Pics- I looked under her dress- Left side

[Lamonster]

I remember BRP telling me I couldn't modify this Spyder but I don't remember them saying anything about taking it apart. As a matter of fact at dinner we were talking about future models of Spyders and Marc said maybe we need a Lamonster Spyder, then one of the guys said "yea it could come stock with all the panels removed".

So anyway I held out as long as I could but I just had to take something apart on the RT. I wanted to see what it would take to get to the battery if I needed to replace it. Jumping it would be no problem but replacing it takes a little more work, well a lot more work. Still it wasn't too bad.

Here's some pics of all the screws and panels you need to pull off.

First you pop the seat


Then you pop off the cover for the oil tank. There's no tools needed for this.


Then you pop the little cover in the trunk. There is a push pin to remove on it and a screw to remove under it.


Next you remove the mirror. No tools needed for this but you got to do it right. You pull out on the bottom and up to get over the pins. Be careful on this one.


Remove the two screws top and bottom.


One screw by the fuel tank. This has some pretty long tabs that slip into the other side so be carful when removing that too.


Remove the wind deflector.


The two screws on the left go nowhere, I'm not sure why they are there or if this is just a pre production thing. Remove the push pin and screw on the right.


You can pop this panel off now. As you can see there are pins on the panel that push into those rubber grommets.


Open the left saddle bag and remove the three screws.


Remove the push pin and screw.


There is a tab behind this panel, remove the screw and note that it is shorter than the others or at least it is on mine.


There's another short screw under the seat you need to remove too.


There are tabs on the saddle bag side that need to fish out. Be carful not to break those


So now we can take a look around. As you can see they gave you a nice long threaded nut to add a power lead and to clamp your jumper cables too. This can be done without removing any of the panels, just pop the seat.


I think this is where you plug in your CB or XM or maybe both. Not sure to be honest but you plug something in there as an option.


New air box


You will have to remove the saddle bag to take out the battery but once you have these panels off it's no big deal.


There's your air bag


Oil filter


Not sure what this is but I really didn't look that hard.


sensor


same crankcase breather


That's it. My guess is I'll have to take the right side off soon if I know me.

[spyderrider44]

Looks like a lot of stuff to removeto change a battery. And everytime you say be careful , i see me breaking something
Great pics. and write up. Love reading and watching your video's thanks for great job , sure make me want an RT-S

[Dudley]

And so many dealers have problems working on and putting the basic Spyder back together!!!!! This will be a nightmare.

[NancysToy]

I don't think it is so bad. Not much different than a fairing and bag equipped BMW, or similar tourer. Fewer screws than my BMW RT, for sure. The battery on a GS/RS Spyder is fairly hard to get to, especially if it has hard bags. I don't see this as much different, just a cost of doing business. You don't want you La-Z-Boy passenger seat to be held on with bungee cords, do ya?

[Lamonster]

And so many dealers have problems working on and putting the basic Spyder back together!!!!! This will be a nightmare.

Why do you say that? I had no Shop Manual to go by and it was pretty easy for me. I don't think it's any worst than a Goldwing or a BMW.

[Dudley]

Yes, but you are a bit more up on doing anything like this compared to many of us. Just my initial observation. Even with the I-7 GIVI setup I can get to the battery in about 15 minutes, maybe even less. We'll be seeing one at the Meet and Eat this Sunday. I'll probably think differently afterwards. Ryde Safe.

[Lamonster]

Yes, but you are a bit more up on doing anything like this compared to many of us. Just my initial observation. Even with the I-7 GIVI setup I can get to the battery in about 15 minutes, maybe even less. We'll be seeing one at the Meet and Eat this Sunday. I'll probably think differently afterwards. Ryde Safe.

Yea but you were talking about the Dealers, this will be no big deal for them. I'm pretty sure it would take me about the same time or close to it as it takes me to get my Corbin bags off to access the battery.

[Dudley]

You're probably right. The future will tell.

[smokster]

Too much Foo foo, like my first edition

[lawrenc454]

Looks like adding a 30amp line to the battery post and finding room for a relay won't be a problem. Was thinking of adding the relay, line and run a line up to the front trunk, next to the existing fuse box, and mount a Centech fuse block for extra lighting and gadgets. I guess for convenience I could mount it in the rear trunk. I'm overally cautious but I have always done that on our BMWs and Harleys and I add a switch on the dash to turn off all accessories. That way if there is a problem with the battery or charging system I can shut everything I have added off. Connectors look like AMP and are similar to the Harley plugs.

I have only been around the RT for a little while twice but if the area under the handlebars has a flat area with some access space from below i could use switches similar to those that BRP uses. Electrical Connection sells them as singles, doubles and triples and I have used the third empty spot for a Powerlet outlet for heated vests, etc..


Thanks for all of your photos, commentary and support for the Sypderlovers group.

Have a great holiday season.

[frank3]

Well, still wainting for delivery of new RT and because we have snow and it's very cold here, I don't think it will get a "first ride" for some time. Anyway, purchased a battery tender for the new machine and after looking at your pictures, wondering what problems I'll run into, hooking it up. Any advise?

[Lamonster]

Well, still wainting for delivery of new RT and because we have snow and it's very cold here, I don't think it will get a "first ride" for some time. Anyway, purchased a battery tender for the new machine and after looking at your pictures, wondering what problems I'll run into, hooking it up. Any advise?

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=15889

[frank3]

Thanks for the info lamonster. Guess I should of been able to figure that out after looking at you photos more closely. No one said I was smart. The older I get, the more I know, Its just soooo much trouble recalling ANY of it.
I assume everyone believes that a battery tender is a good idea? I have mixed feelings about battery tenders. they sometimes keep the battery too warm and as a result, you see some acid accumulation on the exterior surfaces. The old type batteries (with removable fill caps) liked to be drawn down and recharged. It seemed to improve life but I think the newer (maintenance fee) batteries really hate to be discharged too much and there have been some cases where too much discharge has caused a total battery failure. anyway, I plan to use the battery tender. Figure the Rt will be in storage till early spring.

[NancysToy]

The two screws on the left go nowhere, I'm not sure why they are there or if this is just a pre production thing. Remove the push pin and screw on the right.

On my PE those two screws are now tamper-proof. Guess they still go nowhere. They probably hold on the studs that fit into the rubber grommets, instead of them being cast into the cover, or perhaps to make them adjustable.

[Lamonster]

On my PE those two screws are now tamper-proof. Guess they still go nowhere. They probably hold on the studs that fit into the rubber grommets, instead of them being cast into the cover, or perhaps to make them adjustable.

They are for the pins that go into the grommets. Just never updated this post.

[srspyder]

[QUOTE=Lamonster;141948]I remember BRP telling me I couldn't modify this Spyder but I don't remember them saying anything about taking it apart.

I guess I thought you had purchased one. If you did, how long from ordering to delivery?

[AntelopeSpyder]

When are we going to get to see under the right side??

[Lamonster]

When are we going to get to see under the right side??

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=15846

[westgl]

Great pictures

Since you had the tuperware off it would have been a good time to hook up a charging connector, and let it hang out where you can get to it.

Westgl

[Lamonster]

Great pictures

Since you had the tuperware off it would have been a good time to hook up a charging connector, and let it hang out where you can get to it.

Westgl

Got it covered

[Wheeler~]

Lamont, I just wish you were my next door neighbor. What a font of knowlege and technical skills. To be able to tap into that by just going next door would be any Spyder owners dream.

[syclemom]

I see from your pics. of the cover to check the oil the front edge is smooth liike ours, are you aware later shipped bikes have two tabs off of the front edgeon both side covers to hook around the front edge to help prevent a blow off I assume, our friend just got her blue RTS and it has these tabs, after seeing the factory added these I tethered ours with small clasps ,epoxy, 4" bungy cords, I assumed they were added for a reason , should anyone blow one off they might question why they were added ,might help with replacement.