High Beams on '15 RTL - does the ECU get involved?

[SpyderConvert]

I replied to a post recently that had a question about using high beams while riding. I said that Kisan Electronics had just recently developed a headlight modulator for the CanAm Spyder RT (certain years). I purchased one and installed it (including a daylight sensor) and once I buttoned everything back up, I backed it out of the garage and started it up. When I switched to high beams, the shutter went up giving me high beams, but not only did it not modulate the headlight, after about 3 seconds the shutter came back down for low beam! I contacted Kisan and we've been trading phone calls trying to correct the problem but, so far, nothing has worked. I just spoke with them again and they are going to contact the dealer that has installed one on a '15 RTL to determine what the problem might be. The two scenarios as of now (according to Kisan), are either a problem with the tryke's ECU or a defective unit. I explained to the gentleman that I did not think that the ECU had anything to do with it switching back to low beam, but he wants to hear back from the dealer to see what he finds out. If the unit is defective, they will send a replacement unit. My question is: does the ECU have anything to do with the headlights going from high beam to low beam?? I appreciate any input that you may provide.

[Jetfixer]

I used to own a 2015 RTL and now have a 2020 RTL. To answer your question, no, the ECU has nothing to do with the headlights. As you know, your RT has a shutter system. The bulb intensity is constant, only the shutter blocks the light from being "high beam". I would not use an aftermarket modulator system that has to pulse the shutter to simulate modulating low and high beam like a traditional dual filament bulb. You will certainly wear out the shutter actuator in record time. Starting with the 2020, Can Am went with LED headlights. They now have a separate high and low beam light assy.

[SpyderConvert]

Jetfixer, thanks for confirming my thoughts about the shutter! A modulator is not supposed to activate the shutter, it takes the power to the bulb from 100% to 17% a number of times per minute. Only dropping the power to 17% (and not cutting power completely) will have no impact on the life of the bulb. Anyway, I did a tupperwareectomy yesterday afternoon and removed the modulator. The shutter will now move up and stay up. Looks like it was the modulator unit that was bad.