Should I torque?

[SPYDERJERRY1]

Getting ready to change oil and filter. (1st change) I've got 3,300 miles on 2020 Spyder RT Limited. Do I really need to torque the drain plugs when reinstalling? I don't have torque wrench. What reasonable price one is recommended if I need one?

[safecracker]

On my v-twin torque specs is 13lbs. Harbor Freight has them. What you do not want to do is over tighten. Bad things can happen.

[eschmid2]

My opinion is you should use a torque wrench until you have sufficient experience to be able to properly torque without one (experienced mechanics only and maybe not even then depending on the critically of the joint). The implications for the oil drain plug not being proper are huge to either over tighten and deform something so a leak is present or to under tighten and have the plug vibrate loose and fall out. Loosing all your oil while driving would be a very bad experience. So for the price of a torque wrench versus the potential consequences - I would definitely use a torque wrench. I did some research on this when I was deciding some time ago and for me I balance price and good reviews (accuracy and build quality). I landed on brand Tekton and a typical torque wrench is about 45 bucks. The company is in the US (Michigan) and has a lifetime warranty and for that price range for me was a great value for the work I do. I do not typically need to measure torque angle - that would require a high end snap-on tool costing hundreds. Home Depot carries Tekton as does Amazon but I try not to buy on Amazon too much as sometimes you get returned items, used items, second hand items even though they are listed as new. Hope this is helpful!

[pidjones]

A warning that on most inexpensive click-type torque wrenches the adjustment spool FIRST touching the spring (it is obvious - you will feel it) is the lowest the wrench will do. Usually the 3/8 wrenches start at 5 ft lbs. Keep this in mind when setting it and ALWAYS back off all the way when done using it.

BTW, I tested a 1/2, 3/8, and 1/4 inch drive Harbor Freight wrench in our metrology lab at work and they all three came out within the specs our company permitted and just as good as Snap-on and Craftsman wrenches from the factory. But, we just built cyclotrons there so maybe not the accuracy some would want.

[SPYDERJERRY1]

Thanks for the replies.

[Hoginedgewood]

I believe a beam vs a click is better for a novice. I recommend testing the wrench in the vice first to get aquatinted with the end result before finding out you didn't feel the "click" especially on lower settings.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7...ABEgI-vfD_BwE&

[K80Shooter]

I have this one,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have one of theirs in 1/4" and 1/2" they seem to be very good.

Like Pidjones said, make sure to back them back off after you finish using them.

[BajaRon]

I highly recommend using a torque wrench for higher torque value connections. But I always cringe when I hear someone torqueing a low tension component. Especially when it comes to a steel thread into an aluminum thread (which is the case with the engine drain plug). Add to this that torque wrenches, especially the lower priced ones, are notorious for being less than accurate within 20% of their minimum setting, and 10% of their max limit. You should always try to stay within the middle 75~80% values to increase accuracy. They will tend to over torque at the lower end, and under torque at the upper end. It's just the nature of the beast.

For drain plugs, I personally recommend using a stubby, 3/8" ratchet. And just snug it up. You get great feel with this method (torque wrenches give you no feel at all. A torque wrench can strip a thread with ease giving no warning at all). I prefer the articulating version of the stubby. It gives you additional versatility. But the standard version also works well.

Stubby.jpg

As already mentioned, the biggest issue with drain plugs is getting them too tight. Again, especially with a steel thread into an aluminum thread. I have never heard of a drain plug falling out (other than for stripped threads). But I've had a lot of customers call me lamenting a stripped drain plug. Drain plugs are a Goldie Locks component. You don't want them too loose, but too tight can be just as bad, or worse. A too loose plug may drip a bit of oil and is easily corrected. Too tight, and you've got some serious problems.

People have the feeling that if tight is good, tighter is better. Don't go that way with your drain plugs. Just snug is more than sufficient and will greatly ease removal next time. This is why so many end up stripping out the wrench connection on the OEM plugs. They are just too tight. I am still running the OEM drain plugs that came on my 2008 Spyder. Zero issues other than the 1st plug removal. They were too tight from the factory. I'm assuming they torqued them to the recommended spec at the time.

My opinion only. It's your ride. You should do what you think best.

[ButterSmooth]

I highly recommend using a torque wrench for higher torque value connections. But I always cringe when I hear someone torqueing a low tension component. Especially when it comes to a steel thread into an aluminum thread (which is the case with the engine drain plug). Add to this that torque wrenches, especially the lower priced ones, are notorious for being less than accurate within 20% of their minimum setting, and 10% of their max limit. You should always try to stay within the middle 75~80% values to increase accuracy. They will tend to over torque at the lower end, and under torque at the upper end. It's just the nature of the beast.

For drain plugs, I personally recommend using a stubby, 3/8" ratchet. And just snug it up. You get great feel with this method (torque wrenches give you no feel at all. A torque wrench can strip a thread with ease giving no warning at all). I prefer the articulating version of the stubby. It gives you additional versatility. But the standard version also works well.

Stubby.jpg

As already mentioned, the biggest issue with drain plugs is getting them too tight. Again, especially with a steel thread into an aluminum thread. I have never heard of a drain plug falling out (other than for stripped threads). But I've had a lot of customers call me lamenting a stripped drain plug. Drain plugs are a Goldie Locks component. You don't want them too loose, but too tight can be just as bad, or worse. A too loose plug may drip a bit of oil and is easily corrected. Too tight, and you've got some serious problems.

People have the feeling that if tight is good, tighter is better. Don't go that way with your drain plugs. Just snug is more than sufficient and will greatly ease removal next time. This is why so many end up stripping out the wrench connection on the OEM plugs. They are just too tight. I am still running the OEM drain plugs that came on my 2008 Spyder. Zero issues other than the 1st plug removal. They were too tight from the factory. I'm assuming they torqued them to the recommended spec at the time.

My opinion only. It's your ride. You should do what you think best.

Add to that the way they were torqued at the factory -- dry, clean threads. They will never be dry again and that requires a significant reduction (like 30%) in the torque reading (thanks PMK). Also, with the aluminum washers they tend to grab and release if dry making an accurate torque reading very difficult. Factory spec with lubricated threads/washers are a formula for overstressed (if not stripped) threads. Personally, I like a small dab of anti-seize on threads and sealing washer and tool tight with no measurement. I don't want to experience the factory-tight loosening experience again. YMMV

[SPYDERJERRY1]

Thank you BajaRon, stubby ratchet sounds about right for me.

[SPYDERJERRY1]

Thanks for the replies.

Thanks again everyone for the advice.

[SPYDERJERRY1]

Getting ready to change oil and filter. (1st change) I've got 3,300 miles on 2020 Spyder RT Limited. Do I really need to torque the drain plugs when reinstalling? I don't have torque wrench. What reasonable price one is recommended if I need one?

Wow! I finally got my 1st oil change done! I'm sore from laying on cement for hours! I watched a video telling that it was easy to remove the dust shield(?) that is held in place by 4 push pins. I've never dealt with those pins before. I just pulled the whole pin assembly out. 3 were easy, the 4th was the pin from hell! I haven't reinstalled the cover yet. I think I ruined the push pins. LOL I need to Jack bike up higher somehow next time. Also didn't use a torque wrench. I used Baja Ron's idea of small flex head ratchet. It worked out well. I hope it goes much quicker next time. Thanks everyone.

[Hoginedgewood]

Wow! I finally got my 1st oil change done! I'm sore from laying on cement for hours! I watched a video telling that it was easy to remove the dust shield(?) that is held in place by 4 push pins. I've never dealt with those pins before. I just pulled the whole pin assembly out. 3 were easy, the 4th was the pin from hell! I haven't reinstalled the cover yet. I think I ruined the push pins. LOL I need to Jack bike up higher somehow next time. Also didn't use a torque wrench. I used Baja Ron's idea of small flex head ratchet. It worked out well. I hope it goes much quicker next time. Thanks everyone.

These help release those for reuse.https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_5...ABEgJAHfD_BwE&