There's nothing wrong with the original strut. When you start adding things like the butt buffer, gel inserts and such is when the problem starts. Just replacing it with the stock strut would accomplish nothing.
Adding to what K80shooter noted, the stock strut is only about 15-20 pounds force which barely holds up the OEM seat so adding a gel seat insert (what I did) adds weight which renders the stock strut incapable of holding the seat up when filling gas tank and checking oil.
I ordered McMaster Carr PN 9416K11 (30# force) which is a little bit longer than the stock one but not quite as beefy in body and rod diameter.
Installed it today using the OEM "ends" and it seems to work fine - holds up the seat with no problem but it is not so forceful that the seat pops up on it's own so I think I have about the right force (30#).
BTW, to unscrew the factory OEM "ends", it helps to place the strut in a vise using plastic vise pads like these so you don't damage the strut (in case you need it later). The eyelet end on mine took some force to unscrew but the ball socket end came right off.
You also don't need to remove anything but the passenger seat to gain access. A long narrow screwdriver wedged "just so" will release the clip at the ball socket end and it comes right out.
Thanks to K80shooter for finding the source for this strut rod. Might even be able to use one even longer but you are limited to how long it can be based on the travel of the strut and the fixed location of the ball end.
New strut is the smaller one in the pics above. I figured the weak link in the OEM setup is the plastic nib on the seat hinge so going with a slightly smaller shock rod was not going to make any difference - if anything breaks/fails, it will be that plastic nib not a smaller steel shock rod. And, it isn't exactly a critical component.
I ordered McMaster Carr PN 9416K11 (30# force) which is a little bit longer than the stock one but not quite as beefy in body and rod diameter.
Installed it today using the OEM "ends" and it seems to work fine - holds up the seat with no problem but it is not so forceful that the seat pops up on it's own so I think I have about the right force (30#).
BTW, to unscrew the factory OEM "ends", it helps to place the strut in a vise using plastic vise pads like these so you don't damage the strut (in case you need it later). The eyelet end on mine took some force to unscrew but the ball socket end came right off.
You also don't need to remove anything but the passenger seat to gain access. A long narrow screwdriver wedged "just so" will release the clip at the ball socket end and it comes right out.
Thanks to K80shooter for finding the source for this strut rod. Might even be able to use one even longer but you are limited to how long it can be based on the travel of the strut and the fixed location of the ball end.
New strut is the smaller one in the pics above. I figured the weak link in the OEM setup is the plastic nib on the seat hinge so going with a slightly smaller shock rod was not going to make any difference - if anything breaks/fails, it will be that plastic nib not a smaller steel shock rod. And, it isn't exactly a critical component.
You should have gotten the 9416K14 in 30lb, it's exactly like the oem one. I also got the 9416K11 just in case the other one didn't work but I think either one will work much better than the 18# factory one.
I just did this recently. They fixed the seat one and the trunk one. Both work great now, and didn't cost me a dime. Now I have to get her back in there for this new recall, and have them install the Belt Tensioner I just bought from Lamonster.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-23-2023 at 05:35 PM.
Reason: Moved Post title into text - many only see Thread titles, and post titles mess with Searching! ;-)
2020 Can Am Spyder RT Limited "The Comet #2"
Baja Ron Sway Bar
Passenger Armrests From Can Am
Wolo Big Bad Max Airhorn
Lamonster Top Cuff W/Ram Ball
Lamonster Power Plate
Tackform Phone Mount
Key Cover from Ebay
Lamonster Mirror Locks
Ultragard Cover from Lamonster
Top Grills from Spyderpops
Garage Door Opener from Spyderpops
3.5mm Extension from Amazon
Lamonster USB Cable Holder & Cable
Foam Grips from Spyderpops
Tricled Strobe Brake Light module
Tricled Bag Lights (replace reflectors)
Tricled Turn/Brake/Run Signals Rear
Tricled Floorboard Lights
Tricled Sequential Run/Turn Fender Lights
Tricled A-Frame Run/Turn Lights
Tricled LED American Flag Mount & Flag
Showchrome American Flag
2020 RT Limited , Says Chalk White, but in person it is much more gray
I just received my strut from McMaster-Carr. I ordered 9416K14, which is exactly the same dimensions and stroke as the original. I also ordered the 6465K26 eyelet which does indeed open the seat farther.
My unscientific digital bathroom scale test indicated 43.7 lbs. to close it. I'm sure that will become some what less with use.
It appears that either WJH's part or mine will work.
I know I'm happy!
The new strut shows a Suspa part # C16-14870.
Thanks guys! I want some extra lift in my seat and didn't want to move my AirHawk every time I filled up. Just order myself a new strut and eyelet.
Look at my Album - gas strut re-placement - this is how I REMOVED the OEM strut so I could OPEN the seat about 14 inches higher ..... it makes " Brake fluid " checking MUCH easier .... Also check my post #4 ..... Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 05-10-2022 at 12:07 PM.
Look at my Album - gas strut re-placement - this is how I REMOVED the OEM strut so I could OPEN the seat about 14 inches higher ..... it makes " Brake fluid " checking MUCH easier .... Mikle
Pete's seat is very different from the one-piece seat in the older RT's but the added height that he will gain will help in fueling the tank.
Okay, I got and installed the parts. They work well, nothing super dramatic, it just works. The seat will now lift on its own and stay up when fueling, which it never did. Adding the plastic tip vs the OEM pot metal bracket tip is a nice extra touch. It does lift the seat slightly higher and thus makes fueling easier. Thanks again, Shooter, for taking the lead in this fix.
Has anyone replaced the gas strut on their '20 or '21 RTL? Mine barely holds the seat open with nothing on it. I have a Butt Buffer and have to take it off everytime I fuel.
The original strut was shot when I got home with the Spyder brand new. How the dealership missed this is beyond me, as the tank was full. I didn't write down the info on the replacement strut or take measurements, but if no one has info on a stronger strut I'll start removing Tupperware.
As usual, I have a different approach to the problem. I just disconnected the top of the strut and left everything else in place. Put the screw back in the plastic hinge so it doesn't wind up in a tire. The seat now folds back until it hits the trunk, but that's no problem. Eventually something else will motivate me to take the plastic off the left side and I will completely remove the strut.
Chip
2020 RTL
"Stella by Starlight"
EDIT: When I did this, I had the passenger seat off for other repairs. With the pax seat back on, the driver's seat only opens about 12 inches. I cut a segment of old broom handle to hold it open during refueling. I stored the handle in the organizer at the back of the frunk between uses.
Last edited by chipveres; 05-12-2023 at 12:04 PM.
Reason: My Error
As usual, I have a different approach to the problem. I just disconnected the top of the strut and left everything else in place. Put the screw back in the plastic hinge so it doesn't wind up in a tire. The seat now folds back until it hits the trunk, but that's no problem. Eventually something else will motivate me to take the plastic off the left side and I will completely remove the strut.
Chip
2020 RTL
"Stella by Starlight"
I put the external spring on mine and it works fine but I think I may try what Chip did, why not get it completely out of the way.
Bike has 1,700 miles on ii. I noticed that the rider's seat will not stay up when filling gas tank. Could temperatures affect this?
I can not even see how to remove the riders seat nor the passengers one. They are the heated ones. Any clear pix or videos on how to do this?
From what I can see the ram is on the left side and goes down into the chassis but do not know where?
Also I have read that you may be better off getting a replacement ram for the riders seat from a auto parts store? Anyone have a part number for a replacement ram?
My bike is still under the extended warranty to there is a $50 deductible, if I had the ram replaced with a Can am oem one would the replacement be any better?
I can see the ram (see pix)
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-23-2023 at 05:31 PM.
Reason: Moved Post title into text - many only see Thread titles, and post titles mess with Searching! ;-)
A couple of disparate suggestions: We use 9 inches cut off an old broomstick and stored in the left saddlebag. Just prop the seat open when fueling. Replacement gas springs are available from McMaster-Carr. I took a quick look at their prices and it seems like you could save money by dealing with them. Also you could opt for "next strongest" rather than a direct replacement. Where the strut goes becomes obvious when you take the left side panels off the cycle.
To remove the pax seat, start by removing the pivot bolts at the rear of the driver's seat. Now that you have a clear field of action, you can barely see two plastic clips that hold down the front of the pax seat. Push them gently to the rear while lifting up on the front edge of the seat. It's hard to see and nearly impossible to photograph because everything is black on black. Having once seen it, you will discover that it is possible to remove the pax seat by merely opening the driver's seat without totally removing it.
Last edited by chipveres; 06-17-2023 at 12:32 PM.
Chip
2020 RTL
"Stella by Starlight"
UltraGard Full Cover, Front & Rear Cup Holders, Elka Stage 2 Rear Shock, TC & Dave Signal Button, Spyder Extras Sway Bar
Mine did the same thing (I have since bought a Corbin seat). BUT before that I bought this size spring (see photo). You unhook one end of the seat piston, push the spring down over the piston and reconnect the piston... and the seat will stay up while fueling! I cannot take credit for this idea, I got it here on the Spyder Lovers message board!
Mine did the same thing (I have since bought a Corbin seat). BUT before that I bought this size spring (see photo). You unhook one end of the seat piston, push the spring down over the piston and reconnect the piston... and the seat will stay up while fueling! I cannot take credit for this idea, I got it here on the Spyder Lovers message board!
That's a capital idea and easy to install as well.
Chip
2020 RTL
"Stella by Starlight"
UltraGard Full Cover, Front & Rear Cup Holders, Elka Stage 2 Rear Shock, TC & Dave Signal Button, Spyder Extras Sway Bar
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Originally Posted by Jetfixer
- holds up the seat with no problem but it is not so forceful that the seat pops up on it's own so I think I have about the right force (30#).
