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  1. #1
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    Default 2010 Spyder RT - Shuts Down after I first take off

    After I took off this morning, the engine died. I could not get it started again, for about 3 to 5 minutes. It is not over heating, and there are no idiot lights flashing.

    Even with the Kill Switch in the on mode, nothing happened. It finally started, but it died again after a short distance. Once again, it would not start, until it rested for a few minutes. I had 1/3rd of a tank of gas, so I stopped to fill it up, and I added some Octane booster, and Sea Foam. It ran OK for about 5 miles, but then shut down again. I let it rest for about 5 minutes, and then it started. I ran it for about 90 miles, and made it home with no problem.

    I've had my RT for about 2 years, and this is the third time it has happened. It seems like every 6 to 8 months it will do this, then it will do the same thing.

    I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem, and what the "fix" was.

    Help

  2. #2
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    How old is the battery? Have you checked the connections to make sure they are tight? Any codes?
    2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)

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    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  3. #3
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    Hi Eviltwin,

    The battery is about 6 months old. The connections seems OK. I don't see any codes. The only "Dummy Light" is the one that says the RPMs.

    I sure would like to figure this out.

  4. #4
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    My gut instinct says it is something electrical, but no way to prove that yet. Because these bikes are so heavily dependent on the computer, any dips in voltage will cause weird stuff to happen. Switch contacts can also be another issue, especially on a 11 year old bike. I should know, I have a 2010 RT as well.

    If you havent yet tried to pull codes, take a looksee here: http://www.lamonstergarage.com/news/spyder-fault-codes/

    Happening over 3 years, maybe something loose under the tupperware? I would crank down on the battery terminals and also do a voltage check to make sure you are getting enough voltage to keep the ecu happy.
    2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)

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    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  5. #5
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Hmmmmmmm and I was thinking more of a fuel issue?
    1)have you changed the MAP sensor vacuum hoses?
    2)when was the lastime your fuel filter was changed?
    3) there must be a tank vent on these somewhere,could that have plugged and caused a fuel starvation vacuum in the tank?
    That's all the ideas I have.

    Happy TRAils/NSD
    Paul

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    2012 Spyder RT L , Baja Ron Plugs and wires Lava Bronze

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Two great post up there!!! The only thing I would like to ask is when you do get it running, what's it sound like is it smooth, RPM's running up and down the scale? When you apply the gas is it starving for fuel?
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  7. #7
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    if the Vacuum hoses are leaking, I would think it would cause the engine to run a bit rough all the time.

    A couple of other background questions, how many miles and have the original spark plug wires been replaced and the vac hoses just mentioned. How does the bike run otherwise, does it idle smooth or lumpy?
    2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)

    \
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  8. #8
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    Default Thanks. I will check it out.

    Quote Originally Posted by Eviltwin View Post
    My gut instinct says it is something electrical, but no way to prove that yet. Because these bikes are so heavily dependent on the computer, any dips in voltage will cause weird stuff to happen. Switch contacts can also be another issue, especially on a 11 year old bike. I should know, I have a 2010 RT as well.

    If you havent yet tried to pull codes, take a looksee here: http://www.lamonstergarage.com/news/spyder-fault-codes/

    Happening over 3 years, maybe something loose under the tupperware? I would crank down on the battery terminals and also do a voltage check to make sure you are getting enough voltage to keep the ecu happy.
    Thanks. I will check it out.

  9. #9
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    I checked out the website, and I can definitely check this out. I appreciate you helping me. I will let you know what I come up with.

  10. #10
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    Once it starts running, it is smooth. When it cuts out, that's when it sounds like there is no fuel.

  11. #11
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    I have close to 28,000 miles on it. I don't think the spark plug wires have been changed. Otherwise, it is running smoothly.

    P.S. thanks for the help.

  12. #12
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    I finally had a chance to see if there was a "Code." At this time, there was no active code.

    When it happens again, I'll know what to do.

    Thanks so much. Your advice was very helpful.

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