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  1. #1
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    Default Trailer loading problems

    Hello, my wife bought a 2012 RS in April. However I own 2 different types of trailers from the same trailer company and I cannot load it in either due to the low ride height. Is anyone else having to add extra ramp length to load their Spyder? What trailers would you suggest?

  2. #2
    Active Member 3 wheeler's Avatar
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    This is what I bought to tilt my trailer to the proper angle so I didn't have to buy longer ramps.

    http://www.tiltahitch.com/
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  3. #3
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    Tried to back up it first?

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    I have a Haulmark low profile motorcycle trailer (enclosed) with the ramp door and have no problem loading my RT.

  5. #5
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    The nose is really low on the RT and many people have had the same problem as you. If you try searching you should probably find some old posts about how others overcame the problem. You may have to wade through a few pages of irrelevant info but I know that this has been talked about in the past. Good luck, I hope you figure out an easy solution. And welcome to spyderlovers.com
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  6. #6
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    A couple of 2x6's about 24 inches long temporarily attached to the end of the loading ramp will probably give you the needed clearance. My loading ramp is expanded metal so I simply use a pin through each 2x6 and a hole in the expanded metal to attach them. If I was smart enough to post a picture, I would. Bottom line is, I bet you don't need to spend the money to buy a new trailer. Cotton

  7. #7
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    Backing up on the trailers the nose hits.

    IMG_4038.jpg

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy View Post
    A couple of 2x6's about 24 inches long temporarily attached to the end of the loading ramp will probably give you the needed clearance. My loading ramp is expanded metal so I simply use a pin through each 2x6 and a hole in the expanded metal to attach them. If I was smart enough to post a picture, I would. Bottom line is, I bet you don't need to spend the money to buy a new trailer. Cotton
    I do this as well - 2 x 6's are 3 ft. long and I even got some ends for them which makes the transition smooth. The bold through about 10" from one end ensures they stay in place. Caution, don't haul your bike backwards unless you remove the windshield.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy View Post
    A couple of 2x6's about 24 inches long temporarily attached to the end of the loading ramp will probably give you the needed clearance. Cotton
    Sometimes the simplist solutions can get overlooked.
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    Another option is to raise the front of the trailer which will lower/level out the ramp.

  11. #11
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    Lots of solutions...

    Extended wooden or metal ramps
    Back up to a hill
    Prop up the ramps with a 2x6 or 2x8 (or a curb)
    Jack up the tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer (still attached to the tow vehicle)
    Lower the rear suspension setting to raise the front before loading
    Increase the front spring preload setting (or install Elka shocks)

    Although it will lower the front of the Spyder a bit more, I would also suggest installing a SpyderPops BumpSkid to protect the bodywork.
    Last edited by NancysToy; 07-22-2013 at 11:21 AM.

  12. #12
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    I have tried that also.

  13. #13
    Active Member schnauzermom's Avatar
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    Default Loading Ramps

    loading ramp.jpgThis is what we use, loads right over your trailer ramp.....the middle tire tracks in between.

  14. #14
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    Default There you go...!!

    Several solutions... seems the best, as to not have more loose boards to forget or disappear, is the "Tiltahitch" don't have to change or add another trailer to your barn..good luck..!!
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  15. #15
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    Drive at the ramp at an angle so the front tire hits first. Not too tough

  16. #16
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    If you are not in an area of high traffic, try backing your trailer wheels into an indentation of a driveway. The drain/gutter area to the street is lower than the road surface, so the ramp is not at such a high angle. Works for me...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by captblack View Post
    I do this as well - 2 x 6's are 3 ft. long and I even got some ends for them which makes the transition smooth. The bold through about 10" from one end ensures they stay in place. Caution, don't haul your bike backwards unless you remove the windshield.
    i did about the same thing with a couple of 40" long 2x8's and cut 22 1/2 degree angles in opposite directions on the top and bottom on both ends. works slick!!!

  18. #18
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    gosh,I thought Harley riders were the only ones that needed a trailer.lol I have been riding with Harley riders for about the last 8 years.When I need a tow I just call AAA and ask for a rollback and that has happened a few times.You just never know when or where.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gsmoth9504 View Post
    If you are not in an area of high traffic, try backing your trailer wheels into an indentation of a driveway. The drain/gutter area to the street is lower than the road surface, so the ramp is not at such a high angle. Works for me...
    I put the trailer wheels in a dip too. I also have 2 2 x 6's nailed together with a slant cut on one end, a mini ramp of sorts. I back the tow vehicle wheels up on those to give the trailer a flatter ramp angle. It helps too.

  20. #20
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    Default New Trailer Works Great

    I decided on an Aluma Trailer. It is very light weight, I can move it by hand even when bike is on it. To drive on and off with out problems the dealer added the two fold out panels shown on the bottom. It works great and looks good.my ramp.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images

  21. #21
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    Default Drop Tail

    Quote Originally Posted by GreenRider View Post
    I decided on an Aluma Trailer. It is very light weight, I can move it by hand even when bike is on it. To drive on and off with out problems the dealer added the two fold out panels shown on the bottom. It works great and looks good.my ramp.JPG
    Have a drop tail that works great. Back platform is hydrolic, easy on the old man. Check video out at www.droptail.com Good luck.

  22. #22
    Registered Users Ronbo's Avatar
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    Default Trailer

    Quote Originally Posted by ABQAndy View Post
    I have a Haulmark low profile motorcycle trailer (enclosed) with the ramp door and have no problem loading my RT.
    Ditto. 2013 RT LTD

  23. #23
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    Default Ramps

    We had a new all Alum like landscape trailer made for our 2012 RTL !! When we got it home same thing, couldn't drive it on we did go to another trailer dealer and have them make an add on piece. But until that was made we also made two 2x4 and laid them on the end of the ramp and the bike went right up without any trouble. We also did the motorcycle ramps to get it on the trailer for a while? But you need to be exact to ride it up on that way made me to nervous!

  24. #24
    formerly pman2011 YIRYDE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenRider View Post
    I decided on an Aluma Trailer. It is very light weight, I can move it by hand even when bike is on it. To drive on and off with out problems the dealer added the two fold out panels shown on the bottom. It works great and looks good.my ramp.JPG
    Greenrider

    Can you let me know which model Aluma trailer you have and the dealer that you purchased it from. I don't know if you remember me but we met on the Skyline drive ride last year.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenRider View Post
    I decided on an Aluma Trailer. It is very light weight, I can move it by hand even when bike is on it. To drive on and off with out problems the dealer added the two fold out panels shown on the bottom. It works great and looks good.my ramp.JPG
    That is a very nice mod to the Aluma... I have the Aluma 6810 and usually have no problem but do carry a couple of short pcs of 2x6 to use if needed.

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