Well I had a beer and thought to heck with it, I'm on vacation and I have it tore apart this far so another 90 minutes I had the air box ox n plug out. For only 3000 miles on it the front plug dont look good n the gap is .022 so not sure of the factory gap. I'd NEVER want to do it again, even changing air filter is a nightmare.
Factory Gap is .031-.032. I go a bit wider on mine. .022 is definitely too narrow. When you change them be sure to go to an NGK DCPR8EIX (6546). That alone will make a big difference in throttle response, quick start-up, better mileage, power and smoother running. Use Thermal Past (NOT Anti-Seize) on the spark plug threads and Dielectric Grease on the Spark Plug boots, (not the Coil Boots). I highly recommend you change out your spark plug wires with a High Quality set (not OEM). If you don't, you will be very disappointed. Especially when you have to do this again to replace them. If you do these things, I think you will be impressed!
By the way, now that you have that air box off - you see where this two coolant hoses come out of the front and rear cylinders. Right up next to the engine they use the screw type hose clamps. Go ahead and re- snug those two clamps down. Will prevent seepage down the road.
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Factory Gap is .031-.032. I go a bit wider on mine. .022 is definitely too narrow. When you change them be sure to go to an NGK DCPR8EIX (6546). That alone will make a big difference in throttle response, quick start-up, better mileage, power and smoother running. Use Thermal Past (NOT Anti-Seize) on the spark plug threads and Dielectric Grease on the Spark Plug boots, (not the Coil Boots). I highly recommend you change out your spark plug wires with a High Quality set (not OEM). If you don't, you will be very disappointed. Especially when you have to do this again to replace them. If you do these things, I think you will be impressed!
Mine from the factory was gapped at about 24. But going to put the new ones at 31.
Hi! I saw same issue on a friends 998cc. In the end - you won't believe this - found a cracked spark plug!! Never seen this before. OF COURSE it was the right side, had to tear down half the bike to get to it. Took it out and saw an obvious crack. Firstly I took my spark plug tester at the coil and saw the plug was intermittent. New coil, same thing. When I pulled the left plug I saw it had been replaced. Apparently the right side was over tightened. Symptom was bike lurched and chattered taking off, but seemed OK at highway speeds.
Got my new Renegade battery today, AGM type n 604 CCA 130 shipped to my door. This is the 7th battery I have bought from Renegade for my different toys n they never disappoint me.
I know this an old thread but wanted to thank everyone who gave advice in it. Mine started acting the way the op described a couple of weeks ago. I just bought the bike from a dealer this past April. It’s a 2012 RS & only had 1105 miles on it. I did a vin search on it before buying. It was bought new in august 2015 as a leftover & never registered again until I bought it. Owner had passed away & his family left it sit in the garage till they sold it to the dealer I got it from. Only warranty they would give me was that tere were no oil leaks, which there’s not. Bike ran great til I hit 5,000 miles 2 weeks ago then acted as op described. Performed the canisterectomy. Helped but still wasn’t right. Got new iridium plugs & Moroso plug wires for it. Changed the vacuum hoses even though they looked like they were recently done, replaced the fuel filter only to find it had also been recently done by the date on it & finally worked up the nerve to tear the airbox off to do the plugs. This is where the “fun” began. It had a brand new Puroltor air filter in it but after pulling the box off, I discovered a huge mouse nest in the box. Decided to change the plugs & wires anyway since I was that far & had already gotten new ones. Glad I did. The plug wires were original & I removed the spark plugs with my fingers after noticing them moving when pulling the wires off. Put in new plugs with thermal paste & installed the new wires with dielectric grease. Put everything back together & test rode. I only thought this thing ran great before. It’s unreal how good it runs now. Again, thanks to all of you for your insight that gave me the courage to do this myself
Agree with Peter on this, any cracks in the vac lines will cause this issue, also after some time the vac lines tend to lose their grip on the post which can also cause issues like this. Best to replace with the silicone lines.
what size are these lines ... so I can hunt some first before I start undressing my spyder ??
what size are these lines ... so I can hunt some first before I start undressing my spyder ??
Just entered a Search on 'vacuum' & 'Search Titles Only' to get a bunch of results - a thorough cursory glance at some of them suggest this might help - it's a vid for an ST, but the engine bits are basically the same.
And while this one's not specifically addressing your question above, it juuust might be worth checking out on your machine too, even if only for awareness/later reference:
Originally Posted by chromehorse
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