pain in the a_ _

[Rednaxs60]

Coming from the Goldwing family, removing plastic to get at the work is the reality, just have to figure out how much to remove. Just did my first oil change, a two day affair - took my time. Look for a weather window as well, plan your maintenance around good riding weather. Recommend buying a plier to remove the plastic rivet/plastic push pins - have on order. Have a 2012 Suzuki V-Strom DL1000 as well. Wouldn't think there is a lot of plastic or items to remove to do maintenance, but there is - less than the Spyder, but still a lot to do. Engineers that do the design work should be made to work on their creations before letting these loose on the general public - might change a few things.

Read a design report from Volvo several years back. Volvo put together an all women design team to produce a new prototype. One of the innovations was for filling the windshield washer fluid. Instead of having to lift the hood, an external gas style flap was added to the exterior to fill the washer fluid. Small items like this can make a big difference especially nowadays when you lift the hood and may only see a sheet of black plastic.

Hang in there, it does get easier, and more accepting as you go.

Good luck

[Lew L]

.

Certainly gets easier over the years. But just a few points.

1. Magic Mirrors
2. Battery powered screwdriver with torx bits.
3. plastic baggies and tape to hold screws and taped to each removed panel.
4. left and right spaces for the tupperware while removed.
5. youtube is your friend.
6. BUT------- your closest friend is Spyderlovers.com

Lew L

[VitoNam]

There is a phrase from the classic air-cooled VW repair-procedural manual, How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive (aka VW Idiot Manual) written by John Muir, that goes like this: "Come to kindly terms with your ass for it bears you".

In other words, get to know your machine so you are familiar enough with it to basically understand it and, at least, perform maintenance yourself.

True words for anything anyone owns if one cares to take the time and are somewhat mechanically inclined. Repair manuals are readily available in paper or digital form for Spyders.

[gkamer]

*FARKLE

Fancy
Accessory,
Relatively
Kool,
Likely
Expensive

This cracked me up....Truer words were never spoken.

[azwiz]

Can Am Spyders are not difficult to work on. Absolutely not difficult.

They do require additional time to gain access to items, but gaining access or closing bodypanels back up is certainly not difficult.

There is a slight bit of complexity, but not difficulty, based on Spyders having / sharing current automotive technology. There is nothing difficult about that, simply requires proper knowledge and tools.

Consider, replacing spark plugs on a Spyder, V Twin or three cylinder. Replacing the actual spark plug is certainly not difficult. The complexity to gain access does require more time to accomplish the task, but correctly done, there is nothing difficult to gain access. Yes, Can Am does state to use a certain thermally conductive paste on the threads. Again, nothing difficult about using that product, simply adds complexity and required knowledge to accomplish the task per the book.

If you reread your post you will see what i'm talking about, (as an example) of course replacing plugs is no problem, but getting to them is a pain in the a_ _!!

[MONK]

Consider, replacing spark plugs on a Spyder, V Twin or three cylinder. Replacing the actual spark plug is certainly not difficult. The complexity to gain access does require more time to accomplish the task, but correctly done, there is nothing difficult to gain access. Yes, Can Am does state to use a certain thermally conductive paste on the threads. Again, nothing difficult about using that product, simply adds complexity and required knowledge to accomplish the task per the book.

I've owned (6) (yes, SIX) Pontiac Fieros over the last 20 years. Try replacing the front bank of spark plugs on the 2.8L V6. Per the shop manual, you have to REMOVE the motor (from the bottom of the car) to access them. Someone got smart years ago and made a tool to rock the motor forward but you still need to unbolt the motor/transaxle from the mounts.

(FWIW, (2) were the Iron Duke 4 banger, (3) were the 2.8L V6 and (1) was a supercharged 3800. )

[bigbadbrucie]

If you reread your post you will see what i'm talking about, (as an example) of course replacing plugs is no problem, but getting to them is a pain in the a_ _!!

I agree that it is a pain, however that’s nothing new in the automotive world. I had a Ford Mustang Grande that you had to loosen the motor mounts to be able to pull the rear sparkplug. This was many moons ago...too many moons, I don’t even remember the year of the ‘stang.

[PMK]

I've owned (6) (yes, SIX) Pontiac Fieros over the last 20 years. Try replacing the front bank of spark plugs on the 2.8L V6. Per the shop manual, you have to REMOVE the motor (from the bottom of the car) to access them. Someone got smart years ago and made a tool to rock the motor forward but you still need to unbolt the motor/transaxle from the mounts.

(FWIW, (2) were the Iron Duke 4 banger, (3) were the 2.8L V6 and (1) was a supercharged 3800. )

You brought up Fieros, not me. I specifically explained none of it is difficult on a Spyder, just takes longer gaining access, but nothing difficult there either. I guess each individual has their own inabilities, I laugh when I read posts about folks complaining how difficult checking the rear tire pressure is. Seriously, if that is more than your limit of skill, then everything would seem difficult.

Many owners need to simply step away from the toolbox...

[PMK]

If you reread your post you will see what i'm talking about, (as an example) of course replacing plugs is no problem, but getting to them is a pain in the a_ _!!

Well actually, the oem seat is the true PIA, but removing bodypanels is not bad at all and far less than a PIA in my book. Suppose much of it simply depends on a persons ability, experience, and understanding of working on mechanical stuff. Myself, I find the Spyder pretty simple and basic when compared to other vehicles I have dealt with. Guess that's just me though, as you seem to be opposite of me on what is a PIA.

All the best with whatever you attempt to do and again, all the best in upgrading to something better that you desire.

[PMK]

I agree that it is a pain, however that’s nothing new in the automotive world. I had a Ford Mustang Grande that you had to loosen the motor mounts to be able to pull the rear sparkplug. This was many moons ago...too many moons, I don’t even remember the year of the ‘stang.

Pain to do is something that can be quantified. If you start bleeding on the vehicle that is a real pain. Small cuts without blood on the vehicle is a small pain. Bruises, are not deemed a pain. Lost limbs, fingers, serious head injuries, or death, those are the ones evaluated on a case by case basis. Kind of depends on if it requires a visit to the ER, a visit to HR or a call to the coroner.

[Grandpot]

Buy an electric screw driver for those torx screws. Big time saver.

[Snoking1127]

\
Many owners need to simply step away from the toolbox...

I have stepped right up to it for about 6+ decades, doing the math, I will be 77 in June. In HS I had a 54 Plymouth 2 door with twin chrome plated Stromberg 97 carbs on a Zephyr intake manifold and Fenton headers(dual exhaust) on the 230 cu in flat head I-6. Swapped the third member for some 4.10 gears I found in an abandoned car. Built my own floor shift. Press down and forward was 1st gear, straight back was second and straight forward was 3rd. Press down and back was reverse. It was pretty quick. What is really funny is our 2020 Ford Edge ST with a 2.7L twin turbo V6 335HP is quicker than my 1967 SS/RS 350 295HP Camaro I had in the late 1960's, and the Edge weighs about 1200 lbs more.

[Chiefburg]

Yes, there is a lot of Tupperware to remove. There are a couple of things to keep in mind to minimize your frustration.

DON'T add one farkle* at a time. Make a list of all the farkles you wish to add. Think about it for a while before you actually purchase them. When you finally have all the stuff together that you want to add, remove the Tupperware ONE TIME, install the farkles, then re-install the Tupperware. To minimize the mental shock to your body, you might consider separating the job into "front half" and "rear half" of the Spyder.

However, like others have said, it's not all that bad for some of the routine stuff. You did not mention the year of your Spyder. If it's pre-2020, it seems like you have to remove the mirrors to do anything except check the air pressure in the tires. "Magic Mirrors" are a system of high-power magnets that replace the stock clips. Not exactly cheap, but worth EVERY penny. After that, it's just a few minutes with the right tools, and you can have the bike pretty much naked.

*FARKLE
Fancy
Accessory,
Relatively
Kool,
Likely
Expensive

.

What Steve said. It can seem daunting, but not that difficult. I added the sequential fender lights/turn signals, magic mirrors, and upgraded my headlights and fog lights to LED’s all in one swoop. As I put it back together I added Dzus fasteners to the two side panels that can come loose. Did it all in a few hours. Once you start working on things yourself you will see it’s pretty easy.

Jerry
2013 RTL

[Wmoater]

Back in the day ( I mean the early 80’s) we got our first set of snowmobiles and our death card Suzuki 250 3wheeler. It didn’t matter how new they were, one night out on the sleds you were tearing them apart getting ready for the next weekend. I can’t tell you how many times that old deer was ripped apart. The darn 3 wheeler always rolled over and needed fixed. Can’t believe we outlived that machine. (That’s why I’ll never own a trike again. Spyder forever) My dad said you want the toys you fix the toys. Not electrical but everything else we learned as we went. My dad had a huge snap on and craftsman box. (We never touched the snap on or lost our hands doing so!) when my kids came along I was the same way with them. Sleds, wheelers, SXS, Spyder and Jetskis today are darn reliable compared to the 80’s. Tools make a huge difference. I use a 12v dewalt extreme screwdriver with variable torque. I use snap on t30 power bit and a flank swivel 10mm and 6 and 10 inch extension. Add a 1/4 drive 4 mm too. I really like the lisle push pin needle nose pliers with the hooks to take the push pins out. Those 6 tools are not cheap but every piece of plastic can be taken off in 10 minutes with those. (ALWAYS WHEN ASSEMBLING HAND TURN THE FASTENERS AND THEN SET DEWALT AT 7 TO FINISH) Organize the pieces in a row as they come off 6 feet from the bike so you don’t step on them, on the correct side, and either cool whip or baggies with the fasteners in. Once you strip it down once, it’s easy. Get a simple wheelie chair and harbor freight dollie. I personally like working with the spyder on ramps so it’s higher at sitting level. Here is the picture of the pliers. I prefer these over the harbor freight type. You can go straight in even if they are recessed. The snapon 1/4 hex T30 driver is the one the one that snaps into the drill not that magnetic type with bits. I hate magnetic bits they always fall out or wobble.

[PMK]

I have stepped right up to it for about 6+ decades, doing the math, I will be 77 in June. In HS I had a 54 Plymouth 2 door with twin chrome plated Stromberg 97 carbs on a Zephyr intake manifold and Fenton headers(dual exhaust) on the 230 cu in flat head I-6. Swapped the third member for some 4.10 gears I found in an abandoned car. Built my own floor shift. Press down and forward was 1st gear, straight back was second and straight forward was 3rd. Press down and back was reverse. It was pretty quick. What is really funny is our 2020 Ford Edge ST with a 2.7L twin turbo V6 335HP is quicker than my 1967 SS/RS 350 295HP Camaro I had in the late 1960's, and the Edge weighs about 1200 lbs more.

Regardless, maybe not you, but many owners need to step away from the toolbox. Overconfidence, inability, being pennywise, and a few tools has gotten many Spyder owners into trouble.

[Pirate]

We were referring to the attacks on the OP. The discussion matter is fine. The thread could become locked if it goes south again.

Attacks on the OP? If I go to a Honda forum and bash Honda's I'm gonna get attacked. It was hardly an attack on the OP.

[JayBros]

I agree with PMK. If one is somewhat mechanically inclined and has the proper tools the work is not that difficult. If one is not so blessed, then, IMO, one needs to investigate the long-term costs of paying a quality dealership service department to do all the work and factor that cost into the price before making a purchase decision -- an exercise that is not rocket science.

[ARtraveler]

I agree with PMK. If one is somewhat mechanically inclined and has the proper tools the work is not that difficult. If one is not so blessed, then, IMO, one needs to investigate the long-term costs of paying a quality dealership service department to do all the work and factor that cost into the price before making a purchase decision -- an exercise that is not rocket science.

Good point. I am NOT mechanical. I have had to pay to have mine serviced over the years. Our last farkle/service trip a month ago...we dropped $2K with the place. Farkles and oil change service on the 20 and a rear tire and oil change service on the 19.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

If you reread your post you will see what i'm talking about, (as an example) of course replacing plugs is no problem, but getting to them is a pain in the a_ _!!

Yep, just like it was with the Chevy Vega until they put holes in the firewall so you could get to them, or the 1955 Ford F100 where the rear plug was so hard to get to it was almost never changed!