When I added the trailer hitch i also encountered problems with the screw in push pins. The fix I came up with was to use an electrical ring terminal bent to 90 degrees and placed under the pin. then next time I can use long nose pliers to remove the pin.
Lisle makes them too. Lisle 35260 Plastic Fastener Remover or, Lisle 42420 Push Pin Plier (30 Degree). Visit the Lisle store on Amazon or, your local indy auto parts store.
You sir, are a genius! I would warn you to keep a close eye on those things, though. I've had a couple of them come loose and fall out. It seems that after a couple of uses, they don't grab up well. To the other folks that replied here, the pliers will not work on these pins; they are recessed too deeply in the body panels. There was a post here somewhere from last year when the 2020 first came out from one of our sponsoring vendors (Spyderpops, I think) that they were looking to offer a replacement pin. I haven't seen any on the market yet though.
They changed the style push pin in the new bikes? WTH No more little slots on both sides to grab the pin?
On the new 2020 and up RT and F3, they went to a different pin in some locations. Mainly the side saddlebag area. These pins have a Philips head tip that is mind-bendingly frustrating. You have to push hard enough to keep from stripping the head while at the same time pushing so lightly that the plastic threads have a snowballs chance of unscrewing without stripping. After you manage to get the screw to back out about a quarter inch, you then have to pull out the body like the other style of push pin. But wait, they are recessed into round holes where the body of the pin is about an inch deep into a round area not much larger diameter than the pins' body, so no pliers will work. Oh, and these fasteners are about an inch long.
There is no extraction tool i know of that will remove these frustrating pins. I left all of mine out. They dont seem to do much anyway, and my rear panels are still very secure.
On the new 2020 and up RT and F3, they went to a different pin in some locations. Mainly the side saddlebag area. These pins have a Philips head tip that is mind-bendingly frustrating. You have to push hard enough to keep from stripping the head while at the same time pushing so lightly that the plastic threads have a snowballs chance of unscrewing without stripping. After you manage to get the screw to back out about a quarter inch, you then have to pull out the body like the other style of push pin. But wait, they are recessed into round holes where the body of the pin is about an inch deep into a round area not much larger diameter than the pins' body, so no pliers will work. Oh, and these fasteners are about an inch long.
Thanks for your explanation .... now it makes more sense about the bent ring terminals ..... Mike
So why the terminals if the Push/screw pins have threads? A question of learning to apply the right kind of pressure the right way or maybe badly installed and over torqued.
So why the terminals if the Push/screw pins have threads? A question of learning to apply the right kind of pressure the right way or maybe badly installed and over torqued.
Thats the kicker, when trying to remove these pins if you use too much inward pressure the pins simply just rotate place. They are quite finicky. Some users have replaced the plastic pin part with a metal screw and reported that they work really well. Using the search function on here might help locate the thread.
So why the terminals if the Push/screw pins have threads? A question of learning to apply the right kind of pressure the right way or maybe badly installed and over torqued.
Cos to get the pins out without stripping the placcy threads or the placcy phillips head, you hafta PUSH IN with the Phillips head screw driver at the same time as PULLING OUT (or UP! Get your minds outta the gutter! ) and that's sorta hard to do!!
With the terminals fitted under the placcy screw heads & their 'tails' bent up, the operator of the Phillips head screwdriver can use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to grab the bent up 'tail' end of the terminal (that's down IN the recess for the push/screw pin a bit, so not protruding beyond the panel work! ) and use THAT to do the PULL OUT/UP bit while still being able to PUSH IN with the screw driver to avoid gouging the usefulness outta the fragile placcy Phillips head socket on the push/screw pin's head &/or stripping the ultra fine & fragile placcy thread on the screw!
Sure, it takes a bit of co-ordination, but it can also save a whooole lotta frustration! Or you can swap those stupid excuses for push/screw pins & replace them with something a bit more 'user friendly'! But you've STILL gotta get the slippery little sucka's outta there the first time to either fit the terminals &/or replace the push/screw pins!
Cos to get the pins out without stripping the placcy threads or the placcy phillips head, you hafta PUSH IN with the Phillips head screw driver at the same time as PULLING OUT (or UP! Get your minds outta the gutter! ) and that's sorta hard to do!!
With the terminals fitted under the placcy screw heads & their 'tails' bent up, the operator of the Phillips head screwdriver can use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to grab the bent up 'tail' end of the terminal (that's down IN the recess for the push/screw pin a bit, so not protruding beyond the panel work! ) and use THAT to do the PULL OUT/UP bit while still being able to PUSH IN with the screw driver to avoid gouging the usefulness outta the fragile placcy Phillips head socket on the push/screw pin's head &/or stripping the ultra fine & fragile placcy thread on the screw!
Sure, it takes a bit of co-ordination, but it can also save a whooole lotta frustration! Or you can swap those stupid excuses for push/screw pins & replace them with something a bit more 'user friendly'! But you've STILL gotta get the slippery little sucka's outta there the first time to either fit the terminals &/or replace the push/screw pins!
.... I wonder if the OLD style push pins would fit that hole ???? ... they had issues of their own but certainly didn't cause a serious removal problem ....JMHO .... Mike
I just marvel at the critiques from those that haven't yet worked with them. I have a couple pairs of hemostats that helped with mine, but agree that a better pin solution is past due. The ring terminals is definitely a great idea to assist with the present poor design, but putting these marginal fasteners down a hole seems to be an assembly-only advantage. Still, where I used to work better solutions were often submitted (fully documented and cost-analized) by field and tech support only to be shot down or made even worse by manufacture engineers that were clueless.
"Love 'em all.... Let GOD sort 'em out!"
2021 RTL Dark Chalk Metallic with comfort seat
1978 GL1000 w/'75 engine show bike
1976 RD400c
Ya gotta love when the bean counters are in agreement with the engineer to save 2 cents by going with the plastic version over the 6 cent bolt & rivnut or nutsert…
I just marvel at the critiques from those that haven't yet worked with them. I have a couple pairs of hemostats that helped with mine, but agree that a better pin solution is past due. The ring terminals is definitely a great idea to assist with the present poor design, but putting these marginal fasteners down a hole seems to be an assembly-only advantage. Still, where I used to work better solutions were often submitted (fully documented and cost-analized) by field and tech support only to be shot down or made even worse by manufacture engineers that were clueless.
I had to drill mine out and then bought new ones at a $1.82 a piece but used stainless steel screws instead of the plastic screws. They screw out ok now if you have to remove them again.
I've just had my first encounter with the famous plastic rivets around the saddlebags.
At first, I wondered what all the fuss was about as the first 3 came out easily. But then I tried the fourth!!
It just turned round and round, so I ended up drilling a tiny hole in the centre pin and screwing a small metal woodscrew into it (to about 1/4" depth). That gripped really well so then I was able to simply grab the woodscrew in some long nose pliers and pull everything out just fine (no turning needed).
That worked so well that I think I will just pre-drill a similar hole in all the centre pins and put them back in place like that. If any should prove a problem in the future, I believe the same trick will work (though I might also use cbredneck's tip too, for backup).
I do hope the person who invented these particular rivets - AND the people who specified them for use on the Spyder - have been fired!
Fix for buried push pins on new body styles
[img]https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/maps/map.prov.png?states=[img]https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/maps/map.prov.png?states=BC.ABhttps://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/maps/map.prov.png?states
Reply With Quote
WTH No more little slots on both sides to grab the pin?
Originally Posted by Mikey
.
) and use THAT to do the PULL OUT/UP bit while still being able to PUSH IN with the screw driver to avoid gouging the usefulness outta the fragile placcy Phillips head socket on the push/screw pin's head &/or stripping the ultra fine & fragile placcy thread on the screw! 
Or you can swap those stupid excuses for push/screw pins & replace them with something a bit more 'user friendly'! 
.... I wonder if the OLD style push pins would fit that hole ???? ... they had issues of their own but certainly didn't cause a serious removal problem ....JMHO .... Mike 
