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  1. #26
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snoking1127 View Post
    So the warning about over tighten is mute?
    The short answer is 'No'. The warning is neither Mute nor Moot... (Wow! The conversations that we generate here can be very interesting!)

    The previous links with the trunnion bearings (which were hardened steel) could stand up to anything. Some feel that if 'Tight' is good, 'Tighter' is better. And a few believe that 'Killer, Ridiculous Tight' is better still. This was not a concern with the trunnion bearings.

    Mostly installers got used to this and some were crushing the aluminum spacers. This is just 1 reason we quickly switched to the current stainless steel version. The stainless steel spacers will take much more pressure than the aluminum. And plenty more than is necessary for a safe install. But still not the unlimited force as did the trunnion bearings. So, we left the 'Warning' about overtightening in the instructions.
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  2. #27
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    We ended up going with spherical bearing rod ends.
    Just out of curiosity, how are the rod ends anchored into the link? Threaded and locked, or push fit with pins through the link and shaft of the rod end. You really don't want the links to be adjustable in length which is what you would get with a threaded unlocked connection.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  3. #28
    Very Active Member Snoking1127's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    Just out of curiosity, how are the rod ends anchored into the link? Threaded and locked, or push fit with pins through the link and shaft of the rod end. You really don't want the links to be adjustable in length which is what you would get with a threaded unlocked connection.
    One rod end would need left hand threads for them to be adjustable. My guess, and Ron should be along to answer, is they are both right hand threaded with good loc-tight. No pinning visible.
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  4. #29
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    Just out of curiosity, how are the rod ends anchored into the link? Threaded and locked, or push fit with pins through the link and shaft of the rod end. You really don't want the links to be adjustable in length which is what you would get with a threaded unlocked connection.
    Funny you should ask!

    They are treaded with Red Locktite. So, they are essentially a 1 piece unit when you receive them.

    You are correct that they should never be adjusted. And I have gone to lengths to make sure you can't adjust them. But I've had customers call, insisting that my links are adjustable. When I told them that they were not adjustable (and you wouldn't want them to be adjustable), they told me I was wrong! Even after I explained that I assemble these links myself!

    Now I understand that I've been wrong before. But there is a pretty good chance that I have this one right! A few customers have insisted that they needed adjustable end links. I can never get them to tell me why. I suspect that someone has told them that they need to be adjusted and they themselves do not know why. I could sell adjustable end links. But it would only create issues for the buyer. I don't want people to find out the hard way. So, when I declined to sell these customers adjustable end links. Explaining to them why they don't want that feature, they said they would purchase adjustable links elsewhere.

    Quote Originally Posted by Snoking1127 View Post
    One rod end would need left hand threads for them to be adjustable. My guess, and Ron should be along to answer, is they are both right hand threaded with good loc-tight. No pinning visible.
    Correct. Threaded with Red Locktite.

    There are reasons for adjustable end links. For example, if you are racing Nascar where you only turn left, you want to bias your sway bar to better handle left hand turns. But we tend to want to turn both left and right. In this case, you DO NOT want to have anything other than both links identical length and the exact length that they are. Any adjustment from these dimensions will reduce the efficiency of the sway bar.

    And, you are correct again. Adjustable links have 1 Right Hand Thread and 1 Left Hand Thread. Both ends of my links have Right Hand Threads. So, even if you were to spin the center piece. It would just move one end out and the other end in. Leaving you with no change in length. You would have to disconnect one end of the link and just spin one rod end to get a physical length change. Too much and you would not have enough thread engagement to prevent failure.

    People can be strange, at times. I can only attribute it to a lack of understanding of the dynamics involved.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 04-28-2021 at 07:50 AM.
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  5. #30
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Thanks.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  6. #31
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Funny you should ask!

    They are treaded with Red Locktite. So, they are essentially a 1 piece unit when you receive them.

    You are correct that they should never be adjusted. And I have gone to lengths to make sure you can't adjust them. But I've had customers call, insisting that my links are adjustable. When I told them that they were not adjustable (and you wouldn't want them to be adjustable), they told me I was wrong! Even after I explained that I assemble these links myself!

    Now I understand that I've been wrong before. But there is a pretty good chance that I have this one right! A few customers have insisted that they needed adjustable end links. I can never get them to tell me why. I suspect that someone has told them that they need to be adjusted and they themselves do not know why. I could sell adjustable end links. But it would only create issues for the buyer. I don't want people to find out the hard way. So, when I declined to sell these customers adjustable end links. Explaining to them why they don't want that feature, they said they would purchase adjustable links elsewhere.



    Correct. Threaded with Red Locktite.

    There are reasons for adjustable end links. For example, if you are racing Nascar where you only turn left, you want to bias your sway bar to better handle left hand turns. But we tend to want to turn both left and right. In this case, you DO NOT want to have anything other than both links identical length and the exact length that they are. Any adjustment from these dimensions will reduce the efficiency of the sway bar.

    And, you are correct again. Adjustable links have 1 Right Hand Thread and 1 Left Hand Thread. Both ends of my links have Right Hand Threads. So, even if you were to spin the center piece. It would just move one end out and the other end in. Leaving you with no change in length. You would have to disconnect one end of the link and just spin one rod end to get a physical length change. Too much and you would not have enough thread engagement to prevent failure.

    People can be strange, at times. I can only attribute it to a lack of understanding of the dynamics involved.
    Agree that for the majority of owners, plug and play is best.
    If an owner were knowledgable enough to understand how to correctly set the chassis, even for going straight, then adjustable links would be a benefit if adjusted correctly. I would expect though, that a person that knows chassis setup would easily know how to defeat the Loctite, or would have the access and ability to build links capable of a zero / zero setting.

    There is far more to correctly establishing correct chassis setup than alter swaybar preloads.

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