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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
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PhotoShop Master
Did they say why it happened ?
THOSE WHO LIVE BY THE SWORD DIE BY THE SWORD... BUT...THOSE WHO MASTER THE SWORD SURVIVE BY THE SWORD....
Rev. J. Proctor
reverendproctor.com
HAPPY SPYDER OWNER
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
In order to prevent the main shaft worn, the splines are made of a softer material.
2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
Shut up and Race!
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Originally Posted by docdoru
In order to prevent the main shaft worn, the splines are made of a softer material.
Heavy hand from dead stop will have a bit of stress to the splines...
Now question.. Splines in pulley or on the shaft??
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Originally Posted by effgjamis
Heavy hand from dead stop will have a bit of stress to the splines...
Now question.. Splines in pulley or on the shaft??
Pulley
2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
Shut up and Race!
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Very Helpful Member
Any pics of the bad pulley off the Spyder? I should have taken a few photos of my broken Spyder. On mine, the bolt in the center of the pulley sheared off about an inch inside the machine.
Former Happy Spyder Owner
Just decided it was time to move onto other things.
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SpyderLovers Founder
It's probably not a bad idea to lube that shat with some good moly grease. I would back off the tension a bit too.
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I'm getting a loud metalic snap that appears to becoming from
the back wheel assembly. It only does it during rolling the throttle on or
off and it isn't consistent (all the time).
What did yours sound like when you noticed the problem?
I had the bike at the dealer Friday ant they said it was probably
drive line wear and don't worry about it....That makes me feel good
as Gatlinburg is less than 2 weeks away.
Happy Spyder Owner!
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SpyderLovers Founder
I would check your wheel bearings to start with. I'm not sure why Brian's bolt broke on his but my guess is a bad bolt that was over torqued.
It could just be hard unlubricated miles on Doc's with a lot of belt tension.
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Originally Posted by TMehaffey
I'm getting a loud metalic snap that appears to becoming from
the back wheel assembly. It only does it during rolling the throttle on or
off and it isn't consistent (all the time).
What did yours sound like when you noticed the problem?
I had the bike at the dealer Friday ant they said it was probably
drive line wear and don't worry about it....That makes me feel good
as Gatlinburg is less than 2 weeks away.
Symptoms: grounding noise when pushed the bike forward; no noise when pull-it in reverse. Changed 2 bearings in the back (25 and 40,000 miles) and the belt was adjusted in the shop (sonic device). Waiting for parts...
2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
Shut up and Race!
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BRP update PE1424
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Originally Posted by Studybaker Bob
What is the PE1424????
Premier Edition 1424 (effgjamis): his Spyder.
He referred to the BRP DPS update June 2009.
2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
Shut up and Race!
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Very Helpful Member
My clicking or clunking noise was definitely coming from the motor / transmission area. It only was noticeable when I was decelerating and the engine reached about 3000 RPMs. If I pulled in the clutch, the noise went away.
Former Happy Spyder Owner
Just decided it was time to move onto other things.
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Finally wore something out on it besides the Hindle pipes?
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by bjt
My clicking or clunking noise was definitely coming from the motor / transmission area. It only was noticeable when I was decelerating and the engine reached about 3000 RPMs. If I pulled in the clutch, the noise went away.
Clicking and clunking is almost always a wheel bearing and if it load related then you can just about bet that's it. The noise will travel through the belt and it will sound like it's in the motor.
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by HDXBONES
Could be that output shaft bearing-causing the bolt to fail.....
I don't see how, unless you can move the shaft around by hand. The bolt is just a retainer and there is no load on it. My guess is he had a bad bolt to start with, somebody ran it on with an impact and it was just a matter of time before it broke.
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Doc, you are also missing you oil filter..should get that checked out..might slow you down..lol.
Very Happy Owner
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
Shut up and Race!
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
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Very Helpful Member
Thanks for those pics. Still no joy on my Spyder. I am supposed to call them tomorrow to see if they have any word yet. He told me the bolt I need was ordered Monday and it usually takes 3 - 5 days for parts to arrive from BRP depending on where they ship from and if they are in stock. He said he checked and they showed close to 1,000 in stock.
Former Happy Spyder Owner
Just decided it was time to move onto other things.
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counter shaft pulley
returning from a ride just 30 km from home, there was a lot of vibration from the back wheel. when i stopped it was like some one put a knife in the centre of the drive belt and cut the belt in halve.only one halve of the belt was left on the pulley and the remainder was on the teeth of the back pulley in big blobs of valcanised warm smelly rubber.after transporting the spyder home by truck i found that the bold had come out of the front pulley by half of a inch.i replaced the bolt some months ago with a non standard stronger bolt using LOCTITE 243.(the dealer did not have a brp bolt in stock nore dit brp austrlia, back order waiting time up to 6 weeks or more).there is a small groove in the engine just behind the line of the belt line near thefront pulley.it looks that the belt halve that is missing is the insite halve .when you did have problems with the shaft pulley did you have to replace the drive belt as well.the drive belt cost aus$ 600 from the dealer.iwill buy one from e,bay.
greetings henk
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Registered Users
Front Sprocket torque schedule
I hope everyone is remembering to re-torque that bolt every 6000 miles or 10,000 KM.
Per Service bulletin Dec 7,2009. Models: 2010 RS/RT, 2009 GS, 08 GS Model number : All. Torque range 110N/m to 120N/m or 81 to 89 foot pounds.
Ken krb1945
Ken krb1945 "Happy Owner"
USN DAV 100% 'er
Proud grandfather of a former United States Marine
1 2008 SM5 PE 548
1 2008 SM5, 1 2009 SE5
2008 GL1800
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Very Active Member
Ken, your posting to this thread says re-torque every 6k miles, but the attachment to the private email you sent me says its a one-time thing. Which is correct?
Enjoying now: 2015 Spyder F3 SE6, 1970 Indian MM-5A, 1972 Suzuki RV90J Rover, 2017 Indian Chieftain (wife's)
Wish-I-had-kept-them: 2008 Spyder GS SE-5, 1967 Shelby GT500 w/Paxton supercharger, 1972 DeTomaso Pantera, 1991, 1992 & 2001 Acura NSX's, 2012 V-Star 950 Tourer, various 2-, 3- and 4-wheelers
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RT-S PE#0060
I check mine every time I change oil set torque wrench at 85 lb ft
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