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Red dust of death on front sprocket
I've been trying to follow this topic on SL, but between ambiguous subject headings and the SL search engine's characteristics, I've been unable to find a definitive answer to my questions.
I'm assuming it is only the 1330 ACE engine that is affected, which is why I posted In this category. My questions are these;
Which model years are affected by these faulty front sprockets?
Is it only the 1330 engine that is affected?
Is it primarily the F3 engines that are affected, and if so, how are they different from the ones in the RT?
If RT engines are also susceptible, then how concerned should I be with two 2014 RTLs?
If I should be checking periodically for this issue, how do I expose the front pulley for inspection?
Since I do all my own maintenance because my local Can-Am dealer no longer sells or services Spyders, I want to be proactive about this issue before it becomes a major repair job or a breakdown on a long distance trip. Thank you in advance.
2014 RTL Platinum
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if you dont down shift manually using the engine as a brake dont worry
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Originally Posted by UtahPete
I've been trying to follow this topic on SL, but between ambiguous subject headings and the SL search engine's characteristics, I've been unable to find a definitive answer to my questions.
I'm assuming it is only the 1330 ACE engine that is affected, which is why I posted In this category. My questions are these;
Which model years are affected by these faulty front sprockets?
Is it only the 1330 engine that is affected?
Is it primarily the F3 engines that are affected, and if so, how are they different from the ones in the RT?
If RT engines are also susceptible, then how concerned should I be with two 2014 RTLs?
If I should be checking periodically for this issue, how do I expose the front pulley for inspection?
Since I do all my own maintenance because my local Can-Am dealer no longer sells or services Spyders, I want to be proactive about this issue before it becomes a major repair job or a breakdown on a long distance trip. Thank you in advance.
From myfollowing on this subject…..the 1330 engine seems to be the primary engine with this issue as of late.
I would think the F3 model gets more attention due to how easy it is to check visually, fewer body panels.
I believe it’s a 10k inspection service event that should be added to the maintenance routine…..to each their own.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by UtahPete
I've been trying to follow this topic on SL, but between ambiguous subject headings and the SL search engine's characteristics, I've been unable to find a definitive answer to my questions.
I'm assuming it is only the 1330 ACE engine that is affected, which is why I posted In this category. My questions are these;
Which model years are affected by these faulty front sprockets?
Is it only the 1330 engine that is affected?
Is it primarily the F3 engines that are affected, and if so, how are they different from the ones in the RT?
If RT engines are also susceptible, then how concerned should I be with two 2014 RTLs?
If I should be checking periodically for this issue, how do I expose the front pulley for inspection?
Since I do all my own maintenance because my local Can-Am dealer no longer sells or services Spyders, I want to be proactive about this issue before it becomes a major repair job or a breakdown on a long distance trip. Thank you in advance.
Which model years are affected by these faulty front sprockets?
All. The sprockets are not faulty.
Is it only the 1330 engine that is affected?
No. Was a big topic on SpyderLovers in 2011 when I joined. The 1330 engine did not exists yet.
Is it primarily the F3 engines that are affected, and if so, how are they different from the ones in the RT?
There is no difference.
If RT engines are also susceptible, then how concerned should I be with two 2014 RTLs?
Don't be that concerned. Drive more worry less.
If I should be checking periodically for this issue, how do I expose the front pulley for inspection?
Inspect at every oil change/service. Never owned an RT so do not know specifically how to remove the side panel(s)
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by fatboy
if you dont down shift manually using the engine as a brake dont worry
I don't believe that.
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Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-28-2021 at 09:05 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
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Very Active Member
Red Dust
I have a 14 RT with 58,000 + mi. ..... so far No Red dust ..... generally speaking I Let the computer downshift ..... good luck ... Mike
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
I have a 14 RT with 58,000 + mi. ..... so far No Red dust ..... generally speaking I Let the computer downshift ..... good luck ... Mike
Thanks Mike.
2014 RTL Platinum
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Pete, To check,
Remove left mirror, wind deflector, black frunk panel, upper side panel, middle side panel, push on side panel, splash guard, black lower panel. The front pulley is easy to see then.
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Originally Posted by cptjam
Pete, To check,
Remove left mirror, wind deflector, black frunk panel, upper side panel, middle side panel, push on side panel, splash guard, black lower panel. The front pulley is easy to see then.
Thanks, Cap'n!
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
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Originally Posted by Cobwebs
Just confirming if a massive burnout in reverse has the same effect?
Do you really think this answers any of my questions? It doesn't.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Originally Posted by UtahPete
I've been trying to follow this topic on SL, but between ambiguous subject headings and the SL search engine's characteristics, I've been unable to find a definitive answer to my questions.
I'm assuming it is only the 1330 ACE engine that is affected, which is why I posted In this category. My questions are these;
Which model years are affected by these faulty front sprockets? From my group its been 2014 thru to 2020
Is it only the 1330 engine that is affected? Havent seen it on the Rykers
Is it primarily the F3 engines that are affected, and if so, how are they different from the ones in the RT? They use the same front Sprocket, and yes both models are affected
If RT engines are also susceptible, then how concerned should I be with two 2014 RTLs? It seems pot luck
If I should be checking periodically for this issue, how do I expose the front pulley for inspection? With mine I just bend down and have a look with a torch, but its usually visible in daylight
Since I do all my own maintenance because my local Can-Am dealer no longer sells or services Spyders, I want to be proactive about this issue before it becomes a major repair job or a breakdown on a long distance trip. My last one was replaced by BRP at no charge and I am out of Warranty. Its my third. I do however have the spyder serviced at the dealership that convinced BRP to replace my Front Sprocket and Headlights at my 60,000km service outside warranty. I do think there is some benefit in having a relationship with a good dealership who gets to know you and your habits Thank you in advance.
My responses in bold in your quoted message
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Very Active Member
If paying someone, ensure they are willing to correctly accomplish the work, AND are willing to apply lubricant on reassembly.
Last edited by PMK; 02-07-2022 at 05:27 AM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by fatboy
if you dont down shift manually using the engine as a brake dont worry
Not true. I have 24k miles on my 2016 F3T and have downshifted manually less than 1% of the time. My front pulley just starting to show signs of the red dust of death. My 2014 RT was a manual and had no pulley issues at 28k miles.
2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
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Very Active Member
I stuck my phone up by the pulley and took this picture that shows only road dust. Done without removing tupperware panels.
2018 RT Ltd - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix
2018 RT Ltd Chrome - Champagne Metallic - Lake Stevens, Wa
(Champagne/Hooker) Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Vredestein and PPA Orb wheels on front and General out back, and driver backrest.
Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zumo XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer trike up North; and Hookie my winter trike down South.
(Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM driver's backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with voltmeter, dash cam, foam grips - Magic Mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.
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Originally Posted by Snoking1127
I stuck my phone up by the pulley and took this picture that shows only road dust. Done without removing tupperware
That brings up an interesting tongue-in-cheek question; how does a Utah red rock country Spyder rider know?
Thanks for the tip; that's a simple way to check for the 'red dust' issue.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Originally Posted by blacklightning
Not true. I have 24k miles on my 2016 F3T and have downshifted manually less than 1% of the time. My front pulley just starting to show signs of the red dust of death. My 2014 RT was a manual and had no pulley issues at 28k miles.
The majority seem to think, like you, that downshifting has no bearing on the front pulley red dust issue. So, I'm inclined to think that's a myth.
Does anyone know what causes the problem, which doesn't appear to be limited to just certain models or years?
2014 RTL Platinum
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Originally Posted by PMK
That’s seriously funny. First about not downshifting, then saying “don’t worry”.
Best course of action, remove the pulleys on your machine well before red dust, clean, inspect, and reassemble with lube. Hopefully no wear to the shaft. If any wear on the pulley, replace it. Do not skimp on this. Find a maintenance interval that works for you. If you are doing this yourself, you know the quality of workmanship accomplished. If paying someone, ensure they are willing to correctly accomplish the work, AND are willing to apply lubricant on reassembly.
Are you saying this should be done on every machine with the belt drive? Just susceptible machines? If so, which ones?
Are you also suggesting that once this is done properly, the owner can stop being concerned about it?
Thank you for your knowledgeable input. I find it valuable.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Originally Posted by askitee
My responses in bold in your quoted message
Excellent. Thank you.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by UtahPete
The majority seem to think, like you, that downshifting has no bearing on the front pulley red dust issue. So, I'm inclined to think that's a myth.
Does anyone know what causes the problem, which doesn't appear to be limited to just certain models or years?
You will notice that when downshifting manually or upshifting the good ole computer does a quick RPM match and it's a fairly uneventful and smooth process, that is IF you are NOT manually manipulating the throttle at the same time.
The only way we will know the cause for sure is if someone from Can-Am speaks out or some metallurgist and engineers get involved. My bet goes to we will still be typing about this five years from now.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by EdMat
You will notice that when downshifting manually or upshifting the good ole computer does a quick RPM match and it's a fairly uneventful and smooth process, that is IF you are NOT manually manipulating the throttle at the same time.
The only way we will know the cause for sure is if someone from Can-Am speaks out or some metallurgist and engineers get involved. My bet goes to we will still be typing about this five years from now.
No need for a reply from BRP. Since the spline is not tapered or pinched tight, there is micro movement under extreme pressure. That induces the conditions for fretting corrosion. The oxides worn from the pulley are extremely hard and propagate additional wear.
Straight spline joints require lubricant. Straight spline joints in many cases unless flowed with wet lubricant, should be disassembled, cleaned, inspected, and if not worn beyond limits, reassembled with new lubricant, then reinspected at specified intervals.
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Very Active Member
Drive pulleys technically are a wear item, same as a countershaft sprocket. Simply prevent the wear.
Last edited by PMK; 02-07-2022 at 05:30 AM.
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Originally Posted by PMK
Lets not extend the requirement to all vehicles with belt drive, since some are designed differently than the Spyder.
Suggesting, have your Spyders pulleys removed, all splines cleaned and inspected, if not worn, reassemble with lubricant. Then reinspection / relube at selected intervals. Drive pulleys technically are a wear item, same as a countershaft sprocket. Simply prevent the wear.
I meant Spyders with belt drives, not any machines with belt drives. Sorry.
Do we yet know which model years are afflicted and why? Or, is it just one of those random quality control issues with parts or assembly?
2014 RTL Platinum
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pmk where is that in the service manual SIR
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