Fans running a lot??

**bluewoo** · 06-20-2021, 08:03 AM

Too bad you cant just run some vinegar through those radiators to eliminate any lime/calcium build up. Anytime one is topped off with tap water will start this issue with build up.
Cant wait to see the water pump pulled!
Thanks for keeping us updated!!!

**Lew L** · 06-20-2021, 10:06 AM

Originally Posted by Peter Aawen

Was this code when you had the CTS unplugged?!? And you haven't got this code any other time??

It'll be interesting to hear if you do have any waterpump/thermostat &/or plastic gear issues...

The only time I got a code was when I pulled the CTS plug to check for fan operation.(P0118) Never got any codes from O/H out on the road.

**Lew L** · 06-20-2021, 10:11 AM

Originally Posted by bluewoo

Too bad you cant just run some vinegar through those radiators to eliminate any lime/calcium build up. Anytime one is topped off with tap water will start this issue with build up.
Cant wait to see the water pump pulled!
Thanks for keeping us updated!!!

This episode of O/H was the only time I added ANYTHING to the coolant reservoir and even then it wasn't much. It has since been drained and refilled with proper coolant.

Pump should be here next week along with some cooler weather.

**UtahPete** · 06-20-2021, 12:26 PM

Originally Posted by Lew L

This episode of O/H was the only time I added ANYTHING to the coolant reservoir and even then it wasn't much. It has since been drained and refilled with proper coolant.

Pump should be here next week along with some cooler weather.

Where did you get it and what was the cost, Lew?

**Lew L** · 06-20-2021, 12:57 PM

Originally Posted by UtahPete

Where did you get it and what was the cost, Lew?

Local dealer ( Michaels Powersports of Reno) $290 or so out the door. Close to the same as cheepcycleparts.com with taxes. I try to do local brick and mortar even if it costs a few cents more. THe CTS I recently bought there was the same situation.

Pictures you requested will be coming soon.

**Lew L** · 06-20-2021, 03:32 PM

20210620_132812.jpg

Here ya go Pete. Tight spaces but a long extension with a Torx bit will do a treat. If I had not removed the ECU , it would dominate the picture.

Edit: Well it's not the ECU hiding the water pump---- it's the brains for the SE transmission. Still easy to remove .

**Lew L** · 06-23-2021, 09:57 PM

.

New pump and thermostat have arrived with the associated parts ( including a plastic gear

) Looks like the impeller can be accessed by removing a few screws ( on the old pump!!!)

**Lew L** · 06-23-2021, 10:40 PM

The infamous plastic gear
Water pump.jpg

and the new pump
waterpump.jpg

Soon to be installed and will do surgery on the old pump to see if the impeller has failed on not.

**trikermutha** · 06-24-2021, 03:18 AM

I also be wondering about the thermostat that's on that pump.
Hope it takes care of your problem.

**Mikey** · 06-24-2021, 06:35 AM

Did you change or test the sender unit? I find it hard to believe that if that bikes getting that hot that it's not boiling over or snapping and crackling when it's shut off!!

**Lew L** · 06-24-2021, 09:09 AM

Originally Posted by Mikey

Did you change or test the sender unit? I find it hard to believe that if that bikes getting that hot that it's not boiling over or snapping and crackling when it's shut off!!

YES, to both, and the sending unit was good but replaced anyway.

No steam or puddles of coolant seen by me or my fellow ryders. I found it hard to believe also Mikey.........

**UtahPete** · 06-24-2021, 09:22 AM

Originally Posted by Mikey

Did you change or test the sender unit? I find it hard to believe that if that bikes getting that hot that it's not boiling over or snapping and crackling when it's shut off!!

At this point there is no evidence of overheating other than a dash gauge reading, am I right?

**UtahPete** · 06-24-2021, 10:33 AM

Originally Posted by Lew L

The infamous plastic gear
Water pump.jpg

and the new pump
waterpump.jpg

Soon to be installed and will do surgery on the old pump to see if the impeller has failed on not.

However this turns out for you, your experience with the issue and investigation into the old pump and thermostat will prove invaluable to the rest of us.

**Lew L** · 06-24-2021, 11:32 AM

Originally Posted by UtahPete

At this point there is no evidence of overheating other than a dash gauge reading, am I right?

Yes------ both gauges showed overheating (digital and analogue-)--- which get their reading from the ECU through the CTS( Which was replaced, both were tested and worked correctly).

**PMK** · 06-24-2021, 03:34 PM

Deleted

**Lew L** · 06-24-2021, 05:00 PM

Light from a hand held LED flashlight easily shines through the radiator fins. They were thoroughly cleaned( and not very dirty at all) when I had the frunk off 2 years ago and get checked at each oil change. BUT they haven't been closely checked this season. I'll do that next.

Thanks, Lew L

EDIT: The fins are clean . We don't get the bugs like many other parts of the country. Will check for damaged wires when I'm deeper into the

doing the pump R&R( I do try to keep the mice in check with traps and poison now that I don't have the dogs.

**PMK** · 06-24-2021, 07:43 PM

Deleted

**Lew L** · 06-25-2021, 06:55 PM

.

New pump installed. AND dripping coolant

Not from the 4 hose connections but it seems where the pump attaches to the block. So I'll be draining out the coolant, undoing the hoses, and refitting the pump. Any suggestions from a member who has actually R&R the coolant pump on a 1330 motor would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Lew L

**bluewoo** · 06-25-2021, 07:19 PM

Maybe put some Vaseline on the o rings that seal to the head?
Make sure the o rings didn't move.

**trikermutha** · 06-25-2021, 07:23 PM

NOTICE To prevent leaking, take care that the gaskets are exactly in groove when you reinstall the water pump module. Tighten screws to specification .

There is a torque sequence.

1: Lower middle
2: Right lower
3:Left lower
4:Right upper
5: Left upper.

11 N•m ± 1 N•m
(97 lbf•in± 9 lbf•in)

Manual says use engine oil on the gaskets

**Lew L** · 06-25-2021, 10:15 PM

Originally Posted by trikermutha

NOTICE To prevent leaking, take care that the gaskets are exactly in groove when you reinstall the water pump module. Tighten screws to specification .

There is a torque sequence.

1: Lower middle
2: Right lower
3:Left lower
4:Right upper
5: Left upper.

11 N•m ± 1 N•m
(97 lbf•in± 9 lbf•in)

Manual says use engine oil on the gaskets

A fellow Spyder lover sent me the manual section for the coolant pump R&R. It said to use motor oil on the thrust bearing. I'll reread it for gasket prep.

ANd yes it did say to lube the gaskets with motor oil --- I do like high vacuum silicone grease though.

**trikermutha** · 06-26-2021, 06:46 AM

Originally Posted by Lew L

A fellow Spyder lover sent me the manual section for the coolant pump R&R. It said to use motor oil on the thrust bearing. I'll reread it for gasket prep.

ANd yes it did say to lube the gaskets with motor oil --- I do like high vacuum silicone grease though.

Before installation lubricate: – Water pump shaft – Washers – Axial needle bearing – O-ring.

**Mikey** · 06-26-2021, 06:56 AM

Hope you haven't pinched the ring!!

**Lew L** · 06-26-2021, 12:40 PM

Originally Posted by Mikey

Hope you haven't pinched the ring!!

. New pump removed, no crushed O-ring and other washer in place. There is the bleeder "plug" that nobody has mentioned in the last 30 or so replies. It falls out easily. It was fine also. No crushed anything ( except my right arm). Every washer and bearing is now lubed. I'll wiggle the pump back in place and tighten to spec.

Sure would like to here from someone who has actually replaced a waterpump on a 1330????

**trikermutha** · 06-26-2021, 12:48 PM

Be careful of the bleeder plug.

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