Guages are most accurate when used in the middle of their range. So a 120# tire guage is not what I prefer for the front tires. Wondering what works good for you.
This is what I use to check the pressure. Easy to adjust by either pumping in air or letting air out, and their is no air loss when disconnecting. I also used it for adjusting the air in the rear air bag. Of course if more than a pound or two is needed I use my air compressor, and then final adjustment with the hand pump.
This is what I use to check the pressure. Easy to adjust by either pumping in air or letting air out, and their is no air loss when disconnecting. I also used it for adjusting the air in the rear air bag. Of course if more than a pound or two is needed I use my air compressor, and then final adjustment with the hand pump.
This is what I use to check the pressure. Easy to adjust by either pumping in air or letting air out, and their is no air loss when disconnecting. I also used it for adjusting the air in the rear air bag. Of course if more than a pound or two is needed I use my air compressor, and then final adjustment with the hand pump.
I wondered if that would work on a tire. HD is proud of their stuff ($), but it's usually quality.
I use a pump similar to that on my shocks on my sleds, I find that when you have to unscrew the hose, lot's of times you will loose a little air! I can't picture how many times you would have to pump the thing to do a car tire size unit!! Think you would get very tired!!
I use a pump similar to that on my shocks on my sleds, I find that when you have to unscrew the hose, lot's of times you will loose a little air! I can't picture how many times you would have to pump the thing to do a car tire size unit!! Think you would get very tired!!
That's why I use my air compressor to get close. A lot of pumps to add air, but it's free exercise
2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL
Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people...... but our benefits don't?
Guages are most accurate when used in the middle of their range. So a 120# tire guage is not what I prefer for the front tires. Wondering what works good for you.
If you want a pencil-type gauge, look in the ATV section or the lawn mower section, you can usually find a low-pressure gauge that goes to 30 psi. If you want a round-dial type gauge, look in the same areas. Digital gauges seem to be the best, though.
Originally Posted by JayBros
While gauges may be most accurate in the middle of their ranges, a variety of gauges with similar or identical ranges from different manufacturers could have substantial variations, as could multiple gauges of the same model/style from the same manufacturer, although one would expect those from the same manufacturer to have smaller, variations but don't bet on it. The consumer has neither any idea of the calibration accuracy of individual gauges at the time of purchase nor the degradation of calibration over time and use.
And, when you do your comparison of several gauges, you may find that a few of them agree, but you still have no assurance that they are the 'accurate' ones. Even taking them to the tire store to compare against THEIR gauges is not much of an assurance. Where do you go to check accuracy?
Originally Posted by RICZ
This air gauge has a "no air loss" feature. I never here that frustrating FFFFT.
That is the gauge that I have settled on. I know that we have one in the Spyder, I think I also have one for my Suzuki.
Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
15 PSI will lead to cupped tires. do your homework.
And yet, according to at least two of the tire experts here, 16 PSI is perfect. If using 15 PSI is cupping YOUR tires, it might be a matter of gauge accuracy, tire brand and construction or simply a matter of riding style. I think there might be a bit of 'homework' on YOUR end, too.
While gauges may be most accurate in the middle of their ranges, a variety of gauges with similar or identical ranges from different manufacturers could have substantial variations, as could multiple gauges of the same model/style from the same manufacturer, although one would expect those from the same manufacturer to have smaller, variations but don't bet on it. The consumer has neither any idea of the calibration accuracy of individual gauges at the time of purchase nor the degradation of calibration over time and use. We're not dealing here with scientific laboratory accuracy either so, IMO, the safest bet is to do some research on gauges, select the one that meets the standard(s) one expects and dole out the $$. Again IMO, one wants a gauge that is easy to use and, most important, results in the least air escaping when pressing onto and removing the chuck from the valve stem. After that, one then has to only contend with the amount of air in the tires to get the ride the rider finds best for their preferred quality of ride. FWIW, I purchased the gauge in the picture from the dealership when I bought my Spyder. As a matter of practice, when I check tire pressure weekly or before a ride if the bike has not been used within a week of last pressure check, if the gauge reads below the pressure I routinely set I add more air than necessary and bleed it down with the gauge to the setting I prefer. I use a floor bicycle pump that is more than adequate for Spyder tires.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
I bought several fairly expensive gauges some years ago, intending to keep one with each vehicle. I also have a good one on the end of the air hose for my compressor. They are all the rotary dial analog type.
Recently, I had reason to compare the reading for trailer tires on two different gauges and found they were 6psi different. I then brought together all my gauges and found variations between several of them. Then I checked them against the TPMS on my truck. Eventually I was able to narrow it down to the two or three that were most inaccurate and sidelined them. I wish I had done this when I first bought them; I don't know if the 'bad' ones started out that way or became that way over time.
Rather unsettling to discover after all this time that I never really knew what pressure I had been running in my Spyder tires particularly.
Consumer Reports says digital gauges seem to be the most reliable type so I may get some of those.
While gauges may be most accurate in the middle of their ranges, a variety of gauges with similar or identical ranges from different manufacturers could have substantial variations, as could multiple gauges of the same model/style from the same manufacturer, although one would expect those from the same manufacturer to have smaller, variations but don't bet on it. The consumer has neither any idea of the calibration accuracy of individual gauges at the time of purchase nor the degradation of calibration over time and use. We're not dealing here with scientific laboratory accuracy either so, IMO, the safest bet is to do some research on gauges, select the one that meets the standard(s) one expects and dole out the $$. Again IMO, one wants a gauge that is easy to use and, most important, results in the least air escaping when pressing onto and removing the chuck from the valve stem. After that, one then has to only contend with the amount of air in the tires to get the ride the rider finds best for their preferred quality of ride. FWIW, I purchased the gauge in the picture from the dealership when I bought my Spyder. As a matter of practice, when I check tire pressure weekly or before a ride if the bike has not been used within a week of last pressure check, if the gauge reads below the pressure I routinely set I add more air than necessary and bleed it down with the gauge to the setting I prefer. I use a floor bicycle pump that is more than adequate for Spyder tires.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
Hey, that's the same gauge I use. The FFFFT= about 1/2 to 1/4 psi, depending on how fast you are. I've discovered hearing aids help with the process. LOL
Hey, that's the same gauge I use. The FFFFT= about 1/2 to 1/4 psi, depending on how fast you are. I've discovered hearing aids help with the process. LOL
I never tried using hearing aids to check air pressure. How does that work?
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
If my FOFO's are not lying to me, my tire pressures are constantly in flux due to many ambient influences. During a 200 mile Sunday ride over cold mountain passes and down into warm valleys and along twisty river gorges, my tire pressures constantly change. But, the tires ride well and hang onto the corners and there are no signs of them cupping. Buy quality car tires keep them properly inflated and that should be the least of your worries. Enjoy the ride. Bladder pressure ranks higher than tire pressure if you know what I mean. LOL
If my FOFO's are not lying to me, my tire pressures are constantly in flux due to many ambient influences. During a 200 mile Sunday ride over cold mountain passes and down into warm valleys and along twisty river gorges, my tire pressures constantly change. But, the tires ride well and hang onto the corners and there are no signs of them cupping. Buy quality car tires keep them properly inflated and that should be the least of your worries. Enjoy the ride. Bladder pressure ranks higher than tire pressure if you know what I mean. LOL
Originally Posted by pidjones
My GL1800 pressures changed constantly also.
So do mine - and so should EVERYONE's!
Part of the reason for starting your front tire pressures out at a close to equal 'cold start' pressure is so that they will remain fairly close to each other in pressure once the tires have warmed up to their optimal operating temp (which should see an increase of about 4psi after an hour's ride ) and then vary a little as you ride/drive on, simply because they DO heat up & cool down continuously in response to the changing conditions & demands placed upon them.... But once they've done that initial 'warm up', any ongoing pressure changes should be 'fairly slight' or even 'minor', so that they remain reasonably close to their initially achieved 'optimal operating temp'!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-03-2021 at 06:53 PM.
Accurately getting 15 psi into tires
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by PW2013STL
Same here PW! I use it on my Specialized E-bike as well. It does take a lot of pumps to increase a front tire by 2psi though.
) and then vary a little as you ride/drive on, simply because they DO heat up & cool down continuously in response to the changing conditions & demands placed upon them.... But once they've done that initial 'warm up', any ongoing pressure changes should be 'fairly slight' or even 'minor', so that they remain reasonably close to their initially achieved 'optimal operating temp'! 
