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Very Active Member
2016 RT Belt Tensioner
I have a vibration starting around 68 mph. I have looked online for Lamonsters' tensioner. Out of stock. I just wondering if anyone has any insight on when these might become available again? It appears from reading that the 1st thing to try is lower the tension to around 160 lbs. Not quite sure how easy it is to do.
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Very Active Member
My two cents worth....
I too have a belt vibe around 70ish mph, so I go faster or slower and it's gone. It's a very weak vibration because, like many here, I eased the tension to 160 rear wheel on the floor and 140 off the floor. Readings are from a Krikit II. You might want to do this and then see if you really need the tensioner (it's really a damper).
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
With less than 4K miles, I had to get rid of the Kendas as they were vibrating so much and would not hold a balance. Really crappy tires. I replaced them with Federal Formoza tires - they are far superior in every way to Kendas.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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I my opinion this outfit makes the BEST and MOST TROUBLE FREE belt tensioner AND they are also a site sponsor...No need to replace roller & bearings...No damaged belts from failures...larryd
https://www.smoothspyder.com/belt-tensioners/
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
These are Vibration Dampeners. Your belt tension comes from tensioners at the axle. These wheels add so little tension to the belt, it is not necessary to re-tension the belt after installation.
It would probably be best to set the belt tension that you desire before getting a vibration dampener. But whatever you do. Get a dampener with a 'Speed Rated Bearing'. Generally, it is better to go with a bigger wheel to reduce bearing RPM, which is the thing that destroys your dampener, and then your belt. At speed these bearings (on a 1" wheel) can approach 30,000 RPM. A 1.5", or even 1.25" wheel can make a big reduction in RPM.
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Thanks to all. My mistake calling it a tensioner vs dampener. I take it you have to loosen the rear axle bolts that are torques to 1 million ft lbs. Correct?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bangorbob
Thanks to all. My mistake calling it a tensioner vs dampener. I take it you have to loosen the rear axle bolts that are torques to 1 million ft lbs. Correct?
YES, make sure it's loose enough so the Adjusters won't be damaged .... RICZ use the correct amount of tension ..... I would use 1/4 turn at a time ..... good luck .... Mike
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Very Active Member
Thanks. I will check the tension today. I did buy a kickit and checked a couple times. I will just have to man up and have my wife break loose the nuts (axle). I appears that around 160 is where the belt should be for best overall results.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bangorbob
Thanks. I will check the tension today. I did buy a kickit and checked a couple times. I will just have to man up and have my wife break loose the nuts (axle). I appears that around 160 is where the belt should be for best overall results.
It would be best to adjust the belt with the rear wheel off the floor so you can rotate it to also make sure the belt is tracking properly. There should be a gap the thickness of a credit card between the belt and the rear pulley flange. There are YouTube vids showing the process. Doing it with the wheel off the floor, you want a Krikit reading of 140. Before tightening the axle, pound or kick the wheel forward, so you know it's seated hard against the adjusters. Only rotate the wheel in a forward traveling direction.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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