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  1. #1
    Active Member SteveandBelinda's Avatar
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    Default What's BajaRon's Price for Amsoil? Worth it?

    Trying to figure out if it is REALLY worth $16 a quart to use Amsoil over BRP Oil. Does anyone know what Baja Ron charges a quart? 2014 RTL
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    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote he sent me (back in1/2020)for The 10w-40 genuine, fully synthetic:
    “All pricing is delivered to your door. These are just examples that I think will best fit your preferences. But I can put together any assortment or combination you like. I don't quote the normal 5 quart amount for 1 oil change since you're getting this for 2 motorcycles and a 5 quart amount is about $2.00 a quart more. Amsoil is always less expensive per quart at the case level. They try to discourage smaller orders. I suppose it's a hassle unpacking and re-packing just 5 or 6 quarts.

    1 Case - $134.40 or $11.20 per quart.
    2 Cases - $255.95 or $10.66 per quart.”
    All the way with any & all of my orders
    Last edited by Bfromla; 07-16-2021 at 01:42 PM. Reason: Date

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    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Become a perferred customer and get a discount 10.99 per Qt I use Amsoil in everything, good oil, extended drain intervals, it worth it to me!!! Some here will say deferent, to each his own! Good Luck!! Here we go again, there playing our song!!
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    Very Active Member Wmoater's Avatar
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    I know there’s those that say otherwise but in my opinion BRP is 6500 miles per change and Ams is 8500-9000 miles. 2 of ams vs 3 of BRP as in changes so AMS is cheaper in the end. Buy by the case from bajaron. I run BRP in my 2stoker sleds but ams in my SXS,wheelers and 4 stoke sleds. His prices are the cheapest and I’ve looked everywhere.


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    Active Member Baron14y's Avatar
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    I've been using Quicksilver from Mercury. Just as good as Amsoil and a lot cheaper. Can get it at Walmart for about $26.00/gal. JASO certified for motorcycles. Been told both Amsoil and Quicksilver under private label supplied by same company.

  6. #6
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wmoater View Post
    I know there’s those that say otherwise but in my opinion BRP is 6500 miles per change and Ams is 8500-9000 miles. 2 of ams vs 3 of BRP as in changes so AMS is cheaper in the end. Buy by the case from bajaron. I run BRP in my 2stoker sleds but ams in my SXS,wheelers and 4 stoke sleds. His prices are the cheapest and I’ve looked everywhere.
    In our oil tests we find that typically, the BRP blended oil shears to 20 weight around 5,000 miles. Customers running Amsoil are going between 10 & 12k with good test results.

    Quote Originally Posted by Baron14y View Post
    I've been using Quicksilver from Mercury. Just as good as Amsoil and a lot cheaper. Can get it at Walmart for about $26.00/gal. JASO certified for motorcycles. Been told both Amsoil and Quicksilver under private label supplied by same company.
    Interesting. I had not heard of this oil before. I looked for some information on it and it's all pretty non-specific. Do you know if it is a true synthetic, or a mineral oil with an additive package, as is more common the case. It says JASO rated. but I'm not seeing anything that states the actual rating. Do you have any specific specifications for this oil? Have you run an analysis on it?
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    Very Active Member IGETAROUND's Avatar
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    Default Price of Amsoil

    If you want amsoil get it from Ron. You might also consider Valvoline 10-40 synthetic with a picture of a blue motorcycle on the label; Wal Mart carries this and if you keep an eye on it for sales it comes in under $6.00/Qt. FWIW

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    Very Active Member Copperman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveandBelinda View Post
    Trying to figure out if it is REALLY worth $16 a quart to use Amsoil over BRP Oil. Does anyone know what Baja Ron charges a quart? 2014 RTL
    I recently purchased a case from BajaRon. Cost me $151.43 delivered to my door.
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    I've never been able to understand buying an expensive piece of equipment and then maintaining it on the cheap?

  10. #10
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
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    I run only AMSOIL in my Spyder and I get it from Ron. It is not the cheapest oil but the best in my book!
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  11. #11
    Active Member Baron14y's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    In our oil tests we find that typically, the BRP blended oil shears to 20 weight around 5,000 miles. Customers running Amsoil are going between 10 & 12k with good test results.



    Interesting. I had not heard of this oil before. I looked for some information on it and it's all pretty non-specific. Do you know if it is a true synthetic, or a mineral oil with an additive package, as is more common the case. It says JASO rated. but I'm not seeing anything that states the actual rating. Do you have any specific specifications for this oil? Have you run an analysis on it?
    Claims to be full synthetic. Specs say "Meets or exceeds API SF/SG/SJ/SL/SM. JASO MA/MA2" Reviews are all very good.

    Recommended for use in all four-stroke motorcycles and scooters including sport, dual sport, off-road bikes and other high-revving engines.

    The wet clutch compatible formula prevents clutch slippage and provides High temperature durability, High RPM protection and Optimum horsepower

    Meets or exceeds manufacturer’s warranty requirements. Using this product will not void manufacturer warranties.

    JASO Certified

  12. #12
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baron14y View Post
    Claims to be full synthetic. Specs say "Meets or exceeds API SF/SG/SJ/SL/SM. JASO MA/MA2" Reviews are all very good.
    There are various methods used to obtain the 'Synthetic' label. Back in the beginning, only oils that were selected from certain molecules during the refining process were allowed to use that definition. Then Castrol took standard mineral oil, blended in a man made additive package and called it 'Synthetic'. The process was less expensive and Mobil1 sued because of the patents they had on the refining process to achieve, what up until then, had been the only method able to claim 'Synthetic'. Everyone was completely shocked when Castrol won the case. Some said that Mobil1 assumed it to be such a slam dunk win that they didn't bother to do their homework. Others said that the court, not grasping the science of the differences, just didn't think it a big deal. I can say that the only nation in the world that allows a mineral oil with an additive package to be called 'Synthetic' is the United States.

    The fact that they just say 'Synthetic' and give no more details would indicate a mineral oil with an additive package. But maybe not. That's why I was looking.

    I'm glad everyone is having good luck with it. Do you know if anyone has had it analyzed? That would be very interesting. If it's as good or better than Amsoil, for less money, I'll be getting that in the future. My only loyalty to Amsoil is based in the tests I and many others have done over the years.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 07-17-2021 at 01:23 PM.
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  13. #13
    Active Member Baron14y's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    There are various methods used to obtain the 'Synthetic' label. Back in the beginning, only oils that were selected from certain molecules during the refining process were allowed to use that definition. Then Castrol took standard mineral oil, blended in a man made additive package and called it 'Synthetic'. The process was less expensive and Mobil1 sued because of the patents they had on the refining process to achieve, what up until then, had been the only method able to claim 'Synthetic'. Everyone was completely shocked when Castrol won the case. Some said that Mobil1 assumed it to be such a slam dunk win that they didn't bother to do their homework. Others said that the court, not grasping the science of the differences, just didn't think it a big deal. I can say that the only nation in the world that allows a mineral oil with an additive package to be called 'Synthetic' is the United States.

    The fact that they just say 'Synthetic' and give no more details would indicate a mineral oil with an additive package. But maybe not. That's why I was looking.

    I'm glad everyone is having good luck with it. Do you know if anyone has had it analyzed? That would be very interesting. If it's as good or better than Amsoil, for less money, I'll be getting that in the future. My only loyalty to Amsoil is based in the tests I and many others have done over the years.
    Everything I've read says it is full synthetic, not a blend. Made by Mercury.

  14. #14
    Very Active Member Ex-Rocket's Avatar
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    Specs of the Quicksilver 20W50 full Synthetic oil: API SF/SG/SI/SL/SM/ and MA/MA2. Advertised price at Walmart $25.82 Gallon



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  15. #15
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baron14y View Post
    Everything I've read says it is full synthetic, not a blend. Made by Mercury.
    This oil here ? Awhile back, I bought the last three bottles on the shelf at the local Walmart for $2.50/QT on clearance.
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  16. #16
    Active Member trong's Avatar
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    Another 710 thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by trong View Post
    Another 710 thread.
    Yes sir, you could be on to something there.

  18. #18
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    And what exactly is a “710” thread, please?
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by motoswami View Post
    And what exactly is a “710” thread, please?
    A "710" thread is just an "OIL" thread that's gone t**s up!



    But I don't think this one has.... not yet anyway?! . Off topic - weeeelll yeah, maybe just a little.... . It's definitely wandering a bit; altho so far, I'd say that even that wandering has at least been reasonably within an acceptable range/scope of the original discussion! Thanks everyone.

    So as I mentioned above, I don't think this thread's gone t**s up - not yet anyway!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-31-2021 at 09:53 PM.
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    Very Active Member EdMat's Avatar
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    Everybody seems to get so upset about everyone's choice of oil or the price of oil. It seems to me that any decent oil, changed on schedule will allow the engine to last well in excess of 100,000 miles. How many folks in actuality will put that many miles on a spyder?
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  22. #22
    Active Member shakin_jake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdMat View Post
    Everybody seems to get so upset about everyone's choice of oil or the price of oil. It seems to me that any decent oil, changed on schedule will allow the engine to last well in excess of 100,000 miles. How many folks in actuality will put that many miles on a spyder?


    ~~~Ive always kind of argued the same point in that, how many miles is one going to put on any given motorbike, scooter, trike, et al. That said, both of our light duty trucks 1998 F-150, 2010 F-250 have just over 100K miles on each. Actually, the F-150 has 125 K miles and the f-250 I just did an oil change has 100665 miles on the odometer, but here’s the thing, the diesel motor in the the F-250 has been described/determined to be the worst diesel motor ever made. They had a problem with the high pressure fuel pump. The high pressure fuel pumps will grenade usually with not more than a 100 K miles. Mine took a dump a few months ago. To make matters worse, the motor has to come out of the truck to replace the high pressure fuel pump and on my 2010 that means the cab has to be separated from the chassis. Ford says to replace alll 8 fuel injectors at the same time. My mechanic also replaced everything related to the fuel system including but not limited to the low pressure fuel pump, the fuel tank was removed, cleaned(to remove any errant metal bits which is what destroys the high pressure fuel pump) and the sending unit was replaced. I got off easy. All he charged me was $7K which included replacing the main brain electrical part which was $500 (CPU?) because the original diagnostic flow chart indicated it was at fault due to the codes that were thrown

    Not that anyone asked but my mechanic came up through the Ford dealership ranks, was able to get Ford to comp all of the 8 new fuel injectors, the high pressure fuel pump, etc. So why did I have to pay $7K? Well, this was the first one he did, had an lot of hours into it and if yhou0 talk to anyone else that had this same job done they paid up to twice more if they had the work done3 vs. tradi ng the truck in for a new one

    So what does all of this talk of an Ford diesel motor truck have to do with Spyders? It’s in the same vein, the problem I knew that brought on my high pressure fuel pump goin g when it did was because (IMNSHO) I let the scheduled oil change go further thanI should have. I change (usually) the oil every200 hours (about 5 K miles) That’s the severe duty schedule. Normal schedule is twice that or 400 hours or every 10 K miles. I go with the severe duty schedule because I meet those guidelines, specifically the engine idles for more than10 minutes every hour the motor runs. Its hot here so I let the air conditioning run to get the cabin cool before taking off

    Again, the point I’m making is y0ur oil in whatever vehicle it is needs to be changed on schedule. Go over that schedule and be damned

    I was one of the odd men out waiting for a year to go by before I did the first oil change non my 2020 Ryker Rally. There was also only less than4 K miles on the Ryker Rally odometer whenI did that first oil change. It seems most Ryker pilots change oil on the first change well before the BRP guidelines of every 6500 miles or once a year, whatever comes first. It’s also safe to say these same peeps will change their engine oil before every 6500 miles, and hey!, more power to them. It’s your motor, do what you0 feel is best, but just like the author I Quote here says, some seem to get their tidy whites in a knot if you dont do like. They do


    Best,


    Jake
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  23. #23
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shakin_jake View Post
    ~~~Ive always kind of argued the same point in that, how many miles is one going to put on any given motorbike, scooter, trike, et al. That said, both of our light duty trucks 1998 F-150, 2010 F-250 have just over 100K miles on each. Actually, the F-150 has 125 K miles and the f-250 I just did an oil change has 100665 miles on the odometer, but here’s the thing, the diesel motor in the the F-250 has been described/determined to be the worst diesel motor ever made. They had a problem with the high pressure fuel pump. The high pressure fuel pumps will grenade usually with not more than a 100 K miles. Mine took a dump a few months ago. To make matters worse, the motor has to come out of the truck to replace the high pressure fuel pump and on my 2010 that means the cab has to be separated from the chassis. Ford says to replace alll 8 fuel injectors at the same time. My mechanic also replaced everything related to the fuel system including but not limited to the low pressure fuel pump, the fuel tank was removed, cleaned(to remove any errant metal bits which is what destroys the high pressure fuel pump) and the sending unit was replaced. I got off easy. All he charged me was $7K which included replacing the main brain electrical part which was $500 (CPU?) because the original diagnostic flow chart indicated it was at fault due to the codes that were thrown

    Not that anyone asked but my mechanic came up through the Ford dealership ranks, was able to get Ford to comp all of the 8 new fuel injectors, the high pressure fuel pump, etc. So why did I have to pay $7K? Well, this was the first one he did, had an lot of hours into it and if yhou0 talk to anyone else that had this same job done they paid up to twice more if they had the work done3 vs. tradi ng the truck in for a new one

    So what does all of this talk of an Ford diesel motor truck have to do with Spyders? It’s in the same vein, the problem I knew that brought on my high pressure fuel pump goin g when it did was because (IMNSHO) I let the scheduled oil change go further thanI should have. I change (usually) the oil every200 hours (about 5 K miles) That’s the severe duty schedule. Normal schedule is twice that or 400 hours or every 10 K miles. I go with the severe duty schedule because I meet those guidelines, specifically the engine idles for more than10 minutes every hour the motor runs. Its hot here so I let the air conditioning run to get the cabin cool before taking off

    Again, the point I’m making is y0ur oil in whatever vehicle it is needs to be changed on schedule. Go over that schedule and be damned

    I was one of the odd men out waiting for a year to go by before I did the first oil change non my 2020 Ryker Rally. There was also only less than4 K miles on the Ryker Rally odometer whenI did that first oil change. It seems most Ryker pilots change oil on the first change well before the BRP guidelines of every 6500 miles or once a year, whatever comes first. It’s also safe to say these same peeps will change their engine oil before every 6500 miles, and hey!, more power to them. It’s your motor, do what you0 feel is best, but just like the author I Quote here says, some seem to get their tidy whites in a knot if you dont do like. They do


    Best,


    Jake
    Reddick Fla.
    BRILLIANT’S LAW OF LIMITED AMBITION: If you can’t learn how to do it well, learn how to enjoy doing it poorly
    Love it!!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  24. #24
    Very Active Member Tango's Avatar
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    I'm under warranty. Dealer only uses BRP oil for the service once a year. Last year only put on 3,000 miles due to covid. When I look at the BRP oil, it is not JASO rated! It bugs me that it's not. But I change the oil so often, I let it go. I'm old and round so the dealer does all my services. Tom
    Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?



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