Titan Trailer - how do I load so the Spyder front end won't catch?

[kjweed]

I have a 10' ft Titan aluminum Trailer for my can am spyder that has a drive on ramp. But I hear that if you drive up the ramp the front end of the Spyder will catch. Is this true? if so how to a load my 2013 Spyder?

Thanks for any help

[Snoking1127]

There are two catch points to be considered about. The nose as you start up the ramp and the belly at the breakover point at the top of the ramp.

You got a lot more response on your FB page post. That trailer should not have an issue.

[Wmoater]

No problem loading on Titon, it’s a 6 foot ramp I assume. If it’s to steep get 3- 2x8 12inch blocks. Screw the blocks together. Make 2 of them. With the trailer attached to the truck pull forward so the rear tires of the truck are on blocks. With the rear of the truck up now the rear of the trailer is closer to ground creating a lower pitched ramp. Once loaded drive off blocks, pick up blocks and drive away. Easy piezzy!

[kjweed]

No problem loading on Titon, it’s a 6 foot ramp I assume. If it’s to steep get 3- 2x8 12inch blocks. Screw the blocks together. Make 2 of them. With the trailer attached to the truck pull forward so the rear tires of the truck are on blocks. With the rear of the truck up now the rear of the trailer is closer to ground creating a lower pitched ramp. Once loaded drive off blocks, pick up blocks and drive away. Easy piezzy!

This is my trailer

[old Timer]

No trailer, but a nice pile of Rocks and a Chain Link Fence

[Ex-Rocket]

No trailer, but a nice pile of Rocks and a Chain Link Fence

[Plarimer]

I find if you back a Spyder RT onto the trailer the nose will not catch.

[canamjhb]

Get two 2X10s five feet long. Put a long fastener through one end so it protrudes down an inch or two. Place the boards about half way up on your ramp with the fasteners protruding down between your ramp slots. The fasteners will prevent the boards from sliding out as you drive your Spyder up the boards. I think you will find there is no need to have a third "cheater ramp" for your rear wheel. I didn't. Good luck..... Jim

[Snoking1127]

This is my trailer

71688E07-4994-4A95-BD15-7D2FD3248524.jpg

Trailer has what appears to be 6' ramp and dropped axle. Should load easy with correct height ball on the tow vehicle.

[Hoginedgewood]

Loading at home could be different than unloading elsewhere, always go slow

[Eviltwin]

I have an Aluma ten foot trailer and I had to do two things to fix that issue. First was to get an adjustable mount so I could raise the ball up some which put the back of the trailer down a bit lower and create a shallower angle. The second was to carry a couple of 2x10 cutoffs and put them down underneath the edge of the ramp to raise it up a bit. Between these two measures, I don't have any issues with the front scraping anymore.

[Big F]

a real easy solution is to change out the hitch on the truck with one a bit higher and the real end of the trailer will lower!! they make a gazillion hitches to fit into your receiver.. it doesn't take much increase in heigth to lower the trailer back end.. and your trailer will still appear to be level going down the road..
BIG F

[Mazo EMS2]

Just consider all of the things you can do to reduce the ramp angle...ex: park the trailer wheels in a low spot, jack the front of the trailer up with the tongue jack, lay a 2x4 under the leading edge of the ramp, flip your drawbar to raise the ball if possible, park the vehicle wheels on a high spot, lengthen the ramp, if you live in town and there's an incline from driveway to street, park the trailer wheels in the lowest spot....you get the picture...It really doesn't take a lot to avoid the scrape...

[Mikey]

There's a will, there's a way!! Use your head think out side the box!!

[michrick]

I do the same as cananjhb I use 2 - 4’ 2x10’s when I load my RT or my wife’s ST onto my Triton AUT 1472 no issues. My Triton has a bi-fold gate so it’s around 4’ long it’s not as long as your gate so you should be good. Just take it slow

[kjweed]

Thanks for all of the suggestions

[Mazo EMS2]

Get two 2X10s five feet long. Put a long fastener through one end so it protrudes down an inch or two. Place the boards about half way up on your ramp with the fasteners protruding down between your ramp slots. The fasteners will prevent the boards from sliding out as you drive your Spyder up the boards. I think you will find there is no need to have a third "cheater ramp" for your rear wheel. I didn't. Good luck..... Jim

I've done something similar to this too

[Briorick]

a real easy solution is to change out the hitch on the truck with one a bit higher and the real end of the trailer will lower!! they make a gazillion hitches to fit into your receiver.. it doesn't take much increase in heigth to lower the trailer back end.. and your trailer will still appear to be level going down the road..
BIG F

Great advice!

When I bought my Spyder, I found this to be the easiest method of all......and I just happen to have different drop down ball mounts for various uses over the years. Even using 2 x 4's under the rear trailer edge helps to raise the rear trailer height just enough to keep the front of the Spyder from bottoming out when loading and unloading. Just have to get creative. It can be mind boggling for sure.

[SOlsenPHS]

I have an issue with my RT dragging when I load it on my trailer. The simplest solution for me is I put a block under the trailer jack and jack the tongue up with it still hitched to my truck, it changes the angle of the trailer ramp and nothing drags.