Dash lite: pick of engine, flashing "check Transmission" Sometimes rides ruff, but lite out - normal. This is riding season in Ohio, dealer backed up 2 months. A buddy referred me to a Truck/car repair and the mechanic read up that the Angle rotation GRPS sensor might be shot. He pulled it off in 3 minutes, did multimeter test had 1/3 of normal resistant. shot. Ordered part, took 7 weeks via CanAm Dealer and BRP HQ. Here's the rub; mechanic got busted for busting his Girl while drunk. Others in shop afraid to look at Spyder as Spyders are Martian vehicles. Via my 2008 shop manual, it's right there in plan view. Tried to find a you tube video, says after it's got to take to shop to get the computer to look at it. Then I'm back to the 2 month wait list.
Anyone got the straight scoop on this? Hear this sensor goes out on a lot of early Spyders.
Former Navy LT, Retired Chemical Dependency Therapist, Retired Widower, "Do, or do not, there is no try"... Jedi Master Yoda. Proud member of AA, PGR, and a Navy Shellback!
Dash lite: pick of engine, flashing "check Transmission" Sometimes rides ruff, but lite out - normal. This is riding season in Ohio, dealer backed up 2 months. A buddy referred me to a Truck/car repair and the mechanic read up that the Angle rotation GRPS sensor might be shot. He pulled it off in 3 minutes, did multimeter test had 1/3 of normal resistant. shot. Ordered part, took 7 weeks via CanAm Dealer and BRP HQ. Here's the rub; mechanic got busted for busting his Girl while drunk. Others in shop afraid to look at Spyder as Spyders are Martian vehicles. Via my 2008 shop manual, it's right there in plan view. Tried to find a you tube video, says after it's got to take to shop to get the computer to look at it. Then I'm back to the 2 month wait list.
Anyone got the straight scoop on this? Hear this sensor goes out on a lot of early Spyders.
I bought that same part for my 08 GS .... after swapping it out and putting in New one, that fixed the issue .... mine was located right by the Oil Filter cover .... and I didn't need a " BUDS " re-boot .... good luck ..... Mike
If you search these forums I posted a lot of info about that. You have to take of the front pulley (I also advise buying a new style white pulley and bolt that just came out). Basically: Take off the lower shock bolt nut. Start jacking up near the back of the bike on the frame. Go slow until the pressure on the bolt comes loose and you can pull it out. Then keep jacking and belt goes slack. That bolt on front pulley is TIGHT. I bought a cheap hammer drill 1/2" drill. It worked great, far faster - I have changed many pulleys & gearbox sensors). When you get the old sensor out you will see what garbage it is. Cheap plastic and even put together well. I have had 3 front pulleys and 2 sensors on my own bikes fail so far, just installed the new white version, so far so good.
If you search these forums I posted a lot of info about that. You have to take of the front pulley (I also advise buying a new style white pulley and bolt that just came out). Basically: Take off the lower shock bolt nut. Start jacking up near the back of the bike on the frame. Go slow until the pressure on the bolt comes loose and you can pull it out. Then keep jacking and belt goes slack. That bolt on front pulley is TIGHT. I bought a cheap hammer drill 1/2" drill. It worked great, far faster - I have changed many pulleys & gearbox sensors). When you get the old sensor out you will see what garbage it is. Cheap plastic and even put together well. I have had 3 front pulleys and 2 sensors on my own bikes fail so far, just installed the new white version, so far so good.
.... I don't remember removing my pulley .... there is an ARM and cable connection that has to be moved so you can wiggle the GPS off, but that's it ..... and the rear shock bolt .... why, ? ... it's not near the GPS ..... good luck .... Mike
I changed mine out without removing the front pulley. It takes a bit of wiggling, but it can be done. As BlueKnight mentioned, it will be easier of you disconnect the reverse cable It fixed my issue. 2008 GS SM5.
I tore all the Tupperware off, I saw the old sensor, 2 bolts holding it on and a wire connector coming out of the bottom, like pic in SE5 Shop manual picture. The fwd bolt and wire connector I can get to...the after bolt is covered/behind the small front sprocket. Felt gap with fingers, looks like a pinky finger size gap between the sensor and the sprocket - seems no way to get off without taking front sprocket OFF. ???
BUT...When the above mentioned mechanic pulled off sensor in JUST A FEW minutes, he didn't take off belt or the front sprocket. This is the SE5 semi auto version. how the heck did he get it out? (of course between jail and now drug rehab, he's "not available" to ask)
Former Navy LT, Retired Chemical Dependency Therapist, Retired Widower, "Do, or do not, there is no try"... Jedi Master Yoda. Proud member of AA, PGR, and a Navy Shellback!
I tore all the Tupperware off, I saw the old sensor, 2 bolts holding it on and a wire connector coming out of the bottom, like pic in SE5 Shop manual picture. The fwd bolt and wire connector I can get to...the after bolt is covered/behind the small front sprocket. Felt gap with fingers, looks like a pinky finger size gap between the sensor and the sprocket - seems no way to get off without taking front sprocket OFF. ???
BUT...When the above mentioned mechanic pulled off sensor in JUST A FEW minutes, he didn't take off belt or the front sprocket. This is the SE5 semi auto version. how the heck did he get it out? (of course between jail and now drug rehab, he's "not available" to ask)
Pay NO attention to posts 5 & 6 ..... go immediately to your Dealer .... all the best .... Mike
Well I can say I am not familiar with the SE5 as I own an SM5. And yes, I was able to replace mine without removing the front sprocket. There is just enough space to get a torx bit on the bolt closest to the sprocket.