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  1. #1
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    Default Starting a New Audio Project - 2018 RTL

    Hi All,

    I'm a noob here. First post. I have been working really hard to crack the algorithm for great sound on my wife's 2018 RTL. I've tried multiple speakers on the back signal to test vs the front stocks. I couldn't get anything the was a quality speaker to sound better and louder than stock. I determined that I hade to deal with the radio signal. I need to document this journey somewhere and this seems like a friendly place.

    Like I said, I have tried swapping speakers and BION the stock ones are the loudest. So to clean the sound, I chose a quality amplifier. I have had great success with the back speakers and will be tackling the fronts in July-Aug timeframe.

    Current State:
    - Front's are stock speakers w no mods.
    - Rear's are stock speaker (I measured at 3.6 ohms) w one amplifier (set on 4 ohm) per speaker.
    --- Rockford-Fosgate-PM100X1
    ----- Noteworthy: Marine quality. Uses the voltage in the speaker wire, so only butts in to the speaker connections and has a single ground wire (no power wire).
    --- These amps are set to 4ohm and 100h
    --- Fader is set one notch toward the front.

    Future State:
    - Rear
    --- Upgrade to stock 5.25 speakers.
    ----- I will have to mod the housing. Already have the speakers coming. They came out of the front of a 2019 RTL.
    ----- Change to 60h.
    ----- Set Fader flat.
    - Front
    --- I won't know until I learn the ohms and the wiring relationship of the woofers and tweeters. But I will use this thread to document.

    Here's some pics so far:

    Dottie RTL.jpg
    Dottie one amp viewpoint.jpg

    We will be at the Spyder Rally this weekend in Hot Springs if you want a look-see and chew the fat. The difference in sound quality between the front and the back is very easy to hear.

    Cheers!
    -Mark

    Keywords: audio, speakers, ohms, amplifier, louder, upgrade, sound, clearer

  2. #2
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Wishing you success with this Mark, a few have tried and failed ...... But as far as testing goes " radio signals " are not the best source .... use something that produces a sound that is constant and consistent ie. recorded music ( MP-3 etc. ) ..... hope you solve this mystery ..... I have a 14 RT and only had to swap the four speakers without an added Amp , I have excellent sound now ..... Mike
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-09-2021 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Fixed quote display

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I have a 14 RT and only had to swap the four speakers without an added Amp , I have excellent sound now
    I saw your youtube videos when I first started thinking about better audio. Very well done. I have also read a ton of these threads where people have tried and didn't get the results I would want. This is my first audio project ever and I am trying to learn the craft and do it myself so I can save money. I have multiple vehicles I want to upgrade the sounds on. Last month I bought a DD-1 plus. The DD-1 plus came with a selection of tracks designed to test the signal. And I just found out that I have access to a friend's oscilloscope if I need it. I have your kicker speakers and the polks sitting on deck and I have a Rockford-Fosgate-PM300X2 as well. Anything I don't use on this project will just get have to be used in another.

    I'm having trouble uploading a picture. I will try to edit and add here later.

    Let me know of any threads you think would be helpful. Cheers!

  4. #4
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkess View Post
    I saw your youtube videos when I first started thinking about better audio. Very well done. I have also read a ton of these threads where people have tried and didn't get the results I would want. This is my first audio project ever and I am trying to learn the craft and do it myself so I can save money. I have multiple vehicles I want to upgrade the sounds on. Last month I bought a DD-1 plus. The DD-1 plus came with a selection of tracks designed to test the signal. And I just found out that I have access to a friend's oscilloscope if I need it. I have your kicker speakers and the polks sitting on deck and I have a Rockford-Fosgate-PM300X2 as well. Anything I don't use on this project will just get have to be used in another.

    I'm having trouble uploading a picture. I will try to edit and add here later.

    Let me know of any threads you think would be helpful. Cheers!
    PM " Rattlebars " He has worked on this issue also ..... Prior to 2018 models, a speaker swap would work ..... But BRP did something radically different when they integrated the Audio into the instrument cluster. ..... I don't know why swapping to better speakers doesn't achieve what it did on pre 18 systems .... but it doesn't according to the few who have tried .... Good Luck .... Mike

  5. #5
    Active Member RideOn's Avatar
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    Default Think "systematically"

    As someone who has pursued audio systems as a serious hobby for most of my life (although I'm not an audio professional), the piece that I see missing in this discussion is the idea this is a "system" and not merely a collection of parts.

    For example, what you might call a "speaker" - either on the Spyder or at home - consists of at least two parts: the driver (the active part) and the enclosure (the passive part). They are meant to work together to create the desired sound. I think that helps to explain why the act of changing drivers does not always improve the "sound" of the system. It's a fairly complex interaction.

    But beyond that, there is also the synergy (ability to play well together) created by the separate parts of the audio system. As in computers, so in audio: garbage in, garbage out. If you play inferior sources (radio and, yes, highly compressed MP3s) then you will forever after have inferior sound. So swapping amplifiers, speaker drivers, etc. should be done on a trial-and-error basis to ensure this synergy by listening to the result. A "better" (usually read 'more expensive') amplifier may or may not improve the sound of the system. Without synergy, there is no improvement, only a parts swap. While system impedance and power matching might determine electrical compatibility, it does not promise synergy in the sound. Whether it is the insanely expensive or the cheap, crappy piece of electronics, each has a "sound" that may or may not improve the system unless it also contributes to synergy.

    That may be why, as Mike said, it's been difficult to improve much on the BRP setup. The manufacturer has complete control of all the parameters in the system. Parts substitution does not and cannot allow that. That does not mean you can't improve the sound, only that the path to improvement needs to be considered in the context of the system and not strictly at the component level.

    Bob
    “There comes a time in the affairs of men... when we must seize the bull by the tail and face the situation.” - W.C. Fields

    2019 Spyder RT Limited
    Asphalt Gray/Chrome

    Gone but not forgotten:
    2014 Spyder ST SE5
    Steel Black Metallic
    2019 RT Limited , Asphalt Gray/Chrome

  6. #6
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    Hi Bob. Everything I have seen and read has been around the changing of speakers, or changing speakers with adding amplifier(s). I have had great luck cleaning and amplifying the signal whilst keeping the stock speakers. I'm going to try and continue that for the fronts since the backs turned out stellar. Cheers!

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    Drove 4 hours to Hot Springs and one of the amps shutoff. It was a loose ground. I pulled the plastic in the shade at our hotel and set'er straight. Now that we are back, I will be pulling the front speakers. Depending on if the tweeter quits working when I pull the wire on the woofer, will determine whether I have to join signals or not before amp-ing them. I am leaning toward adding these small amps to the front woofers and setting the Htz on 60 and calling it done. I have the rears set to 100, but if the signal is seperated and not duplicated on the fronts, I could set the woofer amp to 60 easily. These little amps have proven their worth already on the rears. The sound is a little louder with them, but so much cleaner. Seems possible as a front solution now since a sub install does not really hold my wife's attention. She doesn't want to give up any space in the frunk. More to come.

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkess View Post
    Drove 4 hours to Hot Springs and one of the amps shutoff. It was a loose ground. I pulled the plastic in the shade at our hotel and set'er straight. Now that we are back, I will be pulling the front speakers. Depending on if the tweeter quits working when I pull the wire on the woofer, will determine whether I have to join signals or not before amp-ing them. I am leaning toward adding these small amps to the front woofers and setting the Htz on 60 and calling it done. I have the rears set to 100, but if the signal is seperated and not duplicated on the fronts, I could set the woofer amp to 60 easily. These little amps have proven their worth already on the rears. The sound is a little louder with them, but so much cleaner. Seems possible as a front solution now since a sub install does not really hold my wife's attention. She doesn't want to give up any space in the frunk. More to come.
    " Amps " ... why do you use more than one Amp ..... Mike

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    These amps (amplifiers) are per speaker. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575PM1...e-PM100X1.html

    They don't take any more power than the radio already reserves for the speakers. Thus, I don't need to improve battery or alternator. They are one channel amps.

    I got the fronts out. the woofers and tweeters are all 3.6 ohm speakers. And when I unplug the woofer - the tweeter still plays. So no I have to determine if the radio head unit is 4 channels to the front or 2 splits. I would assume 2 split channels. But I will confirm before I proceed with a solution design.

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    Very Active Member trikermutha's Avatar
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    I wonder how a DSP would work on the audio?

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkess View Post
    These amps (amplifiers) are per speaker. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575PM1...e-PM100X1.html

    They don't take any more power than the radio already reserves for the speakers. Thus, I don't need to improve battery or alternator. They are one channel amps.

    I got the fronts out. the woofers and tweeters are all 3.6 ohm speakers. And when I unplug the woofer - the tweeter still plays. So no I have to determine if the radio head unit is 4 channels to the front or 2 splits. I would assume 2 split channels. But I will confirm before I proceed with a solution design.
    $ 540.00 for Amps !!!! .... I have the OEM head unit + 4 - 5.25 JBL speakers and spent less $250.00 .... and I can't play it full volume because it hurts my ears. ... the quality of the sound imho is excellent. I wish you the best of luck on your Quest .... Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    I wonder how a DSP would work on the audio?
    After I installed the amps in the rear, I wondered that as well, but RockfordFosgate does good enough to clean it up. I tested the tweeters and the woofers in the front in a fun way. I ran just the woofer on the woofer wires then the tweeter wires. There is an audible difference in bass from the woofer wires. I did the same with the tweeters and I knew right then that the signal really needs more separation. I think I'm going to add this amp to the woofers and set the pass for mid (and experiment with a PLC w Clipping Indicator and bass boost). Then I'm just going to put a filter on the tweeters and leave them unamplified (for now).

    Frunk Amp.jpg Front Woofer and Tweeter wires.jpg

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