Aux LED mod question

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Hello all, new member here with a question. I am going to install LED aux lights on my 900. Before the Ryker I had a BMW R1200RT which had a CANBUS system. I installed a module into that system that allowed accessories to be attached and through a laptop I could adjust the voltage supplied to the lights in both the low beam and the high beam conditions. So I had it set to run the lights at 30% power on low beam for DRLs and 100% on high beam for extra light in dark places. Worked really well although expensive.

Now I know the Ryker isn’t nearly as sophisticated as a BMW CANBUS system so I doubt there is a programmable module that can integrate into the Ryker’s electric system so I’m wondering how to do this. Resistors? Even the wiring schematic eludes me. Any help would be appreciated.

I don’t like the idea of a separate switch for the lights as I want them integrated into the high low beam switch. TIA.

[RICZ]

Use a fuse block that is energized only with the ignition on. Hook up your lights and electrical accessories to that. Lights will be on when ignition is on. Did that on my bike to bypass the fussy electronics.

[Slider]

Use a fuse block that is energized only with the ignition on. Hook up your lights and electrical accessories to that. Lights will be on when ignition is on. Did that on my bike to bypass the fussy electronics.

Thanks for that, but how do I reduce the voltage to the lights when operating as DRLs connected to the low beam circuit?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks for that, but how do I reduce the voltage to the lights when operating as DRLs connected to the low beam circuit?

A rheostat ???? .... Mike

[RICZ]

Thanks for that, but how do I reduce the voltage to the lights when operating as DRLs connected to the low beam circuit?

Are you installing the Slingmods Arc fog/DRL lights? If so, no voltage drop needed as far as I know. My F3L was prewired for fog lights and I assume both functions to be 12 volt each.

[Slider]

Are you installing the Slingmods Arc fog/DRL lights? If so, no voltage drop needed as far as I know. My F3L was prewired for fog lights and I assume both functions to be 12 volt each.

No these are a set of LEDs I got from Ali Express. They just have 2 wires. I'm assuming that the Ryker headlights have 2 elements, high and low, and each operate independantly, so I'm going to try to feed the LEDs from both circuits and put a resistor in line with the low beam circuit.

Only problem is I haven't the foggiest idea which kind or value of resistor to use.

[spyderwing57]

From my Goldwing days I was told to put ALL accessories on it's own circuit. Not to hook up to existing essential circuits. If you lose LEDS oh well. You don't want to lose your head lights because your aux lighting LEDS shorted out. IMHO.

[UtahPete]

He is asking specifically about the Ryker headlight wiring and how to use it to control auxiliary lighting.

Generic auxiliary LED lighting advice is probably NOT helpful.

I don't know for sure but I'm thinking what the OP wants to achieve is not going to be as simple as a rheostat. And, as others have pointed out, some sort of electronic isolation from the OEM lighting circuit is likely needed to protect that circuit.

[Slider]

After some research I have a plan. Going to feed off the low beam circuit through an adjustable DC voltage reducer set at the minimum voltage that the LEDs need (7V) to the lights and then straight off the High beam circuit where they will get all 12V. The amp draw at 12V is only 2.5Amps (30W/12V) so i figure the existing circuit will handle that. If it doesn't and the fuse blows, I will wire the lights through a relay tapping off the low/high switch but drawing power straight from the battery.

Wish me luck!

[Geo333]

Swapped out my yellow headlight bulbs with LEDs from Lamonster garage. Also, added Lamonster fog lights. The fog lights are on continually when the ignition is on. I have had no problems with that set up, for the two years that I have them on my bike.

[Slider]

Update on this project. I wired everything as I saw fit and when I turned the engine on to have power to the headlights, my little voltage regulator began to smoke and I shut it down. I didn't even turn the high beams on. I tested the wiring design on the bench (I had to in order to adjust the VRs) and it worked well, except for having both 7V and 12V coming into the lights at the same time). I am quite sure that having the positive from the low coming out of the Voltage Regulator and the positive from the high both being connected to the positive input of the light caused a feedback through the high beam circuit and overloaded the VR circuitry. In order for my idea to work, the lights need two independent inputs, one for low beam and one for high.

So I abandoned my idea of having low and high coming from the aux lights and just wired them into the high beam circuit, so they are off in low and full on in high. All is well. I will try to post pics of them on at night later.