the situation.

[RICZ]

Today's engines are built to extremely close tolerances and so are the oil passages. Oil is not only a lubricant, it is an engine coolant as well. Because of this, it is best to use the viscosity the engineers specify. You never want to use an oil with a higher viscosity as it will not flow as the designers intended. Many here, including myself, use Rotella T6 with good results.

[Woodaddict]

10W-_60 is intended for air cooled engines

[BajaRon]

Today's engines are built to extremely close tolerances and so are the oil passages. Oil is not only a lubricant, it is an engine coolant as well. Because of this, it is best to use the viscosity the engineers specify. You never want to use an oil with a higher viscosity as it will not flow as the designers intended. Many here, including myself, use Rotella T6 with good results.

True, oil does a lot more than lubricate. It also cools and if properly done, will resist rust, corrosion, pitting, sludge, acid and film buildup. A thinner oil will cool better than a thicker oil, all things being equal. The proper oil of high quality will actually keep parts from ever touching together. If the oil is too thin, or of too low a quality for the application, it will not have enough film strength to prevent part to part contact. Too thick an oil will not flow well enough, or cool as it should. Especially at cold temperatures. Many manufacturer's are recommending thinner and thinner oil to increase fuel mileage. Sometimes at the expense of engine component parts over time.

If the manufacturer's only consideration were for engine longevity, that would be great. But the truth is, they have a number of considerations which may encroach upon that goal of engine life. Not the least of which is profit. To them, it is a balancing act. Whereas, to the owner, it is usually much more cut & dry.

A full synthetic 10/40 will flow much better cold than a blended oil of the same specs. A full synthetic will also cling to parts longer than a blended oil. Because the lions share of wear typically takes place at start-up and for the first few minutes of running. This is a very serious consideration. You should not go by just viscosity or weight. The type and quality of oil also enters into the equation. Personally, I don't see any reason to use a 'Blended' oil. I see this product as more a marketing strategy than I do a good value. For the small amount more (and many times the same or less cost comparted to the Manufacturer's offering). You can get much better service from a full synthetic. Bear in mind that no manufacture that I know of actually produces oil. They purchase an existing product (which is usually available at retail stores for less) and have it branded for them.

I am not saying that a manufacturer's oil is of poor quality. I'm just saying that you will typically pay a premium price for a less than premium product. With a bit of effort, you can do better.

[RudyB]

I use 20/50 Amsoil V-Twin with no problems 1330 cc you can go the full 9300 miles or more on your oil change interval over 58000 miles on my Spyder

[RICZ]

I use 20/50 Amsoil V-Twin with no problems 1330 cc you can go the full 9300 miles or more on your oil change interval over 58000 miles on my Spyder

Have you had your used Amsoil analyzed? After inadvertently running Rotella T6 for 7K+ mikes in a large, air cooled V-twin (106 Victory) I sent a sample to Blackstone. The report came back that all is good and there is at least 2500 mile miles left before breakdown even begins. That made me a Rotella T6 regular.

[Revalden]

I just changed the oil in my 2015 RT-S, I went with MOTUL 5w-40 full synthetic. Spydie likes it.

[Tango]

Too much spread(viscosity improvers) in the numbers means more additive to obtain the spread. I also believe it's too thick for the Spyder. Mines under warranty and the dealer is stuck on BRP oil. Tom

[KX5062]

Can I use this in my 21 can am rtl?

My semi education and semi literate answer is yes, but... Motul is an excellent product, but probably overkill. Too expensive and too thick at the higher number, so unless you've got a killer deal somehow I'd say there are other excellent lower cost options available within the recommended specs.