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  1. #1
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    Default Pics- I looked under her dress- Left side

    I remember BRP telling me I couldn't modify this Spyder but I don't remember them saying anything about taking it apart. As a matter of fact at dinner we were talking about future models of Spyders and Marc said maybe we need a Lamonster Spyder, then one of the guys said "yea it could come stock with all the panels removed".

    So anyway I held out as long as I could but I just had to take something apart on the RT. I wanted to see what it would take to get to the battery if I needed to replace it. Jumping it would be no problem but replacing it takes a little more work, well a lot more work. Still it wasn't too bad.

    Here's some pics of all the screws and panels you need to pull off.

    First you pop the seat


    Then you pop off the cover for the oil tank. There's no tools needed for this.


    Then you pop the little cover in the trunk. There is a push pin to remove on it and a screw to remove under it.


    Next you remove the mirror. No tools needed for this but you got to do it right. You pull out on the bottom and up to get over the pins. Be careful on this one.


    Remove the two screws top and bottom.


    One screw by the fuel tank. This has some pretty long tabs that slip into the other side so be carful when removing that too.


    Remove the wind deflector.


    The two screws on the left go nowhere, I'm not sure why they are there or if this is just a pre production thing. Remove the push pin and screw on the right.


    You can pop this panel off now. As you can see there are pins on the panel that push into those rubber grommets.


    Open the left saddle bag and remove the three screws.


    Remove the push pin and screw.


    There is a tab behind this panel, remove the screw and note that it is shorter than the others or at least it is on mine.


    There's another short screw under the seat you need to remove too.


    There are tabs on the saddle bag side that need to fish out. Be carful not to break those


    So now we can take a look around. As you can see they gave you a nice long threaded nut to add a power lead and to clamp your jumper cables too. This can be done without removing any of the panels, just pop the seat.


    I think this is where you plug in your CB or XM or maybe both. Not sure to be honest but you plug something in there as an option.


    New air box


    You will have to remove the saddle bag to take out the battery but once you have these panels off it's no big deal.


    There's your air bag


    Oil filter


    Not sure what this is but I really didn't look that hard.


    sensor


    same crankcase breather


    That's it. My guess is I'll have to take the right side off soon if I know me.

  2. #2
    Active Member spyderrider44's Avatar
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    Looks like a lot of stuff to removeto change a battery. And everytime you say be careful , i see me breaking something
    Great pics. and write up. Love reading and watching your video's thanks for great job , sure make me want an RT-S
    BIGD Love to Ride

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Dudley's Avatar
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    And so many dealers have problems working on and putting the basic Spyder back together!!!!! This will be a nightmare.
    Last edited by Dudley; 09-10-2009 at 05:01 PM.
    2008 GS SE5 in 2008
    Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
    2010 RT SM5 in 2011
    Traded at 57,000 for a left over
    2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
    Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
    Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!

    Never had any breakdown stranded issues.

  4. #4
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    I don't think it is so bad. Not much different than a fairing and bag equipped BMW, or similar tourer. Fewer screws than my BMW RT, for sure. The battery on a GS/RS Spyder is fairly hard to get to, especially if it has hard bags. I don't see this as much different, just a cost of doing business. You don't want you La-Z-Boy passenger seat to be held on with bungee cords, do ya?
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) & 2008 Spyder GS-SM5-PE (Nancy's)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 22 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  5. #5
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dudley View Post
    And so many dealers have problems working on and putting the basic Spyder back together!!!!! This will be a nightmare.
    Why do you say that? I had no Shop Manual to go by and it was pretty easy for me. I don't think it's any worst than a Goldwing or a BMW.

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Dudley's Avatar
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    Yes, but you are a bit more up on doing anything like this compared to many of us. Just my initial observation. Even with the I-7 GIVI setup I can get to the battery in about 15 minutes, maybe even less. We'll be seeing one at the Meet and Eat this Sunday. I'll probably think differently afterwards. Ryde Safe.
    2008 GS SE5 in 2008
    Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
    2010 RT SM5 in 2011
    Traded at 57,000 for a left over
    2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
    Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
    Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!

    Never had any breakdown stranded issues.

  7. #7
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dudley View Post
    Yes, but you are a bit more up on doing anything like this compared to many of us. Just my initial observation. Even with the I-7 GIVI setup I can get to the battery in about 15 minutes, maybe even less. We'll be seeing one at the Meet and Eat this Sunday. I'll probably think differently afterwards. Ryde Safe.
    Yea but you were talking about the Dealers, this will be no big deal for them. I'm pretty sure it would take me about the same time or close to it as it takes me to get my Corbin bags off to access the battery.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Dudley's Avatar
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    You're probably right. The future will tell.
    2008 GS SE5 in 2008
    Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
    2010 RT SM5 in 2011
    Traded at 57,000 for a left over
    2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
    Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
    Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!

    Never had any breakdown stranded issues.

  9. #9
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    Was that unidentified thing the solenoid for the parking brake?
    I saw a clutch lever, I thought you got an SE?

  10. #10
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Longlegs View Post
    Was that unidentified thing the solenoid for the parking brake?
    I saw a clutch lever, I thought you got an SE?
    Good guess

  11. #11
    Very Active Member GaryTheBadger's Avatar
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    Lamonster, now that you've shown the crankcase vent tube has not changed from the SE/SM, would you please check the air box for oil after about 1000 miles? Thank you.
    Last edited by GaryTheBadger; 09-11-2009 at 06:35 AM.
    Enjoying now: 2015 Spyder F3 SE6, 1970 Indian MM-5A, 1972 Suzuki RV90J Rover, 2017 Indian Chieftain (wife's)
    Wish-I-had-kept-them: 2008 Spyder GS SE-5, 1967 Shelby GT500 w/Paxton supercharger, 1972 DeTomaso Pantera, 1991, 1992 & 2001 Acura NSX's, 2012 V-Star 950 Tourer, various 2-, 3- and 4-wheelers

  12. #12
    Registered Users Some Guy's Avatar
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    Yes, please.

    Number One: 2008 Yellow GS SM5. I love my Spyder.
    Number Two: 2012 RT-S Limited (the poop colored RT) I still have Number One, but Some Girl made me buy Number Two...

  13. #13
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaryTheBadger View Post
    Lamonster, now that you've shown the crankcase vent tube has not changed from the SE/SM, would you please check the air box for oil
    after about 1000 miles? Thank you.
    I have 1400 miles on it now and I'm not showing any sign of oil, at least it's not dripping anywhere. When I pull the right side I'll take a good look.

  14. #14
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    Default Foot Rests

    Do you think those foot rests would fit a 2009, noticed it in the picture, these would be more comfortable then pegs?

  15. #15
    Registered Users flyntiger's Avatar
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    Default my guess

    My guess is that its the reverse motor switch. 4 going backwards.
    Happy spyder rider

  16. #16
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    Shame on you Lamont peeking under a lady's dress.
    Make sure you take lots of photos when you peek under the other side.

  17. #17
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fun2 View Post
    Do you think those foot rests would fit a 2009, noticed it in the picture, these would be more comfortable then pegs?
    The mounts are nothing like ours.

  18. #18
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    Left side exhaust pipe - at the bend - is a neat color.

    She's a hottie.

    Pete
    Happy Spyder Owner - so far

  19. #19
    Very Active Member Firefly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Longlegs View Post
    Was that unidentified thing the solenoid for the parking brake?
    I saw a clutch lever, I thought you got an SE?
    Either that or the electric trunk popper-- which I thought I heard it has???

    Nice pics---- would love to see more of the innards!

    Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
    Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
    Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
    Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!

  20. #20
    Registered Users krb1945's Avatar
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    Default Where did you put the...

    extra battery? /Ken
    Ken krb1945 "Happy Owner"
    USN DAV 100% 'er
    Proud grandfather of a former United States Marine
    1 2008 SM5 PE 548
    1 2008 SM5, 1 2009 SE5
    2008 GL1800

  21. #21
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    I m sorry .. I thought this was a Tiger thread .....
    Northramp
    2009 RED SE5, Very Happy Owner (1-15-09)

  22. #22
    Very Active Member smokster's Avatar
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    Too much Foo foo, like my first edition

  23. #23
    RT-S PE#0803 lawrenc454's Avatar
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    Smile Adding A Harness

    Looks like adding a 30amp line to the battery post and finding room for a relay won't be a problem. Was thinking of adding the relay, line and run a line up to the front trunk, next to the existing fuse box, and mount a Centech fuse block for extra lighting and gadgets. I guess for convenience I could mount it in the rear trunk. I'm overally cautious but I have always done that on our BMWs and Harleys and I add a switch on the dash to turn off all accessories. That way if there is a problem with the battery or charging system I can shut everything I have added off. Connectors look like AMP and are similar to the Harley plugs.

    I have only been around the RT for a little while twice but if the area under the handlebars has a flat area with some access space from below i could use switches similar to those that BRP uses. Electrical Connection sells them as singles, doubles and triples and I have used the third empty spot for a Powerlet outlet for heated vests, etc..


    Thanks for all of your photos, commentary and support for the Sypderlovers group.

    Have a great holiday season.

  24. #24
    RT-S PE#0180 frank3's Avatar
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    Default Battery access?????????

    Well, still wainting for delivery of new RT and because we have snow and it's very cold here, I don't think it will get a "first ride" for some time. Anyway, purchased a battery tender for the new machine and after looking at your pictures, wondering what problems I'll run into, hooking it up. Any advise?

  25. #25
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank3 View Post
    Well, still wainting for delivery of new RT and because we have snow and it's very cold here, I don't think it will get a "first ride" for some time. Anyway, purchased a battery tender for the new machine and after looking at your pictures, wondering what problems I'll run into, hooking it up. Any advise?
    http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=15889

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