Once you "learn" how to remove and reinstall the tupperware, it takes no time at all. Well worth the time and effort to learn.
2020 Chalk, RT Limited, Dark and matching RT622 trailer and BRP hitch. BRP Drivers Backrest, Auxiliary Light, Garmin Zumo XT, GPS Support, RT Rear Panel and Travel Cover. Spyderpops LEDs on fenders, mirrors, saddlebags, top case and RT rear panel. Spyderpops Rock Guard. BajaRon Swaybar, Wolo Bad Boy horn, Freedom Windshield, Elka Shocks.
Man, I was sure the OP was going to complaint about the seat. I was so wrong! For some unknown reason I enjoy working on my Spyder.
2018 RT Ltd - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix
2018 RT Ltd Chrome - Champagne Metallic - Lake Stevens, Wa
(Champagne/Hooker) Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Vredestein and PPA Orb wheels on front and General out back, and driver backrest.
Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zumo XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer trike up North; and Hookie my winter trike down South.
(Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM driver's backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with voltmeter, dash cam, foam grips - Magic Mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.
The F3s are easier to work on than the RTs due to less tupperware and the 2020+ RTs are easier than the previous years since you don't have remove the mirrors for everything. Still, it's not too bad. I'm mechanically challenged and I've installed all sorts of stuff including the frunk liner which had me completely remove the front end. I don't enjoy working on it but it sure beats $100/hr in shop costs to install something that can take me a few hours.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
Spyders are no worse than newer pickup trucks. On most, it's easier to remove the body from the frame to work on any major engine components like turbos, heads, etc. When they are built a chassis comes down the assembly line with the engine, trans etc already installed. Then a body floats down from the sky and is joined to the frame.
We have a 2020 Edge ST Twin turbo 2.7L V6 and I could not even find a route through the engine compartment to get an extension cord to the battery maintainer, you can not see the ground anywhere in the engine bay. I ended up running out the corner of the hood. Maybe they lift the body off like the Ford PU to service it. I put an oil catch can on it the other day, luckily it was on the top of the engine.
2018 RT Ltd - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix
2018 RT Ltd Chrome - Champagne Metallic - Lake Stevens, Wa
(Champagne/Hooker) Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Vredestein and PPA Orb wheels on front and General out back, and driver backrest.
Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zumo XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer trike up North; and Hookie my winter trike down South.
(Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM driver's backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with voltmeter, dash cam, foam grips - Magic Mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.
Doesn't make a person want to rush out and buy one! BPR trying to force people to go to shop for work!
Welp I can say this with total confidence and not joking. Go work on an arctic cat, yamahas, Suzuki, Polaris or Honda! BRP has the best fit and finish of all off-road and on road vehicles! Take any of the above apart and the plastic looks like crap once it reassembled! There’s some great videos on YouTube how to take and remove all the plastic. It’s not difficult at all once you do it once.
“Born to Ride......Ride to Live....MOATER ON !
“Current ride: 2017 RT Limited”
1st Spyder here even if it is the wifes bike. 2020 Spyder RTL and I an dreading trying to learn how to change the oil and she is wanting to know if they make turbo kits for them.
I don’t know this guy from Adam but I think he has some of the best video explanation on YouTube. Look at his videos and watch, pause, perform, watch, pause and perform. Remove plastic, oil,remove frunk, swaybar, shock adjusters. He’s got it all covered. I’m guessing he’s a member and I don’t know it but I appreciate his time.
Yes, there is a lot of Tupperware to remove. There are a couple of things to keep in mind to minimize your frustration.
DON'T add one farkle* at a time. Make a list of all the farkles you wish to add. Think about it for a while before you actually purchase them. When you finally have all the stuff together that you want to add, remove the Tupperware ONE TIME, install the farkles, then re-install the Tupperware. To minimize the mental shock to your body, you might consider separating the job into "front half" and "rear half" of the Spyder.
However, like others have said, it's not all that bad for some of the routine stuff. You did not mention the year of your Spyder. If it's pre-2020, it seems like you have to remove the mirrors to do anything except check the air pressure in the tires. "Magic Mirrors" are a system of high-power magnets that replace the stock clips. Not exactly cheap, but worth EVERY penny. After that, it's just a few minutes with the right tools, and you can have the bike pretty much naked.
Can Am Spyders are not difficult to work on. Absolutely not difficult.
They do require additional time to gain access to items, but gaining access or closing bodypanels back up is certainly not difficult.
There is a slight bit of complexity, but not difficulty, based on Spyders having / sharing current automotive technology. There is nothing difficult about that, simply requires proper knowledge and tools.
Consider, replacing spark plugs on a Spyder, V Twin or three cylinder. Replacing the actual spark plug is certainly not difficult. The complexity to gain access does require more time to accomplish the task, but correctly done, there is nothing difficult to gain access. Yes, Can Am does state to use a certain thermally conductive paste on the threads. Again, nothing difficult about using that product, simply adds complexity and required knowledge to accomplish the task per the book.
pain in the a_ _
Originally Posted by UtahPete
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