Fans running a lot??

[trikermutha]

Thanks Pete

Its been a long week..

[Lew L]

.

And how do we get the temp in degrees???? I have a digital infra red thermometer w/laser pointer. Could aim it at the CTS and take an Ohms reading i guess.

[trikermutha]

Suppose you could use a heat gun.

As long as the readings are close to the temperature in ohms it should be good.

If you want to test at different temps try a heat gun, hair dryer to test. You can use your laser thermometer to reference the Fahrenheit at the sensor.

[Lew L]

.

Well got the new CTS and it tested well especially in the 176* at 312 Ohms. R and R the coolant and CTS this weekend.

Much thanks to all you guys who spent your time helping me on this fix. Shop would have been $125/hr to diagnose and probably another hour to replace.

Lew L

PS: They had 11 ( eleven) in stock. This says to me that this is another cheaply sourced product that BRP buys with LOW Quality Control.

[trikermutha]

So you installed a New CTS was the old one bad??

remember to run the engine till the fan turn on after the coolant change. This way you know the thermostat has opened.

[UtahPete]

. Well got the new CTS and it tested well especially in the 176* at 312 Ohms. R and R the coolant and CTS this weekend.

I hope you will be able to take pictures of the procedure and post them here. That would be great!

[Lew L]

So you installed a New CTS was the old one bad??

remember to run the engine till the fan turn on after the coolant change. This way you know the thermostat has opened.

I was planning on a test run and watch the gauges. It's getting hot here and the fans will come on. Thank again

[Lew L]

I hope you will be able to take pictures of the procedure and post them here. That would be great!

After taking off the sound deadening /support panel on the left of the spyder ( the one you remove for air filter access), it's a tight fit but quite obvious where the CTS is. A deep reach socket with a u-joint will pull it right out. The CTS is made by Bosch---- you think they would last a long time.

[Lew L]

So you installed a New CTS was the old one bad??

remember to run the engine till the fan turn on after the coolant change. This way you know the thermostat has opened.

I tested it in place, using the digital laser infrared thermometer, test leads with alligator clips, and a Fluke 23. I'll test it when I pull it out using hot water and a high temp digital thermometer.

[trikermutha]

I tested it in place, using the digital laser infrared thermometer, test leads with alligator clips, and a Fluke 23. I'll test it when I pull it out using hot water and a high temp digital thermometer.

So the test passed for the CTS. or was that the new one and you are still going to test the old?

Anyway good luck

[Lew L]

So the test passed for the CTS. or was that the new one and you are still going to test the old?

Anyway good luck

Yes I'll still test the old one with hot water ( and the appropriate tools). New one tested fine. Will be draining the coolant today and replacing the CTS. I was amazed that the local dealer: 1. had it in stock and 2. Had 11 of them in stock.

[trikermutha]

Yes I'll still test the old one with hot water ( and the appropriate tools). New one tested fine. Will be draining the coolant today and replacing the CTS. I was amazed that the local dealer: 1. had it in stock and 2. Had 11 of them in stock.

Cool sounds like your all set.

[Lew L]

.

Well maybe not as the old CTS tested ok and in spec. I'll run it for a while in the 82* weather today and well see.

[UtahPete]

I was amazed that the local dealer: 1. had it in stock and 2. Had 11 of them in stock.

Maybe it's the same one used in the other machines with the same engine (snowmobiles, ATVs, PWCs)

[trikermutha]

Still wondering about the water pump and thermostat.

[Lew L]

.

Well------ All seems well. Ran it for 45 min , much of it uphill. Did some low and slow, and idling. Fans came on and off. Seemed very normal. Checked the reservoir half an hour after I got home and added a bit to the half way between the hot and cold marks.
There will be more ryding in hot weather also. In the end I don't know why it overheated as the old CTS tested within spec with proper testing.

Again , I thank all of you guys who helped me .

Lew L

[trikermutha]

Besides the water pump and thermostat I am sure you flushed the radiators out?

It just dont over heat for no reason.

Still may have a sticky thermostat.

Well good luck!

[Lew L]

.
Radiators flushed before filling. An intermittent connection could cause problems also. Isn't the thermostat built into the water pump???? I'll check the schematics to see if it's a seperate item like all the other vehicles.
Lew L

[trikermutha]

The thermostat is part of the water pump.. Well hope your right on the connection.

Thermostat Test

Water pump module installed in vehicle Start engine and let engine heat up to operating temperature (higher than 80°C (176°F)).

Check if the main supply hose from radiator to water pump module heats up with engine at operating temperature.

[Lew L]

.

Still doing short (20 to 30) mile rydes in warm to hot weather. Will check hoses next time I ryde and then put the spyder up unless that hose is accessible from the right side with out tupperware removal.

Thanks again triker-your info has been invaluable.

Lew L

[Lew L]

.

Checked the hose. Is it the one that comes out of the right hand radiator???? Was warm to warmer but not hot and the fans had just been on, temp gauge was normal. Puzzling??

[trikermutha]

The flow chart shows that hose is flowing out of the engine from the water pump and they return thru the radiators back out the top to the water pump .

There should be a T- to feed both radiators at the bottom. That flows out of the engine thru the water pump out the top of the radiators back to the water pump.

Have your laser thermometer handy?

[Lew L]

The flow chart shows that hose is flowing out of the engine from the water pump and they return thru the radiators back out the top to the water pump .

There should be a T- to feed both radiators at the bottom. That flows out of the engine thru the water pump out the top of the radiators back to the water pump.

Have your laser thermometer handy?

Yes I do..........I think the one I checked was coolant that has gone through the radiator. This is NOT the one you're talking about?

[trikermutha]

Start checking radiator temps,hoses etc.

Here is when the fans turn on.

Turn on @ 102°C (216°F)
Turn off @ 96°C (205°F)


Radiator cap opening pressure.90 kPa (13 PSI)

[trikermutha]

The cooling system keeps the temperature constant. A separate coolant tank ensures that enough engine coolant is in the circuit during any operating condition. The coolant flow comes from the water pump module and goes into the cylinder head. Afterwards coolant is directed to the oil radiator for cooling the engine oil, and to the cylinder block. In the cylinder head the water channels flow around the exhaust and then the intake valves. From there the coolant goes back to the water pump module. At cold engine coolant flows through a bypass channel to the thermostat directly back to the water pump impeller and back into the engine. When engine has reached operating temperature the thermostat opens completely and closes the bypass channel completely. Then coolant takes the way through the radiator.