No Sound From Expernal Speakers? 2015 RT-S

[vienna7475]

I have a 2015 RTS SE6. I just finished changing my transmission filter, air filter and oil and was putting everything back together when my hand slipped and knocked one of my horn wires loose. I know there is power going to them as the horn will work when the bike is turned off. I reattached and horn still works. However when I powered on the bike no sound from the radio to the speakers. I pulled every small fuse from both fuse panels to verify none were blown. I looked at the big square fuses and none of them appear to be blown. Only thing left are the various main relay fuses. Haven’t pulled any of them as everything else works and rode the bile over 50 miles with no issues. I plugged in an SM10 and paired with my Cardo headset and verified the radio is outputting sound and changing stations. Aside from pulling one of the speakers to verify it isn’t blown is the last step in my testing process. Does anyone have any other suggestions where to look regarding the external speakers. I’ve gone through all of the dash radio settings and rechecked all my original settings and nothing has changed. Is there some unique combination of steps to perform to reset the radio like you do for hyper flashing turn signals? I’ve done YouTube searches and have yet to find anything on this type of issue.

[trikermutha]

is the sound bar on? Arrow up and down?

[vienna7475]

Yes. The bar moves up and down. Will turn the radio off if I run it all the way down. I confirmed the radio going off by listening through the SM10 and my Cardo headsets. My assumption is the hot wire from the horn touched the frame and sent some juice through the frame. Everything else on the bike is working. There has got to be a fuse or relay someplace I'm missing.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Yes. The bar moves up and down. Will turn the radio off if I run it all the way down. I confirmed the radio going off by listening through the SM10 and my Cardo headsets. My assumption is the hot wire from the horn touched the frame and sent some juice through the frame. Everything else on the bike is working. There has got to be a fuse or relay someplace I'm missing.

If the only thing " not working " are the speakers , then " shorting the horn " probably didn't cause that..... I would dis-connect the battery ( both leads ) and touch them together ( also remove key from ignition ) .... this will absolutely re-set eveything .... then try the speakers again ..... good luck .... Mike

[vienna7475]

If I disconnect the leads to the battery and touch them together my assumption is nothing will happen as there wouldn't be any juice in the system. Or, am I mistaken and their will be some residual juice and this causes a reset?

[JayBros]

Did you check in your audio preferences menu to see if the external speakers are still turned on?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

If I disconnect the leads to the battery and touch them together my assumption is nothing will happen as there wouldn't be any juice in the system. Or, am I mistaken and their will be some residual juice and this causes a reset?

Correct there will be NO juice in the system. ..... also make sure the key is removed from the igniton switch .... chipped keys " talk " to the ignition switch " antennae " .... Mike

[Peter Aawen]

If I disconnect the leads to the battery and touch them together my assumption is nothing will happen as there wouldn't be any juice in the system. Or, am I mistaken and their will be some residual juice and this causes a reset?

While I agree with what Mike told you above (especially the 'remove the key' bit ) there are a number of devices/systems in your Spyder that have 'stored memory' (like the Country/System settings, the ECM, & the radio pre-set stations) and those plus a few other 'non-stored memories' that will have a capacitor or similar to retain power (for things like the time delay for the mode pressing requirement, the brake pedal signal for starting 'in gear', & other similar stuff... ) - the 'stored memory' settings are protected by multiple safeguards to avoid losing their memories when you power down/remove the battery, but the 'non-stored memories' are effectively just the last used settings stored to make it quicker/easier to start up/operate again whenever called upon next. So once the ignition is off and there's no external source of power to the Spyder's systems coming from the battery, touching the disconnected battery leads together can empty those 'non-stored memories' to effectively allow the Spyder's systems to start from a fresh, uncompromised, & uncontaminated basis.

There's not really any 're-setting' going on as such, it's more just an emptying of all those extraneous but 'come in handy' memories the various computer systems & logic circuits keep around just to make things quicker/easier to get operating when called upon next... memories which also sometimes can cause issues or error messages to be retained when they have already been passed on to the operating system. . It's sorta like grounding out any static electricity from an aircraft before starting re-fuelling... it might be the thing that saves your life/the aircraft; then again, maybe not.... but do you want to risk it?? Not quite such an explosive potential on your Spyder, but it really won't hurt anything, and who knows, maybe it'll be juuust what's needed!

Ps: I know that what you've done shouldn't have changed the audio preferences/speaker settings, but I'm with JayBros on checking the audio preferences & speaker settings.... maybe the little power surge juuust managed to trigger a change in one element somewhere, and now your speakers are turned OFF! A long shot - Maybe?? But still worth checking!

[vienna7475]

Trust me. I've gone through all the menus and have made sure that the external speakers are on. I've even been looking at wiring diagrams to check for any cables that might be near the fuel filter as I was pulling it out to change it and want to be sure there's not a speaker wire that could have come unplugged when trying to maneuver the fuel filter. No luck on the wiring diagrams with respect to speaker wires as I know they run back to the right hand side where the radio is. Guess I will be talking to the service manager at my local Can-Am dealer on Tuesday to see what I might be overlooking. Good thing I just renewed my extended warranty.

[JayBros]

I've changed my fuel filter twice and there are no wires anywhere near it so you should be safe there.

[vienna7475]

I was at the dealer this morning and told the service manager about my issue and he doesn't have a clue. I told him about the suggestion of disconnecting the battery and touching the leads together and he said all I had to do was disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected for at least 10 minutes and this would do the same thing. Well I left the battery disconnected for 30 minutes and hooked it back up. Radio still had all my presets so I guess he was wrong. Still no sound from the speakers. Something tells me I'm going to have to get to one of the speakers and disconnect the leads and then use something else to attach to the speakers to verify they will still work.

[Mikey]

I am thinking there's a speaker wire unhooked from some where close to the radio it self!!

[Spiderfrog]

If the radio works and sound works through an alternant out put (Bluetooth / your helmet) then it would have to be the speakers, at lest the output to the speakers. Maybe the radio / EQ / amplifier has an internal fuse that blew? I find it hard to believe shorting out the horn would effect the signal output to the speakers. I agree with your earlier comment about missing a fuse or something. Not sure how the system is wired but normally disconnecting one speaker doesn't effect all of them just the one you disconnected. I'm curious what you find keep us posted.

[trikermutha]

SPEAKERS Speaker Resistance Test
1. Refer to BODYsubsection and remove the following: – Right middle side panel – Right top side panel – Right rear side panel.
2. Remove right radio control panel and switch assembly.
3. Disconnect radio connector.
4. Test the Passenger speaker resistance at the radio connector as per following table:
SPEAKER TESTING (AT RADIO CONNECTOR)
SPEAKER Radio CONNECTOR OHMS ( )
Front left speaker RDO1-3 PRC-2 3.2 to 4.3
Front right speaker RDO1-10 RDO1-1 3.2 to 4.3
Right rear speaker RDO1-26 RDO1-18 3.2 to 4.3
Left rear speaker RDO1-5 RDO1-4 3.2 to 4.3
If the resistance values of the speakers is within specification, perform the SPEAKER INPUT VOLTAGE TEST . If the resistance of one speaker is bad, check the resistance at the speaker terminals: – If good, check the continuity of the wires to the radio connector and repair as necessary. – If bad, replace the speaker.

I copied and pasted but these are the OHM tests for the speakers at the radio connector. I tried to align it but you see what happens.

[trikermutha]

SPEAKER INPUT VOLTAGE TEST
TEST PROBES on speaker terminals
NO VOLUME = 000 Vac
ONE HALF VOLUME = .300 Vac to 1.3 Vac

If the AC voltage test is good at the speaker terminals, replace the speaker. If the AC voltage reading at the speaker is not within specification, replace the radio.

[trikermutha]

The tests posted were for a 2014-2015 RTS

[vienna7475]

Thanks for providing me the testing info. I'll have to wait until I can coordinate with a friend who understands how to perform these resistance tests.