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21 oil change question
So the wife is on task for supplies for the oil change. She's put 1k mile on it this month. I know it doesn't need changed yet but it can't hurt. The stealerships both say they can order the filter and both said that it is different from the 20 f3s. Im not thinking the O rings need changed every time, but I will at the warranty changes.
So what's up with the filter? Can I use aftermarket and keep the warranty in tack?
As far as oil, just meet the api requirements?
Why do dealerships charge $5 for a .50cent O ring?
Im don't asking questions for now, and I'm done ranting also. Thanks for listening.
Keith
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Originally Posted by Hoginedgewood
So the wife is on task for supplies for the oil change. She's put 1k mile on it this month. I know it doesn't need changed yet but it can't hurt. The stealerships both say they can order the filter and both said that it is different from the 20 f3s. Im not thinking the O rings need changed every time, but I will at the warranty changes.
So what's up with the filter? Can I use aftermarket and keep the warranty in tack?
As far as oil, just meet the api requirements?
Why do dealerships charge $5 for a .50cent O ring?
Im don't asking questions for now, and I'm done ranting also. Thanks for listening.
Keith
According to this, it uses the same filter as my '16 F3 and all the others with 1330 motors. Order from BajaRon.....vendor on this forum and long time supplier of quality products.
https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemp...ne-lubrication
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I personally wouldn't and didn't waste the time or money on a oil and filter change before the recommended 3,000 mile service. We're not dealing a 1941 Ford, Chevy or Cadillac. The Rotax 1330 ACE engine is light years beyond those relics in terms of design, metallurgy, manufacturing tolerances and accuracy.
The Magnusson Moss Warranty Act protects an owner from having to use OEM parts in vehicle service.
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Originally Posted by Hoginedgewood
So the wife is on task for supplies for the oil change. She's put 1k mile on it this month. I know it doesn't need changed yet but it can't hurt.
It doesn't hurt, and it might make you feel better. But you are wasting your money. It is not necessary and provides no functional benefit. Lubricants, assembly processes and factory break-in procedures have come a long way over the years.
The stealerships both say they can order the filter and both said that it is different from the 20 f3s.
All 1330 ACE motors, since their inception in 2014, take the same filter. Not sure what the dealership is talking about. BRP does change part numbers when they change suppliers. I haven't checked but maybe this is the case here.
Im not thinking the O rings need changed every time, but I will at the warranty changes.
It is not necessary to change the O-Rings or drain plug washers with every service. But I highly recommend having spares for everything incase you find one damaged.
So what's up with the filter? Can I use aftermarket and keep the warranty in tack?
Yes, absolutely.
As far as oil, just meet the api requirements?
API and JASO. Meet or exceed both requirements and your warranty is preserved.
Why do dealerships charge $5 for a .50cent O ring?
This must be a rhetorical question. Everyone knows the answer. 'Because they can!'
Im don't asking questions for now, and I'm done ranting also. Thanks for listening.
Keith
There are definitely a good number of alternatives to having the dealership perform this service. Many take advantage of these and are quite satisfied with not only the results, but the cost savings. It is also likely that you will do a better job than the dealership. For one thing. Dealerships drain your oil cold. They don't have time to heat the oil up. You can't blame them for this. On the other hand, you can do it correctly by riding for a few miles and then doing the oil change. Draining the oil hot and 'Mixed' removes a great deal more contaminates than will a cold oil change.
Many contaminants tend to settle out as the oil cools. Cold oil drains a lot slower than warm oil. This means leaving a fair amount of contaminants laying on the bottom of whatever cavity they are in. You can't get the oil out of every sump, low spot or cavity. Running the engine and heating the oil stirs up and suspends these contaminants. They are much more likely to flow out with the faster moving oil this way.
Last edited by BajaRon; 05-15-2021 at 04:46 PM.
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Originally Posted by JayBros
I personally wouldn't and didn't waste the time or money on a oil and filter change before the recommended 3,000 mile service. We're not dealing a 1941 Ford, Chevy or Cadillac. The Rotax 1330 ACE engine is light years beyond those relics in terms of design, metallurgy, manufacturing tolerances and accuracy.
The Magnusson Moss Warranty Act protects an owner from having to use OEM parts in vehicle service.
I believe the first oil change is when more metal and aluminum float through the system. If im wrong oh well. I will follow mfg recommend oil change after this.
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Originally Posted by ulflyer
Couldn't agree more!!https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...rs-amp-Helmets
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Originally Posted by JayBros
I personally wouldn't and didn't waste the time or money on a oil and filter change before the recommended 3,000 mile service. We're not dealing a 1941 Ford, Chevy or Cadillac. The Rotax 1330 ACE engine is light years beyond those relics in terms of design, metallurgy, manufacturing tolerances and accuracy.
The Magnusson Moss Warranty Act protects an owner from having to use OEM parts in vehicle service.
unless it's a John Deere. 3k & save your receipts. Then 12K & ditto.
Originally Posted by Hoginedgewood
I believe the first oil change is when more metal and aluminum float through the system. If im wrong oh well. I will follow mfg recommend oil change after this.
This ain't your grandad's dodge, hence the 9,300 mile interval. Probably not done shaving & rings not set @ 1K.
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