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  1. #1
    Active Member DickB's Avatar
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    Default CVT noise "shifting" in and out of neutral - drive belt?

    I have a clacking noise when starting from a stop or coming to a stop. It sounds like the toothed drive belt is chattering against the CVT cover. In the photo you can see some of the sound insulation has been worn away from contact with the belt, and the belt is in contact with the plastic cover. I cut that portion of the insulation away, but the noise persists. Is there some adjustment needed to tighten up the belt a bit to prevent this?

    belt.jpg

  2. #2
    Active Member DickB's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    I just watched the video. Wow, belt is too loose. I know on a snowmobile you can adjust your secondary. On a Ryker I do not know.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-24-2021 at 06:19 PM. Reason: ialwatched?!
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member Markubis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DickB View Post
    ouch, that's not good.
    Seems to me that maybe one of the coned pulleys are binding and not closing up on the belt to keep it tight.

  5. #5
    Active Member Greven's Avatar
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    I'd put my money on a shot/disintegrated roller in the CVT clutch.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-25-2021 at 05:01 PM. Reason: desitegrated ;-)

  6. #6
    Active Member DickB's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments.

    The belt, pulleys, and moving parts looked fine. They should - the bike is a 2019 with 2500 miles on it. It is a factory belt with the correct part number. There was no dust or debris inside the cover.

    To clarify, the bike runs fine once underway at anything more than a crawl. Notice how at rest the cones are separated to their maximum, not stuck, and the belt is so loose that it touches the CVT cover. You can see where some of the sound insulation has been worn away by contact with the outer belt teeth. If the clutch were not working properly, I would think that I would have the opposite problem: slipping and/or noise when under way. I don't have any problem at any speed at all. The clutch appears to engage and disengage just fine. The issue is that when the clutch engages from idle, or disengages when I release the throttle and come to a stop, the belt momentarily rubs against the case. Usually there are just two clucking sounds as belt teeth contact the cover while the belt is moving. With no cover on I think it would not be noticeable at all - no noise, and no drivability problems. As it is, I have no drivability problems. In the video, I intentionally held the throttle at just above idle to accentuate the problem. When driving normally the transition is less than a second, and I hear the noise only for that time.

    I have a service manual, and I find no CVT adjustment. I spoke with a service writer and he confirmed that there is no adjustment. (He also said that there was a final drive belt adjustment, but I think he got confused with the Spyder that does have a final drive belt. So there's that.)

    I have a service appointment next week, so I will take it in if I can't figure this out beforehand.

    belt.jpg

  7. #7
    Active Member DickB's Avatar
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    I think that I figured out what the problem is. The sliding sheave on the driven pulley is stuck. The spring should be pulling the sliding sheave tight against the belt and the fixed sheave. Instead there is a big gap between the sheaves and belt. I don't have the tools to remove and disassemble this. I would also need to replace several bolts that must be discarded on disassembly, and replace bad parts - the bearing? I think I will leave this to the service department at this point.

    driven pulley.jpg sliding sheave 2.jpg

  8. #8
    Active Member Papa103's Avatar
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    From that picture I think you may have a broken secondary clutch spring. I had one break on my snowmobile and it felt like it was taking off in 2nd or 3rd gear (if it had gears). The belt should run out to the top of the secondary clutch when idling. If you don't have the tools to take the clutches apart, I would send it to the dealer. I don't think it's a big deal for them to fix.
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  9. #9
    Active Member DickB's Avatar
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    I've been meaning to post an update.

    I considered working on this myself, but I would have needed over $300 in special tools to do it, and I had only 2 weeks before a 2700 mile trip. I took it to a dealer. One of the rollers on the driven pulley had shattered. The service manager said they had seen this on Can Am ATVs that get abuse, but never on a Ryker. The dealer replaced the whole pulley assembly and belt, although the sheaves and belt looked fine. They did not notice that the belt had corrupted one of the noise shields. That came loose 20 miles from the dealer and destroyed the belt. I had to have the Ryker towed back to the dealer. To their credit they took parts from a showroom model and fixed it within 24 hours, as I was now 2 days from my scheduled trip (which went well fortunately!).



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  10. #10
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    Thank you for posting this information. I am sorry you had to experience this. Great dealer it seems like. Would have been better had they caught it, but they did the right thing in the end.

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